Pulse_

http://www.rctech.net/forum/radio-el...ef-lesson.html

best ressource available

Dave H

Basically a poor quality joint, might appear to be ok but can easily come apart, and have high resistance (related, high resistance creates heat that contributes to the failure of poor joint).

Several causes, not using flux to cut through surface oxidation, not heating properly to get a complete joint, letting the joint move before it cools, etc.

Dave H

Using too much flux, too much heat, or even a dirty tip can leave black residue. Flux is a wonderful thing, but in moderation, doesn't take much. Same for heat, using a lot of heat to overcome poor technique is not good for the work or the tip.

ta_man

iTrader: (168)

Makes my iron black and nasty too but using flux everywhere is so worth it.

Cleaning an iron is very easy and I do it frequently while soldering. There are many places you can buy soldering iron cleaning sponges that you are supposed to keep damp and you use my rubbing the iron on them. I found that it was not easy to get the entire tip clean that way so I use an old terry wash cloth. I don't even bother wetting it. Just use it (folded over twice to there are many layers between the iron tip and your had) to wipe off the iron. The key is to add some solder to the iron both before and after you clean it with the cloth.

A dry towel you ask, aghast? Yes the iron burns it a little bit. I get about two years from a face-cloth size terry towel before it need to be replaced.

Here's my favorite picture of what can be accomplished with proper use of flux and a good brand of 63/37 solder. Solder flowed perfectly, just the right amount where it is needed and none anyplace else:

Jimmy Lauri

iTrader: (2)

Yep...Kester. I order it from All-Spec. They have flux thats dispensed with a needle. I use this also with the solder. The p/n for the flux is..670-391. Jimmy

associatevalley

iTrader: (38)

Is there a noticeable difference between 60/40 and 63/37?

aloksatoor

iTrader: (43)

The melting points at one temperature rather than a range for the 63 37. 60 40 is a bit of hit and miss but if your iron is powerful enough then its fine. Honestly I prefer the 63 37 because I sometimes solder integrated circuits (headphone amps and dacs). But for RC both should be equal. Get what is local and easy to source in a pinch.

http://forums.qrz.com/showthread.php...60-40-vs-63-37

Heres a quote from that thread

I would stick with the eutectic 63/37.
The idea behind the 63/37 is that it goes directly from liquid
to solid. The plastic state is virtually non-existant.

elex300

iTrader: (110)

I use 60/40 with a good hot iron and a clean tip,thats it. Flux is a corrosive agent. The reason people like it is it creates instantanious heat so if your iron isnt up to par you can still get solder to flow. This is not how soldering should be done. If you have the correct amount of heat to start with you should never have to use flux.

asc6000

iTrader: (15)

flux creates heat? surely you simply mispoke. It allows solder to flow at a moderate temperature. If you used enough heat you wouldn't need solder at all but you would burn the hell outta everything. Yea it's corrosive in a meaningless way. I have 30 year old nicads that the fluxed area looks like it did when I built them, with a 45 watt iron. They also still run like a raped ape.

Matt Howard

iTrader: (6)

acid flux is a corrosive agent, not rosin flux used in our applications. Flux cleans the area to be soldered allowing better solder flow to the affected areas. If you want the best joint you should ALWAYS use flux, obviously that isn't possible in our applications but it's still true.

associatevalley

iTrader: (38)

Just wanted to thank everyone that input on this thread. I had gotten pretty good with silver solder and no flux, not realizing that I had other options! Went kester 44 63/37 and kester flux pen. To anyone who hasnt tried this, give it a shot. Its night and day.

jayhawknavy02

iTrader: (2)

I'm going to try the new solder as well. Here's my first solder attempt ever! Came out okay, but I learned a lot.

Runerg

iTrader: (1)

Almit, Multicore, Kester, Interflux, Koki etc have all great solder wire products. These brands are used in professional manufacturing for high end electronics.

Tin whiskers and also silver migration are a big problem. Silver is a no-no in my books as long as the assembly are used in a harch environment.

???E-Racer

iTrader: (3)

Only thing I can solder is deans ends on esc's. Motor plugs or dirrect soldering to the motor itself forget about it. Im not a good solder person.
I usually pay $2.50 to the guy at the LHS to solder for me. It's cheap
and it better to have it done right the first time anyways.

Carranza76

iTrader: (1)

I have that one but just ordered a soldering station do you know what tip can be used as an alternate? The 3/8" tip it comes with is way to big!