17LikesTekno SCT410 Thread
08-13-2015, 04:10 PM
Setup
I recently swapped out with a used body that I bought from another racer who sold off his SCTE and the holes lined up perfectly with my Tekno... anyway he had drilled a bunch of holes on the rear of the body and left most of the front of the body untouched... this seems to make the car a bit more nose up most of the time now, I actually find that I need to tap the brake in mid air with this body cutout method 
When I race at tracks with larger jumps, I find it necessary to run with extra pre-load in the rear to avoid nose diving too.
When I race at tracks with larger jumps, I find it necessary to run with extra pre-load in the rear to avoid nose diving too.
08-13-2015, 04:18 PM
I've not had that issue, though I did need to re-shim things when I swapped mine. Generally I find the pinion side to work best with only shims on the outside of the case (usually 1 is enough, occasionally 2). The ring/diff assembly will then need to be shimmed side to side to get the best mesh. Keep in mind that you probably have plenty of run time on your truck so the gears have worn into the other style, but haven't broken into this setting yet. Set it so it is the best of the shim/mesh options, then run it for a couple packs, and it'll likely be back to smooth.
If it is too loose, even with the ring shimmed as close to the pinion as possible, then, and only then, move a shim to the inside of the case from the outside.
Also double check that all your bearings are good and flush to where they should be, with the ring gear screwed in straight to the diff so it has no wobble.
If it is too loose, even with the ring shimmed as close to the pinion as possible, then, and only then, move a shim to the inside of the case from the outside.
Also double check that all your bearings are good and flush to where they should be, with the ring gear screwed in straight to the diff so it has no wobble.
08-13-2015, 04:26 PM
Has anyone upgraded the rear shock tower to the carbon fiber unit? Is it more durable?
08-13-2015, 04:31 PM
Tech Adept
I just ordered the eb48 cnc tower for my 410. have one on my buggy and no issues. probably order one for my eb48SL as well once the stocker starts to bend
08-14-2015, 05:39 PM
Mechanical brakes - Anyone tried this with success?
Hi all, have any of you tried out the mechanical brakes for the SCT410?
If so, please tell me all about it guys and gals, pros & cons!
Some thoughts:
When I got this truck, this was something I really wanted to test out and see if I could get a smoother and more adjustable braking.
As the Pros would be that you could adjust front versus rear brakes and letting you that way get better round times, maybe
... And as a plus maybe reduce motor temps giving you more room to adjust ESC also.
Cons would be the added weight of brakes and an extra servo and more weight at the rear of the car. However, the added weight at the rear I don't think would be the biggest issue with this truck though.
And if you look at the TKR5206X Mechanical Brakes PDF manual they have this set up with a center diff, I have the Traktion Drive / Elektri-Clutch system for the truck laying here, untouched and ready to be mounted. If this should work 100% as intended the Elektri-Clutch is what you should run the mechanical brakes with it right? Because you need to 'disconnect' the front/ rear drive train if you want to have more/ less brake into the front/ rear, at least that is what I see that this system could be set up. Then again the diffs will 'coast' also when they are on power, however braking would lock up the diffs making the front and rear of the drive-train work like one and hence you would not get any advantaged of adjusting more brake force to the rear? (as an example). Or am i wrong?
( @Tekno Team, what is your input on this? )
I might be wrong though... Never tried something like this on anything electric powered before hehe...
From Tekno's FAQ:
If so, please tell me all about it guys and gals, pros & cons!
Some thoughts:
When I got this truck, this was something I really wanted to test out and see if I could get a smoother and more adjustable braking.
As the Pros would be that you could adjust front versus rear brakes and letting you that way get better round times, maybe
... And as a plus maybe reduce motor temps giving you more room to adjust ESC also.Cons would be the added weight of brakes and an extra servo and more weight at the rear of the car. However, the added weight at the rear I don't think would be the biggest issue with this truck though.
And if you look at the TKR5206X Mechanical Brakes PDF manual they have this set up with a center diff, I have the Traktion Drive / Elektri-Clutch system for the truck laying here, untouched and ready to be mounted. If this should work 100% as intended the Elektri-Clutch is what you should run the mechanical brakes with it right? Because you need to 'disconnect' the front/ rear drive train if you want to have more/ less brake into the front/ rear, at least that is what I see that this system could be set up. Then again the diffs will 'coast' also when they are on power, however braking would lock up the diffs making the front and rear of the drive-train work like one and hence you would not get any advantaged of adjusting more brake force to the rear? (as an example). Or am i wrong?
( @Tekno Team, what is your input on this?
)I might be wrong though... Never tried something like this on anything electric powered before hehe...
From Tekno's FAQ:
08-15-2015, 10:36 AM
The EB48SL and the SCT410.3 use a different shock tower than the originals, and at this point only have 1 upgrade option, CF. The new CF towers are the new geometry, but are also thicker than the originals and should handle the abuse better while still being lighter.
The full EB48.3 uses different towers from all of the vehicles, so there is no crossover like there was on the originals.
08-15-2015, 10:44 AM
Hi all, have any of you tried out the mechanical brakes for the SCT410?
If so, please tell me all about it guys and gals, pros & cons!
Some thoughts:
When I got this truck, this was something I really wanted to test out and see if I could get a smoother and more adjustable braking.
As the Pros would be that you could adjust front versus rear brakes and letting you that way get better round times, maybe... And as a plus maybe reduce motor temps giving you more room to adjust ESC also.
Cons would be the added weight of brakes and an extra servo and more weight at the rear of the car. However, the added weight at the rear I don't think would be the biggest issue with this truck though.
And if you look at the TKR5206X Mechanical Brakes PDF manual they have this set up with a center diff, I have the Traktion Drive / Elektri-Clutch system for the truck laying here, untouched and ready to be mounted. If this should work 100% as intended the Elektri-Clutch is what you should run the mechanical brakes with it right? Because you need to 'disconnect' the front/ rear drive train if you want to have more/ less brake into the front/ rear, at least that is what I see that this system could be set up. Then again the diffs will 'coast' also when they are on power, however braking would lock up the diffs making the front and rear of the drive-train work like one and hence you would not get any advantaged of adjusting more brake force to the rear? (as an example). Or am i wrong?
( @Tekno Team, what is your input on this? )
I might be wrong though... Never tried something like this on anything electric powered before hehe...
From Tekno's FAQ:
If so, please tell me all about it guys and gals, pros & cons!
Some thoughts:
When I got this truck, this was something I really wanted to test out and see if I could get a smoother and more adjustable braking.
As the Pros would be that you could adjust front versus rear brakes and letting you that way get better round times, maybe
... And as a plus maybe reduce motor temps giving you more room to adjust ESC also.Cons would be the added weight of brakes and an extra servo and more weight at the rear of the car. However, the added weight at the rear I don't think would be the biggest issue with this truck though.
And if you look at the TKR5206X Mechanical Brakes PDF manual they have this set up with a center diff, I have the Traktion Drive / Elektri-Clutch system for the truck laying here, untouched and ready to be mounted. If this should work 100% as intended the Elektri-Clutch is what you should run the mechanical brakes with it right? Because you need to 'disconnect' the front/ rear drive train if you want to have more/ less brake into the front/ rear, at least that is what I see that this system could be set up. Then again the diffs will 'coast' also when they are on power, however braking would lock up the diffs making the front and rear of the drive-train work like one and hence you would not get any advantaged of adjusting more brake force to the rear? (as an example). Or am i wrong?
( @Tekno Team, what is your input on this?
)I might be wrong though... Never tried something like this on anything electric powered before hehe...
From Tekno's FAQ:
One will have complete free spin of the drivetrain when not engaged and the other will only have the clutch spool up on throttle, to allow for electric engine breaking while still getting nitro clutch feel on throttle.
Mechanical brakes would honestly work with just a normal pinion and the brakes in the ESC set to no strength, but you'd still get the natural drag of the motor's electromagnetic fields, giving you what felt like a little bit of drag brake (just like it does naturally now). To make it all work best though, you want to use the clutch so the motor isn't engaged at all when off throttle and coasting is a free roll, then when braking you get the bias and mechanical grab traits with no additional motor drag.
Hope that clears things up some.
08-15-2015, 11:08 AM
I upgraded to the eb48's front and rear shock towers!
08-16-2015, 08:26 AM
I think your confusion is coming from where you think the electriclutch goes. They do not replace the center diff, they replace your pinion.
One will have complete free spin of the drivetrain when not engaged and the other will only have the clutch spool up on throttle, to allow for electric engine breaking while still getting nitro clutch feel on throttle.
Mechanical brakes would honestly work with just a normal pinion and the brakes in the ESC set to no strength, but you'd still get the natural drag of the motor's electromagnetic fields, giving you what felt like a little bit of drag brake (just like it does naturally now). To make it all work best though, you want to use the clutch so the motor isn't engaged at all when off throttle and coasting is a free roll, then when braking you get the bias and mechanical grab traits with no additional motor drag.
Hope that clears things up some.
One will have complete free spin of the drivetrain when not engaged and the other will only have the clutch spool up on throttle, to allow for electric engine breaking while still getting nitro clutch feel on throttle.
Mechanical brakes would honestly work with just a normal pinion and the brakes in the ESC set to no strength, but you'd still get the natural drag of the motor's electromagnetic fields, giving you what felt like a little bit of drag brake (just like it does naturally now). To make it all work best though, you want to use the clutch so the motor isn't engaged at all when off throttle and coasting is a free roll, then when braking you get the bias and mechanical grab traits with no additional motor drag.
Hope that clears things up some.
Yes, I know the electro-clutch don't replace the center diff, just some bad explaining from my side, sorry for that.
What you are telling me about mechanical brakes will work with a pinion setup and not the electro-clutch is also an option to consider. But then again getting the free coasting with the electri-clutch is what I am looking for really. Hopefully this will give a car that feels very free and loose on the track.
I see that both Tekno and Amain has this as an discontinued product, so I guess this is not something people really are not much into I guess.
So it has to be something that did not 'take off' with this system, or it is just simply that an electric setup with the brakes the conventional way is more than good enough, so why go the extra mile?
Then again I do see a potential benefit with a more tuned brake system on the car. Thing is, will it be better than all the cons?
So have you tried out the mechanical brakes on a Tekno car?
If so, please tell me
08-18-2015, 11:52 AM
Thanks for answering my question
Yes, I know the electro-clutch don't replace the center diff, just some bad explaining from my side, sorry for that.
What you are telling me about mechanical brakes will work with a pinion setup and not the electro-clutch is also an option to consider. But then again getting the free coasting with the electri-clutch is what I am looking for really. Hopefully this will give a car that feels very free and loose on the track.
I see that both Tekno and Amain has this as an discontinued product, so I guess this is not something people really are not much into I guess.
So it has to be something that did not 'take off' with this system, or it is just simply that an electric setup with the brakes the conventional way is more than good enough, so why go the extra mile?
Then again I do see a potential benefit with a more tuned brake system on the car. Thing is, will it be better than all the cons?
So have you tried out the mechanical brakes on a Tekno car?
If so, please tell me
Yes, I know the electro-clutch don't replace the center diff, just some bad explaining from my side, sorry for that.
What you are telling me about mechanical brakes will work with a pinion setup and not the electro-clutch is also an option to consider. But then again getting the free coasting with the electri-clutch is what I am looking for really. Hopefully this will give a car that feels very free and loose on the track.
I see that both Tekno and Amain has this as an discontinued product, so I guess this is not something people really are not much into I guess.
So it has to be something that did not 'take off' with this system, or it is just simply that an electric setup with the brakes the conventional way is more than good enough, so why go the extra mile?
Then again I do see a potential benefit with a more tuned brake system on the car. Thing is, will it be better than all the cons?
So have you tried out the mechanical brakes on a Tekno car?
If so, please tell me
Just wanted to inform you that the elektric clutch and traktion drive with mechanical brakes needs the following parts to be compatible with the SCT410: TKR5191, TKR5076, TKR5112x, TKR5210, TKR5107, TKR5075 (x2) and TKR5206X. A brake servo with 250 oz/in of torque or greater is also required.
This is because the 5206x was intended to be used with the 1/8th kits we have, since the SCT410 uses smaller drivetrain components they have to be replaced with the 1/8th parts for everything to install properly.
Hope this helps!
-Thomas
08-19-2015, 08:24 AM
08-19-2015, 09:16 AM
Tech Master
Only thing I consider a must upgrade is the split center diff. Just for ease of maintenance.
Also, check my sponsor in my sig, save yourself a couple bucks.
08-19-2015, 11:16 AM
Thanks ezlight - added the split center diff and lightened outdrives and some new diff fluid. Still trying to get caught up with the 410.2/3 versions and see if im really missing out on any cool parts.
On a side note if i've had diff and shock fluid sitting around in my garage for 2-3 years is still good or should i start replacing them?
On a side note if i've had diff and shock fluid sitting around in my garage for 2-3 years is still good or should i start replacing them?
Last edited by toast.; 08-19-2015 at 02:49 PM.
08-20-2015, 07:15 AM
Tech Master
Thanks ezlight - added the split center diff and lightened outdrives and some new diff fluid. Still trying to get caught up with the 410.2/3 versions and see if im really missing out on any cool parts.
On a side note if i've had diff and shock fluid sitting around in my garage for 2-3 years is still good or should i start replacing them?
On a side note if i've had diff and shock fluid sitting around in my garage for 2-3 years is still good or should i start replacing them?
as far as the .2-.3 upgrades on the v1, check out fierce also, he has a complete package that will give you all the new suspension geometry for the truck, and you can add the center diff to get a discount on that too. Pretty slick package.
09-04-2015, 06:11 AM
Got out to the track a couple days ago and had a ton of fun but need to do some adjustments. I was endowing almost everytime over a jump and had to correct it with more gas. As I come to look at it, the rear springs I think are shot. I have some extras to play with, but is there a few posts that have general "good" setups to start from? I want to start dialing this in as that was a ton of fun, but almost lost as to where to start. Looking for specs such as weight oils in the diffs, how much sag you should have in the suspension, what springs everyone seems to like etc. This was an outdoor track that was small, but had a layer of loose dirt over really compact almost clay type surface.
As an odd ball question, has anyone ever have a brand new hood that they painted, just start having the paint flake off like you never even painted it? I washed mine out, but at the last track outing, I think I left more paint on the track than I did on the body?
As an odd ball question, has anyone ever have a brand new hood that they painted, just start having the paint flake off like you never even painted it? I washed mine out, but at the last track outing, I think I left more paint on the track than I did on the body?