Need help choosing first racing car
01-09-2013, 12:15 PM
#1
Need help choosing first racing car
Hey guys Im going to start doing some indoor off road racing and need help choosing a good first car or truck. I have about $400 to spend. For indoor racing I would probably need a 1/10 buggy or truck so help me out. Like buggy or truck, 2wd or 4wd rtr or kit and just help me out on my first racing one to buy. And don't say like a crappy car cause I'm a good driver but I have just never raced so I want to get started.
01-09-2013, 12:26 PM
#2
#1 Go to your track to talk to racers and discuss what classes are popular in your area. If you plan to race then you need to buy a car/truck that fits into the existing classes. If they have a hobby shop go there to gather information about their race program.
#2 Once you know what car/truck you like and you want more info then search this forum for that car/truck. There will be hundreds of posts about almost every car.
$700 is a more realistic budget for a race vehicle. That's a big number but racing always costs more than just playing around. You will need car, radio, steering servo, electronic speed control, brushless motor, race tires, lipo battery, charger, tools, and paint at least.
Hope that helps!
#2 Once you know what car/truck you like and you want more info then search this forum for that car/truck. There will be hundreds of posts about almost every car.
$700 is a more realistic budget for a race vehicle. That's a big number but racing always costs more than just playing around. You will need car, radio, steering servo, electronic speed control, brushless motor, race tires, lipo battery, charger, tools, and paint at least.
Hope that helps!
01-09-2013, 01:31 PM
#3
If you're locked in at $400, your best bet may be to put a car together via the classifieds here on RCTech (at least the chassis and radio).
Chassis:
Associated B4.1 Factory Team is probably the most user-friendly buggy chassis there is. Make sure you get a Factory Team - the shocks alone (even the standard bore "V2" shocks) are worth any difference in price compared to an RTR. A decent Factory Team B4.1 (or a World's Edition) can be had for roughly half of the price of a new car.
Motor:
17.5T motors are really an endless game of Ford vs. Dodge vs. Chevy vs. Toyota arguments, but I can tell you from experience that Trinity and SchuurSpeed motors are good. A new motor will cost ~$100, but if you find a used car with a 17.5 motor already in it you will save money there, but be aware that a used stock motor has likely been run at temperatures high enough to decrease performance over time. It isn't that big of a deal as long as you know what you are getting into.
ESC:
Whatever ESC you get, ensure that it supports "blinky" mode so you can run stock class. ESCs can be a good value on the used market, so don't be too scared of buying any of the big names (Orion, LRP, Tekin, SpeedPassion, etc.). I personally run a Tekin RS for all of my 2wd cars and I have not had one fail in 1.5 years of use in 3 vehicles. I did have issues with an LRP SXX V2, however, and those issues seem to be fairly common. I've never personally seen any issues with Orion ESCs, though I have seen a couple of Tekins and SpeedPassion ESCs fail. Regardless, if it is being listed as running in the classifieds it probably works.
Radio/Receiver:
This will be the most expensive single item you will need. If you are buying brand new, I think the best value right now is the Airtronics MT-4. Spektrum radios are inexpensive, but I have not been to a track yet that I haven't witnessed a Spektrum radio glitching. If you can find an Airtronics MT-4 or Futaba 3PK/3PKS with receiver in the used market they can be had for a good price. I found my 3PKS with 2 receivers, 2.4ghz module and transmitter box for $200 in the local classifieds, and it only had ~20 hours of use on it.
Servo:
Eventually you will want to match your servo to your radio gear, but that isn't always an option when working on a budget. I would look for a servo with a transit time of <0.10sec and a torque rating of >100oz for a buggy. Right now I'm running a $15 servo from HobbyParts since my primary servo's motor died (after 9 years). It is working just fine, but I intend to replace it as soon as I can afford it. I've had good luck with used servos from Airtronics, Futaba and XP Digital (DS1313).
Batteries:
I might catch some flack for this, but I feel inexpensive new batteries are a better buy than used batteries. 2 batteries will easily get you through a race program, even with a single charger. My personal favorite "cheap" battery is the Turnigy Nano-Techs for shorty packs and saddle packs. I have also had good luck with the Gens Ace packs, even in a 4x4 short course truck.
Charger:
I might catch some flack for this, too, but just about any LiPo capable charger will work exactly the same as any other one for club level racing. As long as you can get 5 amps while plugged into the wall you will be in good shape. Chargers are also a good value on the used market, so don't be scared to buy one as long as it has a balance board with it (either attached or integrated).
TL;DR:
Car: $150, best value will be a Team Associated Factory Team B4.1
Motor: 17.5T sensored motor, buy new if you can afford it, otherwise $50-$60 should get you a used one.
ESC: Buy a name brand ESC, even if you buy it used. Prices vary depending on brand, but budget around $100.
Radio: Airtronics MT-4 or Futaba 3PK/3PKS are good radios at a good price currently. $200 should find you a used radio.
Servo: Brand name servos are the way to go if you can afford it. If you cant afford a new brand name servo, buy a used one. $50-$60 will get you a decent servo.
Batteries: Buy new. Turnigy NanoTech and Gens Ace are decent to start out with. You don't need the most MAH you can buy. Get a low MAH battery for racing because you don't need all of that weight. $75 will get you 2 batteries.
Charger: Pretty much any LiPo charger. Good value used, $50 for new will get you by, less for used.
Total reasonable budget: $700 for a race-ready rig.
Chassis:
Associated B4.1 Factory Team is probably the most user-friendly buggy chassis there is. Make sure you get a Factory Team - the shocks alone (even the standard bore "V2" shocks) are worth any difference in price compared to an RTR. A decent Factory Team B4.1 (or a World's Edition) can be had for roughly half of the price of a new car.
Motor:
17.5T motors are really an endless game of Ford vs. Dodge vs. Chevy vs. Toyota arguments, but I can tell you from experience that Trinity and SchuurSpeed motors are good. A new motor will cost ~$100, but if you find a used car with a 17.5 motor already in it you will save money there, but be aware that a used stock motor has likely been run at temperatures high enough to decrease performance over time. It isn't that big of a deal as long as you know what you are getting into.
ESC:
Whatever ESC you get, ensure that it supports "blinky" mode so you can run stock class. ESCs can be a good value on the used market, so don't be too scared of buying any of the big names (Orion, LRP, Tekin, SpeedPassion, etc.). I personally run a Tekin RS for all of my 2wd cars and I have not had one fail in 1.5 years of use in 3 vehicles. I did have issues with an LRP SXX V2, however, and those issues seem to be fairly common. I've never personally seen any issues with Orion ESCs, though I have seen a couple of Tekins and SpeedPassion ESCs fail. Regardless, if it is being listed as running in the classifieds it probably works.
Radio/Receiver:
This will be the most expensive single item you will need. If you are buying brand new, I think the best value right now is the Airtronics MT-4. Spektrum radios are inexpensive, but I have not been to a track yet that I haven't witnessed a Spektrum radio glitching. If you can find an Airtronics MT-4 or Futaba 3PK/3PKS with receiver in the used market they can be had for a good price. I found my 3PKS with 2 receivers, 2.4ghz module and transmitter box for $200 in the local classifieds, and it only had ~20 hours of use on it.
Servo:
Eventually you will want to match your servo to your radio gear, but that isn't always an option when working on a budget. I would look for a servo with a transit time of <0.10sec and a torque rating of >100oz for a buggy. Right now I'm running a $15 servo from HobbyParts since my primary servo's motor died (after 9 years). It is working just fine, but I intend to replace it as soon as I can afford it. I've had good luck with used servos from Airtronics, Futaba and XP Digital (DS1313).
Batteries:
I might catch some flack for this, but I feel inexpensive new batteries are a better buy than used batteries. 2 batteries will easily get you through a race program, even with a single charger. My personal favorite "cheap" battery is the Turnigy Nano-Techs for shorty packs and saddle packs. I have also had good luck with the Gens Ace packs, even in a 4x4 short course truck.
Charger:
I might catch some flack for this, too, but just about any LiPo capable charger will work exactly the same as any other one for club level racing. As long as you can get 5 amps while plugged into the wall you will be in good shape. Chargers are also a good value on the used market, so don't be scared to buy one as long as it has a balance board with it (either attached or integrated).
TL;DR:
Car: $150, best value will be a Team Associated Factory Team B4.1
Motor: 17.5T sensored motor, buy new if you can afford it, otherwise $50-$60 should get you a used one.
ESC: Buy a name brand ESC, even if you buy it used. Prices vary depending on brand, but budget around $100.
Radio: Airtronics MT-4 or Futaba 3PK/3PKS are good radios at a good price currently. $200 should find you a used radio.
Servo: Brand name servos are the way to go if you can afford it. If you cant afford a new brand name servo, buy a used one. $50-$60 will get you a decent servo.
Batteries: Buy new. Turnigy NanoTech and Gens Ace are decent to start out with. You don't need the most MAH you can buy. Get a low MAH battery for racing because you don't need all of that weight. $75 will get you 2 batteries.
Charger: Pretty much any LiPo charger. Good value used, $50 for new will get you by, less for used.
Total reasonable budget: $700 for a race-ready rig.
01-09-2013, 01:36 PM
#4
Look at the parts wall at your local race track.
Find the car with the LEAST amount of replacement parts hanging up there, and buy that one.
Find the car with the LEAST amount of replacement parts hanging up there, and buy that one.
01-09-2013, 01:57 PM
#5
you do NOT need 700$ to race, just buy used and save 50%
Everyone saying you need so much money is not knowing the used market, I don't even loose money in the hobby anymore. Buy as a package then sell separetely. With the profit -> drive. It needs time but you'll save a LOT of money. The only thing is that when you have nothing at the beginning you will need to make the right choices. Neither going for the cheaper or the most expensive is a good one, on this I agree with bdyche. His analysis is good but it can be cheaper.
Edit: for the class, I'd choose buggy 2wd, you'll improve and learn a lot while not spending too much
Everyone saying you need so much money is not knowing the used market, I don't even loose money in the hobby anymore. Buy as a package then sell separetely. With the profit -> drive. It needs time but you'll save a LOT of money. The only thing is that when you have nothing at the beginning you will need to make the right choices. Neither going for the cheaper or the most expensive is a good one, on this I agree with bdyche. His analysis is good but it can be cheaper.
Edit: for the class, I'd choose buggy 2wd, you'll improve and learn a lot while not spending too much
Last edited by Pulse_; 01-09-2013 at 02:11 PM.
01-09-2013, 02:17 PM
#7
Ideally go to a club, speak with drivers, see what they run, tell them you look for a buggy.
When it's in the same "group" you have less chances to do a bad choice because you could speak about it. Most drivers are quite sensible about their image and don't want to ruin their reputation just by selling something crap to another club member. There are many honest sellers and I rarely had a problem but as a beginner better buy locally.
When it's in the same "group" you have less chances to do a bad choice because you could speak about it. Most drivers are quite sensible about their image and don't want to ruin their reputation just by selling something crap to another club member. There are many honest sellers and I rarely had a problem but as a beginner better buy locally.
01-09-2013, 03:39 PM
#8
No used cars only new so no used ones of here.
01-09-2013, 03:50 PM
#9
to get everything new to race it will be hard for 400 bucks, you'll need tools, a charger, lipos, tires too etc.. it's not just the car and electronics
01-09-2013, 03:59 PM
#10
I own a few electric Rc cars guys so I have a radio and a charger but I'm thinking an rtr so what one?
01-09-2013, 04:13 PM
#11
Like the posters above said, it'd be in your best interest to go to your local track and find out which classes are the most popular, then base your decision on what type of vehicle on that.
01-09-2013, 04:21 PM
#12
Ok so should I get a buggy or a truck like what are the pros and cons of both? And then what rtr buggy or truck should I get?
01-09-2013, 05:03 PM
#14
i personally run truck over buggy. reason why is oudoor tracks are popular around here and they are not exactly smooth to say it mildly. 2wd buggy come unsettled to easy on rough tracks IMO. i have nothing agaist them. just dont work well here.
But see what class is more popular at the tracks you would race at.
But see what class is more popular at the tracks you would race at.
01-09-2013, 05:04 PM
#15
i personally run truck over buggy. reason why is oudoor tracks are popular around here and they are not exactly smooth to say it mildly. 2wd buggy come unsettled to easy on rough tracks IMO. i have nothing agaist them. just dont work well here.
But see what class is more popular at the tracks you would race at.
But see what class is more popular at the tracks you would race at.
