What is the most "complete" 1/8th buggy kit?
12-15-2012, 08:04 PM
#31
Tech Addict
iTrader: (58)
I love Tekno products and since Tekno and I share the same home track I've tuned and run a few eb48's and even barrowed one for awhile from a fellow racer to put my setups on it an test out but haven't owned one due to its high cost.
12-15-2012, 08:10 PM
#32
Tech Addict
iTrader: (58)
They are the exact same. The part numbers are both "MUGE0088". Tower's description sucks. I bought mine from them and went out on a limb, but it was in fact the US edition.
I sold my RC8.2e to get my Mugen. The Associated was a nice car, but it pushed too much and the parts wore like crap. I still run my SC10 4x4 and my B4.1, but I wasn't a huge fan of their 1/8 scale. Mugen is a totally race oriented company and it shows. Their parts quality are miles above the rest.
I sold my RC8.2e to get my Mugen. The Associated was a nice car, but it pushed too much and the parts wore like crap. I still run my SC10 4x4 and my B4.1, but I wasn't a huge fan of their 1/8 scale. Mugen is a totally race oriented company and it shows. Their parts quality are miles above the rest.
12-15-2012, 08:13 PM
#33
Where have you seen the stock chassis snap? In what conditions I mean. I had 2 RC8.2e buggys pretty much since they were released and never bent or broke a singe part on either of them. (Had to sell them off recently due to a income shortage) Both ran with the stock chassis one indoor and one out, then I put the v4 chassis on one of them (which was given to me). I was faster with the stock chassis at first but with the right setup the V4 was just as fast. It's a different style of driving when you put the V4 on.
I love Tekno products and since Tekno and I share the same home track I've tuned and run a few eb48's and even barrowed one for awhile from a fellow racer to put my setups on it an test out but haven't owned one due to its high cost.
I love Tekno products and since Tekno and I share the same home track I've tuned and run a few eb48's and even barrowed one for awhile from a fellow racer to put my setups on it an test out but haven't owned one due to its high cost.
watch at about 6:30
12-15-2012, 08:49 PM
#34
Arms really. Front uppers bowed downward, both the old and the new style. Front lowers developed slop around the hinge pin. Front caster blocks developed slop around the inserts. Rear arms around the hinge pin as well.
12-17-2012, 09:10 AM
#35
i sent an email to towerhobbies asking if the Mugan under the stock #.E0088
is the US special edition, and the answer was No, it's the regular edition.
just want to notify fellows here.
12-17-2012, 10:05 AM
#36
+ 1 for the Mugen MBX6 Eco
I recently bought an 1/8th scale and asked around for what car is the best to get. All the guys at my local track keep saying Mugen MBX 6 Eco. It's what they all run. So I bought one with an RX8 ESC and A Tekin 1900 KV Motor. They come with some different option parts to try out to see what fits your taste. I have to say, this thing is very competitive out of the box. They all break if you case a jump full throttle and drive it straight into a wooden 6x6 post, but I would say I haven't really broken anything on the Mugen yet. The most common thing is A arms, but that can be helped by boiling the A arms in hot water for 30-45 minutes to soften them up slightly. I would ask a few questions before you decide though,
1. What parts are readily available at the local track you are going to?
2. What are the other guys at your track running? So they can help you when you have questions?
3. Budget?
Whatever you decide, practice makes perfect!!
Hope this helps.
I recently bought an 1/8th scale and asked around for what car is the best to get. All the guys at my local track keep saying Mugen MBX 6 Eco. It's what they all run. So I bought one with an RX8 ESC and A Tekin 1900 KV Motor. They come with some different option parts to try out to see what fits your taste. I have to say, this thing is very competitive out of the box. They all break if you case a jump full throttle and drive it straight into a wooden 6x6 post, but I would say I haven't really broken anything on the Mugen yet. The most common thing is A arms, but that can be helped by boiling the A arms in hot water for 30-45 minutes to soften them up slightly. I would ask a few questions before you decide though,
1. What parts are readily available at the local track you are going to?
2. What are the other guys at your track running? So they can help you when you have questions?
3. Budget?
Whatever you decide, practice makes perfect!!
Hope this helps.
12-17-2012, 10:47 AM
#38
My FT RC8.2e needed nothing out of the box, I only put the alum rear hubs on it for bling and cause I got them for 50 bucks. Plus is ran circles around losi's, mugens and even eb48s *edit- (not every single one, of course, but quite a few)end edit* It is an exceptional car. Best 1/8 I've ever owned and I've had them all except the Durango.
12-20-2012, 06:41 AM
#39
I have the MBX6 Eco and love it. I have been tempted to try the EB48 but I think I will stick to my MBX6 Eco until the MBX7 Eco is out whenever that will be.
12-20-2012, 07:14 AM
#40
The difference between the US edition and the standard one are the aluminum hop ups (2-3 of them improve crash resistance and a couple of drive train parts) and the included springs. The aluminum drive train parts included are lighter but will wear faster and cost more to replace. Their weight savings is offset somewhat by the alu parts added for strength in place of plastic. There will be very little difference in how they actually run.
Can't go wrong with the Mugen. It's a proven, refined design backed with lots of great setup info so it will work very well the first time you put it on the track. Parts are reasonable (more than HB or AE, less than Kyo) and rarely needed. Very few unsatisfied Mugen owners out there.
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