|
3 Attachment(s)
Originally Posted by Matt Trimmings
(Post 12623730)
Novak Pulse in B4.2. I used the Avid tray but did not use the avid standoffs as the esc heatsink is taller than others and hits the body.
Attachment 1121269 Attachment 1121270 see what I mean by tucking the extra wire lol also, I hate how the power wire are in between the motor leads, its hard to get through that shock tower without looking stupid. side note; HRC aluminum shelf in use |
Originally Posted by khartlauer
(Post 12623820)
see what I mean by tucking the extra wire lol also, I hate how the power wire are in between the motor leads, its hard to get through that shock tower without looking stupid. side note; HRC aluminum shelf in use
|
Originally Posted by the incubus
(Post 12623819)
Well that's a load of horse manure if ever I've read some. I burnt up a new 13.5 motor with my LRP Sphere ESC that was not modded in any way and was set only for Brake and Throttle. Nothing special. If their ESC's are that fragile and their Motors burn up for no apparent reason, it leads me to believe their quality is not very good across the board.
I've been soldering all sorts of things with my dad since I was 8 or 9 years old and I'm quite skilled at it. I use to do the modchips for the original Playstations and the PS2's and I've done Mod controllers for PS3 and Xbox as well as change controller boards on high-end hard drives when they've crapped out , I've replaced chips on motherboards and logic boards and I'd venture to say those are all much more sophisticated electronics that are considerably more sensitive to improper soldering methods and extreme temperatures. I've soldered many ESC's and Motors over the years and I have yet to have anything outside of Novak fry up. On top of that Novak's customer service policies are among the worst in the industry which is perplexing because they claim to be one of the best and as such they should stand by their products. Instead, they offer to "try" and help so long as you throw money at the problem. Thanks, but I'll stick with brands that my experience tells me are not only more durable, but also offer excellent customer support and stand by their customers. As you can see, my work is meticulous and clean and the amount of solder is minimal, as it should be. No rookie hack jobs for me. In my experience, Novak just isn't as high quality as they claim and that's that. http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...ps0e3cd941.jpg |
Originally Posted by Matt Trimmings
(Post 12623826)
Yeah, I always like my stuff to look clean. I soldered the power wires opposite from the motor wires so that they exit underneath the shelf.
|
Originally Posted by khartlauer
(Post 12623845)
thats a good idea, never even thought of doing that. i think im gonna have the local novak sponsered guy solder new wires on my esc. i like that guy's purple wire, would be cool with my body. also, i wanna put that smaller novak capacitor on it instead of that ridiculous stock one... do you have that smaller one matt?
|
Originally Posted by khartlauer
(Post 12623839)
i didnt mean to quote you on that comment, I was talking generally. people mess up their solder jobs and try to blame novak for their mistake. not saying you did that or do that, im speaking generally. but i must admit, that durango is pretty clean, especially for it being 4wd. good job man, where that purple wire from?!?!
I bought this Purple off someone on here who was selling a roll of more than 50' for $65 but he only had 10' of it left and I got it for peanuts! LOL If you want colored wire, there are 2 places I know of that have a bunch of colors but purple may be hard to come by and Neon Green is still available through one of them but not both. Also, this is 14AWG as the 12AWG is nowhere to be found. Works just fine. onlybatterypacks.com is one, the other is RobobugsRC and here's his order page: http://store.robobugs.net/index.php?...ndex&cPath=5_7 NOTE, you will pay premium for the specialty colors, but it's so worth it. |
I also dislike 12awg wire. Maybe its my iron for I cant generate enough heat fast enough for nice looking work. I mainly use TQ 13awg. Very easy to work with and it has a high strand count.
|
thanks incubus, I bought three feet of fluorescent green and purple 14g. Im excited!!! no one has crazy colored motor wire so ill be the cool guy next week :D lol
|
I actually prefer 12AWG but finding the color you want in 12 is nearly impossible so you have to take what you can get.
The key to proper soldering is Tinning, Tinning, TINNING!!! To tin properly you must apply heat to the exposed lead and then place the solder between it and the tip until it begins to soak into the wire. once this process begins, you want to quickly begin feeding solder over the top of the wire so it absorbs into the strands. Once this is done you will have to flip the lead over and do the same as the bottom almost never tins all the way through. Don't know why, but for some reason, the laws of gravity don't apply here. LOL You also don't want to apply too much as it will simply continue to absorb further up the strand, stiffening it far up the lead which is counter intuitive to the desired flexibility. There's no point in buying soft, flexible wire if you're going to make it rigid. Once properly tinned, you then place just enough solder to the point the lead will solder to and then apply heat to both simultaneously and then remove the iron and hold firmly in place until it cools. I like to use insulated alligator clips to hold my leads as they don't apply much pressure on the wire and the insulation ensures I won't feel any heat on my fingers!!! My old iron burnt out and I was in a pinch so I picked up a cheap 60 watt Hobbico Iron from my LHS and it worked superbly. All you have to do is properly tin the tip every time you turn it on and it's good for many soldering jobs. When it corrodes, buy a new tip for $4. |
Originally Posted by khartlauer
(Post 12623926)
thanks incubus, I bought three feet of fluorescent green and purple 14g. Im excited!!! no one has crazy colored motor wire so ill be the cool guy next week :D lol
As I just posted excellent tips for proper soldering, one thing I didn't mention is that you want the minimum amount of wire exposed. For instance, on my 410, knowing my Orion motor has notched leads that are just over 0.03125" I stripped just a sliver off the ends of my wires, tinned them up, and soldered to the motor. No chance of anything ever touching, creating a short unless you purposely do so. Here's my 4.2 with Neon green: http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...ps9948f7bb.jpg I had my battery short out on the CF shelf in the pics and the resin caught fire so my neon green is a bit toasty looking so I have to re-do it soon. |
Originally Posted by the incubus
(Post 12623950)
Awesome, just be sure to post up pics of the final product here!
As I just posted excellent tips for proper soldering, one thing I didn't mention is that you want the minimum amount of wire exposed. For instance, on my 410, knowing my Orion motor has notched leads that are just over 0.03125" I stripped just a sliver off the ends of my wires, tinned them up, and soldered to the motor. No chance of anything ever touching, creating a short unless you purposely do so. |
LOL, as you can probably tell, I'm a bit OCD myself!
ALL my stuff's got to be CLEAN! |
Just moved my esc and receiver to the battery tray and installed the Avid motor centering kit. I'm anxious to see how it acts. I'm giving a gear diff a try also,I have a feeling I'll be going back to the a ball diff though,don't know why just have that feeling.
|
Originally Posted by bigdaddy13
(Post 12624642)
Just moved my esc and receiver to the battery tray and installed the Avid motor centering kit. I'm anxious to see how it acts. I'm giving a gear diff a try also,I have a feeling I'll be going back to the a ball diff though,don't know why just have that feeling.
|
Ran my b4.2 for the first time last night at the new local track. Wow is all I can say. This buggy makes even new drivers look good. So smooth and easy to drive for a beginner or expert. I used to race for years but have been out for a long time. Did really well for hoe long I've been out! I'm running a spektrum 6040, tekin rs Gen 2, tekin 17.5 Gen 2, spektrum dx4 and some killer4300 2s lipo
|
| All times are GMT -7. It is currently 03:00 PM. |
Powered By: vBulletin v3.9.3.9 Patch Level 3
Copyright © 2026 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.