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17.5 class. Rb6 or b4.2?

17.5 class. Rb6 or b4.2?

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Old 01-13-2013, 10:20 AM
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Depends on what you want to spend. The Kyosho is a top dollar luxury ride. It's plush, quiet, smooth, and it gets the job done in style. The AE is the $18k pocket rocket (think Civic). Not as refined, or posh, but every bit as capable of getting from point A to B. It's going to rattle, make a bunch of noise, might even smell a bit, but it just works.

Is the extra $150, and having to worry about parts support something you're interested in doing? If so, RB6. If you just want to fill her up, and go, B4.
Originally Posted by teeforb View Post
I have hears the steering rack breaks a lot and was a necessary upgrade.
I run with 4. Only 1 has broken a rack since the RB6 debut. Arms, and rear suspension holders, yes, but no racks (yet).
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Old 01-13-2013, 10:23 AM
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Originally Posted by teeforb View Post
I have hears the steering rack breaks a lot and was a necessary upgrade.
I'd argue the AE steering bellcranks needs replacement as well. Got to be a reason why they switched to aluminum ones on the 4.2.
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Old 01-13-2013, 10:24 AM
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Not alot, but is happened and bound to since the car doesn't have a servo saver..

Kyo out of the box is, and down the stretch better..

It's a 2wd buggy, what will break that you shouldn't have in your box already? Spindle? hubs? Axles? Maybe a tower? Spur? It's not like there is alot to it..
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Old 01-13-2013, 10:25 AM
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I'm doing research and post questions as we speak. This one guy showed me picks of the bottom of his rb6 chassis. It has an imprint on the bottom of his chassis in the rear. What's the deal on this?
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Old 01-13-2013, 10:31 AM
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Originally Posted by BRSracing View Post
I have have built a lot of Associated cars recently and have never had a issue with any fitting. Both cars are good, one huge factor that would help me decide is what does the hobby store stock for parts. Both cars will need stuff over time, make sure your local hobby store stocks parts for which ever one you choose.
The last 4.1 WC I built for a friend required quite a bit of sanding on the front of the chassis to allow the arms to move freely. Not a huge deal, but a minor annoyance to have to do. To clear the BB's, you previously had to shave the towers a little for clearance (I understand they just changed the towers with the 4.2). To be fair, the TLR 22 I built also needed a little hand fitting as well.

I will definitely agree that parts support is/can be a deal breaker. Sucks to have to get everything online, but most serious club racers that I meet usually carry spares of commonly broken items anyways.
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Old 01-13-2013, 10:32 AM
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Originally Posted by teeforb View Post
I'm doing research and post questions as we speak. This one guy showed me picks of the bottom of his rb6 chassis. It has an imprint on the bottom of his chassis in the rear. What's the deal on this?
I thought Kyosho was sending replacement chassis to anyone having that issue?
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Old 01-13-2013, 10:34 AM
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Originally Posted by JiuHaWong View Post
I thought Kyosho was sending replacement chassis to anyone having that issue?
I don't know
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Old 01-13-2013, 10:34 AM
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Originally Posted by JiuHaWong View Post
I thought Kyosho was sending replacement chassis to anyone having that issue?
Rumors. I've yet to see a confirmation.
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Old 01-13-2013, 10:38 AM
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There are a few confirmed in our thread.
Doesn't affect performance.

I think we've laid it well, you know what your getting with both, this speculation by non Kyo owners is comical at best. Pick what us best for you as described here and go race. tell us how it goes
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Old 01-13-2013, 10:57 AM
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Originally Posted by Cpt.America View Post
The price difference is NOT $200.

yes, FAR less (iv run two different iterations of the B4 for two full seasons, and have equal run time on the RB5 and 6 combined)... and for the swing shafts, its all about M.I.P. Once they release their swing shafts for the 5 and 6, that price point will go out the window. They are already released for the SC, and have been in testing for the buggies for the last couple months.
Amain shows the RB6 for $449, and the B4.1 for $249 = $200.

The RB5 has been out for years and no MIP cvd's, likely because shaft length has been a moving target. If Tebo shows up at a race with different arms/mounts you can bet MIP will scrap that project.

Originally Posted by t0p_sh0tta View Post
I run with 4. Only 1 has broken a rack since the RB6 debut. Arms, and rear suspension holders, yes, but no racks (yet).
I thought the RB6 was supposed to be stronger? What happens if you bend a $105 chassis plate?

Originally Posted by JiuHaWong View Post
I'd argue the AE steering bellcranks needs replacement as well. Got to be a reason why they switched to aluminum ones on the 4.2.
The B4 never needed stronger steering bell cranks for 10 years and still doesn't. It's meaningless fluff that doesn't do anything but put expensive servos at risk. They did it because our hobby has an inexplicable attraction to anodized aluminum (notice how often you see cars with aluminum parts replacing plastic ones that don't break). Losi did it to save space that the other car's don't need.
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Old 01-13-2013, 10:57 AM
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Originally Posted by t8rtot View Post
There are a few confirmed in our thread.
Doesn't affect performance.

I think we've laid it well, you know what your getting with both, this speculation by non Kyo owners is comical at best. Pick what us best for you as described here and go race. tell us how it goes
Just doing my research. I know a littl about the b4, but nothing about the kyosho. I know most of the b4 flaws. Im just learning the flaws of the rb6. Just trying to get an understanding.

Do you have the indent on yours? If no, why not?
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Old 01-13-2013, 10:59 AM
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Originally Posted by Davidka View Post
I thought the RB6 was supposed to be stronger? What happens if you bend a $105 chassis plate?
#1 thing keeping me from trying the RB6.
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Old 01-13-2013, 11:01 AM
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What's the problem with kyosho cvd?
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Old 01-13-2013, 11:27 AM
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nothing!

They are both good cars, as are most on the market....buy what you have support for at your track, period end of story......get your tires dialed in and start practicing! Get a car, stick with it!

Personally, I would go with a used rb5 sp2/wc for your price range

On a closing note, I have a buddy that runs a Special K RB6 in stock buggy and his car is plum stuck and stupid fast
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Old 01-13-2013, 12:19 PM
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Originally Posted by Davidka View Post
Amain shows the RB6 for $449, and the B4.1 for $249 = $200.
You aren't comparing apples to apples. Cmon, who are you trying to fool, me? or yourself? B4 with bigbores is NOT 249. If you take a CURRENT b4.1 and upgrade to BB shocks, hexes, etc... you are looking at a difference of about $50. Now.. with that being said, the B4.2 should be considerably better priced as all that stuff will be included, but nobody knows the price tag yet. I am guessing $299 or $319. And FYI, my track sells the RB6 new for LESS than $420.

Originally Posted by Davidka View Post
The RB5 has been out for years and no MIP cvd's, likely because shaft length has been a moving target. If Tebo shows up at a race with different arms/mounts you can bet MIP will scrap that project.
It's already about complete. I have been in contact with matt from MIP and they are ready to release. They are already on test cars and should be close.

Originally Posted by Davidka View Post
I thought the RB6 was supposed to be stronger? What happens if you bend a $105 chassis plate?
On our last layout, we had this double to triple setup that went right in front of the driverstand... The double comes towards you, and then an immediate 45 degree turn with maybe 3 foot runup to clear a triple. Anyway, if you didn't line it up just right, you go right off the track under the driver stand. I had bad landing on the double and tried to take off for the triple before the car was squared up, and sent the car DEAD SMACK, straight into one of the poles that hold up the driver stand. Tossed it with a 9.5 motor at full speed, and hit the car directly center on the front bumper. Car is 100% perfectly true still. A B4? Snapped chassis for sure.

You are a fanboi.. I get it.. You don't need to convince us that you love the B4 anymore than you already have, I understand. I myself have about 2 solid years of race time in the B4 platform, and almost that much across the RB5 and RB6... and the OVERALL cost across a reasonable timeline.. is LESS with Kyosho.

That being said.. The B4.x is still a GREAT car. There are guys in my area that absolutely dominate with it (a ton of AE team drivers up here) But it's not the car, its the driver.. and I have no doubt they would be even FASTER, in the 6 with some wheel and wrench time with it.
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