Changing Hobbywing 1/8th brushless motor bearings
11-23-2012, 03:47 PM
#1
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Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: South Coast RC Ministry of Propaganda, Dorset, England
Posts: 33
Changing Hobbywing 1/8th brushless motor bearings
I have a Hobbywing EZRUN 4065 2700kv motor (the type used in 1/8th buggies) and will be wanting to change the bearings sometime.
Right now they're sweet but I have the ceramic 5 x 16 x 5mm bearings from Acer Racing ready to do the job.
Does anyone have experience of doing this?
I'd like to know:
Is changing front bearing just a case of pressing out the old one and pressing in the new one, or is it necessary to heat up the front cover to make this easier?
Does the rear cover (nearest the power wires) come off when you remove the 3 small screws, and if so should I follow the same procedure as changing the front bearing?
If not, how do you change the rear bearing without damaging the motor?
If anyone can help with this it would be great, thanks!
Right now they're sweet but I have the ceramic 5 x 16 x 5mm bearings from Acer Racing ready to do the job.
Does anyone have experience of doing this?
I'd like to know:
Is changing front bearing just a case of pressing out the old one and pressing in the new one, or is it necessary to heat up the front cover to make this easier?
Does the rear cover (nearest the power wires) come off when you remove the 3 small screws, and if so should I follow the same procedure as changing the front bearing?
If not, how do you change the rear bearing without damaging the motor?
If anyone can help with this it would be great, thanks!
11-23-2012, 05:37 PM
#2
Remove screws, you can pull the front plate (shaft side) off, the rotor out and the back plate off. Pay attention to washer count on each side for when you put it back together.
Find a socket that sits on the inner bearing race to try push it out. Too tight? Stick it in the oven at 300° for a few minutes... 5 maybe and then stick it in the freezer for a few minutes... 5 maybe with the bearing side down on the rack so there is nothing below the bearing and it may fall out. If not, tap it on the counter with something on one side of it so the bearings not sitting flush on the counter (if that's the case) so the bearing can fall out.
Looks like the back plate is not open through the back to push the bearing out like the front so you can try get a dental pick or something hooked under it and try to pull it out. If it's in there too tight, do the oven/freezer as described above.
Some motors will have had a drop of CA put in the pocket to hold the bearing in place... pain in the butt.
That's how I've done it, maybe someone has a better method?
Find a socket that sits on the inner bearing race to try push it out. Too tight? Stick it in the oven at 300° for a few minutes... 5 maybe and then stick it in the freezer for a few minutes... 5 maybe with the bearing side down on the rack so there is nothing below the bearing and it may fall out. If not, tap it on the counter with something on one side of it so the bearings not sitting flush on the counter (if that's the case) so the bearing can fall out.
Looks like the back plate is not open through the back to push the bearing out like the front so you can try get a dental pick or something hooked under it and try to pull it out. If it's in there too tight, do the oven/freezer as described above.
Some motors will have had a drop of CA put in the pocket to hold the bearing in place... pain in the butt.
That's how I've done it, maybe someone has a better method?
11-24-2012, 01:18 AM
#3
Tech Initiate
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: South Coast RC Ministry of Propaganda, Dorset, England
Posts: 33
Remove screws, you can pull the front plate (shaft side) off, the rotor out and the back plate off. Pay attention to washer count on each side for when you put it back together.
Find a socket that sits on the inner bearing race to try push it out. Too tight? Stick it in the oven at 300° for a few minutes... 5 maybe and then stick it in the freezer for a few minutes... 5 maybe with the bearing side down on the rack so there is nothing below the bearing and it may fall out. If not, tap it on the counter with something on one side of it so the bearings not sitting flush on the counter (if that's the case) so the bearing can fall out.
Looks like the back plate is not open through the back to push the bearing out like the front so you can try get a dental pick or something hooked under it and try to pull it out. If it's in there too tight, do the oven/freezer as described above.
Some motors will have had a drop of CA put in the pocket to hold the bearing in place... pain in the butt.
That's how I've done it, maybe someone has a better method?
Find a socket that sits on the inner bearing race to try push it out. Too tight? Stick it in the oven at 300° for a few minutes... 5 maybe and then stick it in the freezer for a few minutes... 5 maybe with the bearing side down on the rack so there is nothing below the bearing and it may fall out. If not, tap it on the counter with something on one side of it so the bearings not sitting flush on the counter (if that's the case) so the bearing can fall out.
Looks like the back plate is not open through the back to push the bearing out like the front so you can try get a dental pick or something hooked under it and try to pull it out. If it's in there too tight, do the oven/freezer as described above.
Some motors will have had a drop of CA put in the pocket to hold the bearing in place... pain in the butt.
That's how I've done it, maybe someone has a better method?
My main concern was whether the backplate can be removed because if it couldn't be seperated from the rest of the motor it would've meant i'd have to remove the rear bearing somehow without using heat.
How do you deal with the CA glue if it's there?
11-24-2012, 01:40 AM
#4
Just pull the screws, those should run through the motor into the back plate.
If glued and can't be pushed or tapped out with a socket that's not sitting in the bearing seal but on the outer or inner race... oven then tap out with same socket.
No glue on the new bearing.
If glued and can't be pushed or tapped out with a socket that's not sitting in the bearing seal but on the outer or inner race... oven then tap out with same socket.
No glue on the new bearing.
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