17.5 class. Rb6 or b4.2?
01-13-2013, 11:39 AM
#61
And if you do bend one I'd like to see it.. It's just as strong as an 8th scale chassis and I don't hear ppl complain about those but I've seen plenty of broken b4 fronts and rb5 t plates.
Again your options are:
B4- tried and tested, hasn't lost a worlds, everyone and their mom owns one, plentiful parts, gets sloppy and parts quality is sub par. Has great steering, not
RB6- new kid, kit setup is great, super adjustable, strong, excellent quality, parts are readily available online. Has the steering like the AE but the traction like the old xxx-cr
01-13-2013, 11:44 AM
#62
Tech Master
I'm kinda surprised no one from the TLR camp has chimed in yet to profess their car as better than K or A. 
01-13-2013, 11:45 AM
#63
You aren't comparing apples to apples. Cmon, who are you trying to fool, me? or yourself? B4 with bigbores is NOT 249. If you take a CURRENT b4.1 and upgrade to BB shocks, hexes, etc... you are looking at a difference of about $50. Now.. with that being said, the B4.2 should be considerably better priced as all that stuff will be included, but nobody knows the price tag yet. I am guessing $299 or $319. And FYI, my track sells the RB6 new for LESS than $420.
It's already about complete. I have been in contact with matt from MIP and they are ready to release. They are already on test cars and should be close.
On our last layout, we had this double to triple setup that went right in front of the driverstand... The double comes towards you, and then an immediate 45 degree turn with maybe 3 foot runup to clear a triple. Anyway, if you didn't line it up just right, you go right off the track under the driver stand. I had bad landing on the double and tried to take off for the triple before the car was squared up, and sent the car DEAD SMACK, straight into one of the poles that hold up the driver stand. Tossed it with a 9.5 motor at full speed, and hit the car directly center on the front bumper. Car is 100% perfectly true still. A B4? Snapped chassis for sure.
You are a fanboi.. I get it.. You don't need to convince us that you love the B4 anymore than you already have, I understand. I myself have about 2 solid years of race time in the B4 platform, and almost that much across the RB5 and RB6... and the OVERALL cost across a reasonable timeline.. is LESS with Kyosho.
That being said.. The B4.x is still a GREAT car. There are guys in my area that absolutely dominate with it (a ton of AE team drivers up here) But it's not the car, its the driver.. and I have no doubt they would be even FASTER, in the 6 with some wheel and wrench time with it.
It's already about complete. I have been in contact with matt from MIP and they are ready to release. They are already on test cars and should be close.
On our last layout, we had this double to triple setup that went right in front of the driverstand... The double comes towards you, and then an immediate 45 degree turn with maybe 3 foot runup to clear a triple. Anyway, if you didn't line it up just right, you go right off the track under the driver stand. I had bad landing on the double and tried to take off for the triple before the car was squared up, and sent the car DEAD SMACK, straight into one of the poles that hold up the driver stand. Tossed it with a 9.5 motor at full speed, and hit the car directly center on the front bumper. Car is 100% perfectly true still. A B4? Snapped chassis for sure.
You are a fanboi.. I get it.. You don't need to convince us that you love the B4 anymore than you already have, I understand. I myself have about 2 solid years of race time in the B4 platform, and almost that much across the RB5 and RB6... and the OVERALL cost across a reasonable timeline.. is LESS with Kyosho.
That being said.. The B4.x is still a GREAT car. There are guys in my area that absolutely dominate with it (a ton of AE team drivers up here) But it's not the car, its the driver.. and I have no doubt they would be even FASTER, in the 6 with some wheel and wrench time with it.
I've crashed my B4 at my local track (large high bite clay) both on the track and off, I've landed it dead smack on the center of the chassis on quads, hit walls, etc etc. And only thing I've broken was a castor block and a a-arms. Chassis is still in perfect shape (minus scratches)........
I've owned an original B4 for many years and sold it last summer and the cost I put in to maintain it was still less then it would cost to buy an RB6.......
Ok so buy those fast guys an RB6 and prove it, or maybe there is a reason why they stick with their B4 because if they could really be so much better with the RB6 I would think they would have switched already.......
BLAH, BLAH, BLAH, BLAH
Here is my point, we can all sit here and argue either side of this til our keyboards fall apart. When it comes down to it its all a matter of personnel preference and opinion......... Either one can break, just because your RB6 didn't doesn't mean it wouldn't happen to someone else in a similar situation, just the same as my B4...........
01-13-2013, 12:41 PM
#65
okay so $150 difference, that makes both sides feel any better? lol
As for the steering rack on the B4s. the plastic bellcranks I never broke, had multiple b4s in various configurations throughout the years, but, the amount of play you got with the servo saver spring in comparison to the new alloy units was definitely different, a lot more steering I found.
As for the steering rack on the B4s. the plastic bellcranks I never broke, had multiple b4s in various configurations throughout the years, but, the amount of play you got with the servo saver spring in comparison to the new alloy units was definitely different, a lot more steering I found.
01-13-2013, 12:47 PM
#66
Ok a b4.2 at towers with super savings discount your looking at 250 shipped if priced at 299, so your still looking at 170 price difference at what you say you can get the rb6 for........
I've crashed my B4 at my local track (large high bite clay) both on the track and off, I've landed it dead smack on the center of the chassis on quads, hit walls, etc etc. And only thing I've broken was a castor block and a a-arms. Chassis is still in perfect shape (minus scratches)........
I've owned an original B4 for many years and sold it last summer and the cost I put in to maintain it was still less then it would cost to buy an RB6.......
Ok so buy those fast guys an RB6 and prove it, or maybe there is a reason why they stick with their B4 because if they could really be so much better with the RB6 I would think they would have switched already.......
BLAH, BLAH, BLAH, BLAH
Here is my point, we can all sit here and argue either side of this til our keyboards fall apart. When it comes down to it its all a matter of personnel preference and opinion......... Either one can break, just because your RB6 didn't doesn't mean it wouldn't happen to someone else in a similar situation, just the same as my B4...........
I've crashed my B4 at my local track (large high bite clay) both on the track and off, I've landed it dead smack on the center of the chassis on quads, hit walls, etc etc. And only thing I've broken was a castor block and a a-arms. Chassis is still in perfect shape (minus scratches)........
I've owned an original B4 for many years and sold it last summer and the cost I put in to maintain it was still less then it would cost to buy an RB6.......
Ok so buy those fast guys an RB6 and prove it, or maybe there is a reason why they stick with their B4 because if they could really be so much better with the RB6 I would think they would have switched already.......
BLAH, BLAH, BLAH, BLAH
Here is my point, we can all sit here and argue either side of this til our keyboards fall apart. When it comes down to it its all a matter of personnel preference and opinion......... Either one can break, just because your RB6 didn't doesn't mean it wouldn't happen to someone else in a similar situation, just the same as my B4...........
01-13-2013, 01:23 PM
#67
The Losi 22 is most innovative, durable and best performing car on the market today. Anybody with half a brain would know this.
01-13-2013, 01:24 PM
#68
Thanks guys for all the responses. It seems that b4.2 and rb6 are both top driving vehicles. And it also seems you can't really to too wrong going either way. However, I chose the rb6. The b4.2 seems to have all of the necessary upgrades. Just not feeling the std screws. But thx again.
01-13-2013, 01:30 PM
#70
Thanks guys for all the responses. It seems that b4.2 and rb6 are both top driving vehicles. And it also seems you can't really to too wrong going either way. However, I chose the rb6. The b4.2 seems to have all of the necessary upgrades. Just not feeling the std screws. But thx again.
01-13-2013, 01:47 PM
#73
okay so $150 difference, that makes both sides feel any better? lol
As for the steering rack on the B4s. the plastic bellcranks I never broke, had multiple b4s in various configurations throughout the years, but, the amount of play you got with the servo saver spring in comparison to the new alloy units was definitely different, a lot more steering I found.
As for the steering rack on the B4s. the plastic bellcranks I never broke, had multiple b4s in various configurations throughout the years, but, the amount of play you got with the servo saver spring in comparison to the new alloy units was definitely different, a lot more steering I found.
teeforb, I'm sure you'll be more then happy with your decision. They are both great cars, a friend of mine just switched from the b4 to an rb6 so I'm waiting on him to see how he likes it etc.......