17LikesTekno SCT410 Thread
08-03-2015, 08:12 PM
Hey guys, I usually do not give advice as I know there are other members on this forum with far more knowledge that I have when it comes to the Tekno sct410 but I wanted to share my experience with the hope that it may help others out.
I've noticed a lot of comments about the dreaded nosedive starting to show back up on this thread and over on the 410.3 thread, which got me thinking about when I first got my sct410.1 a few months back. I bought the truck used, and when I first got my hands on it I ran it at the local track using the original owners set it up. The nose diving was so bad that I could not even make it one lap around the track without a faceplant or cartwheel and I remember thinking what did I get myself into? I should have listened to all the complaints about the dreaded nose dive and bought something else. So I took a good look at the set up, and compared it to some of the pro drivers Tekno set up sheets that are available on the Tekno website , and it was obvious that the original owner was battling the nose down issue but at the same time making it worse.
Here are a couple of things about the truck's set up that first caught my attention that maybe some others are doing. The truck had purple springs in the rear, the sway bars were over tightened making them act like a second spring, the battery was pushed all the way back to the center differential, small weights were installed to the back of the chassis, and the ride height was set with using the droop screws.
I installed pink springs in the front, yellow springs in the rear, readjusted the sway bar, readjusted the ride height and droop screws, moved the battery all the way forward, and removed the weights. Now it is a completely different truck. On a indoor clay track it jumps level and predictable and is very fun to drive. While yes if I hit the brakes mid flight I can make it nosedive or even do a cartwheel , but it never nosedives unexpectedly without operator error.
Sorry for the long post. I hope that maybe it will help someone in figuring out what is causing their truck to nosedive, because once you figure it out this truck is a blast to drive.
I've noticed a lot of comments about the dreaded nosedive starting to show back up on this thread and over on the 410.3 thread, which got me thinking about when I first got my sct410.1 a few months back. I bought the truck used, and when I first got my hands on it I ran it at the local track using the original owners set it up. The nose diving was so bad that I could not even make it one lap around the track without a faceplant or cartwheel and I remember thinking what did I get myself into? I should have listened to all the complaints about the dreaded nose dive and bought something else. So I took a good look at the set up, and compared it to some of the pro drivers Tekno set up sheets that are available on the Tekno website , and it was obvious that the original owner was battling the nose down issue but at the same time making it worse.
Here are a couple of things about the truck's set up that first caught my attention that maybe some others are doing. The truck had purple springs in the rear, the sway bars were over tightened making them act like a second spring, the battery was pushed all the way back to the center differential, small weights were installed to the back of the chassis, and the ride height was set with using the droop screws.
I installed pink springs in the front, yellow springs in the rear, readjusted the sway bar, readjusted the ride height and droop screws, moved the battery all the way forward, and removed the weights. Now it is a completely different truck. On a indoor clay track it jumps level and predictable and is very fun to drive. While yes if I hit the brakes mid flight I can make it nosedive or even do a cartwheel , but it never nosedives unexpectedly without operator error.
Sorry for the long post. I hope that maybe it will help someone in figuring out what is causing their truck to nosedive, because once you figure it out this truck is a blast to drive.
I am a definitive an amateur, so no worries there
I have done a set up on the car again after reinstalling the rebuild shocks and made a new setup sheet for my truck based on one of the Pro's setups at Tekno's site.
I checked and the car has yellow rear and pink front springs (as kit, not pink all around).
When it comes to binding, I build my truck very carefully and I have definitive no binding in parts such as sway bars etc. So my issues do not lay there (But thanks for the tip though). That is something I am very picky about, building cars that do not bind on anything.
So when you say you use yellow rear and pink front as mine I really do not know what to think about this truck anymore, and I am to do the battery mod to get more weight at rear and you have done the opposite to dial the car on jumps hehe...
New Tekin system in the truck, and off course with no drag brake at all.
I will try to test this truck this week or weekend and see what stiffer springs in rear combined with other pistons and oil weights will do, without doing the battery mod first and see. Thing is, others get the car to perform well so this is a head scratcher for sure. When we think about all the solutions that is brought to the table and some say this or that fixed it, without getting a consistence result to the issue.
Usually when a new car comes out, there is a solution to a specific and consistence issue like this, but not with this.
PS: Getting a weight system from SkyRC this week, so it will be interesting to see how the weight distribution is for sure...
08-04-2015, 05:52 AM
I've never had the nose diving issue with my truck or my son's. No battery tray mod with either truck. My guess is people are blowing through the rear suspension travel and chassis slapping the jump face. We usually run the truck with a bit higher ride height in the rear and no skid. We also run with a decent sized pinion so we have plenty of wheel speed if we need it. I understand people run skid plates to protect the chassis from a rocky track but they are bad from a performance perspective.
08-04-2015, 08:01 AM
I've never had the nose diving issue with my truck or my son's. No battery tray mod with either truck. My guess is people are blowing through the rear suspension travel and chassis slapping the jump face. We usually run the truck with a bit higher ride height in the rear and no skid. We also run with a decent sized pinion so we have plenty of wheel speed if we need it. I understand people run skid plates to protect the chassis from a rocky track but they are bad from a performance perspective.
08-04-2015, 08:37 AM
I recently swapped out with a used body that I bought from another racer who sold off his SCTE and the holes lined up perfectly with my Tekno... anyway he had drilled a bunch of holes on the rear of the body and left most of the front of the body untouched... this seems to make the car a bit more nose up most of the time now, I actually find that I need to tap the brake in mid air with this body cutout method
When I race at tracks with larger jumps, I find it necessary to run with extra pre-load in the rear to avoid nose diving too.
When I race at tracks with larger jumps, I find it necessary to run with extra pre-load in the rear to avoid nose diving too.
08-04-2015, 11:40 AM
Well I'm not team driver nor anything but I was fighting that issue a lot and all I do was get a new body vent it in the back took my rear shocks and bumped it up to 45wt and put team Associated blue springs in the rear and now I can sky fly that sucker
08-05-2015, 10:25 PM
Body design, mounting positions of bodies, and cutouts of bodies...all make a huge difference in how the trucks fly, especially on long big air jumps. They can only make things great if the suspension is good enough to get a good jump in the first place though.
If you start the jump in a bad position, such as a nose over, then look at suspension.
If you start the jump well but go bad halfway through the big air, look at the body.
Back in my days of running a Losi SCTE before the Tekno came out, I had the same problem on big tracks. The cure was to open up the front facing air scoop on the stock Losi body so it pulled air IN the front to help keep the front up, and then to cut off the back to let the back vent and drop. It only helped because the suspension let me jump though. I had similar issues with the Tekno as box stock when the first ones came out, and suspension changes (I run with everything fairly stiff) fixed it for all the bodies I ran (Losi, FTW, and a couple ProLine).
If you start the jump in a bad position, such as a nose over, then look at suspension.
If you start the jump well but go bad halfway through the big air, look at the body.
Back in my days of running a Losi SCTE before the Tekno came out, I had the same problem on big tracks. The cure was to open up the front facing air scoop on the stock Losi body so it pulled air IN the front to help keep the front up, and then to cut off the back to let the back vent and drop. It only helped because the suspension let me jump though. I had similar issues with the Tekno as box stock when the first ones came out, and suspension changes (I run with everything fairly stiff) fixed it for all the bodies I ran (Losi, FTW, and a couple ProLine).
08-06-2015, 02:21 PM
Hi man, pro or amateur, I appreciate all the feedbacks that get posted.
I am a definitive an amateur, so no worries there
I have done a set up on the car again after reinstalling the rebuild shocks and made a new setup sheet for my truck based on one of the Pro's setups at Tekno's site.
I checked and the car has yellow rear and pink front springs (as kit, not pink all around).
When it comes to binding, I build my truck very carefully and I have definitive no binding in parts such as sway bars etc. So my issues do not lay there (But thanks for the tip though). That is something I am very picky about, building cars that do not bind on anything.
So when you say you use yellow rear and pink front as mine I really do not know what to think about this truck anymore, and I am to do the battery mod to get more weight at rear and you have done the opposite to dial the car on jumps hehe...
New Tekin system in the truck, and off course with no drag brake at all.
I will try to test this truck this week or weekend and see what stiffer springs in rear combined with other pistons and oil weights will do, without doing the battery mod first and see. Thing is, others get the car to perform well so this is a head scratcher for sure. When we think about all the solutions that is brought to the table and some say this or that fixed it, without getting a consistence result to the issue.
Usually when a new car comes out, there is a solution to a specific and consistence issue like this, but not with this.
PS: Getting a weight system from SkyRC this week, so it will be interesting to see how the weight distribution is for sure...
I am a definitive an amateur, so no worries there
I have done a set up on the car again after reinstalling the rebuild shocks and made a new setup sheet for my truck based on one of the Pro's setups at Tekno's site.
I checked and the car has yellow rear and pink front springs (as kit, not pink all around).
When it comes to binding, I build my truck very carefully and I have definitive no binding in parts such as sway bars etc. So my issues do not lay there (But thanks for the tip though). That is something I am very picky about, building cars that do not bind on anything.
So when you say you use yellow rear and pink front as mine I really do not know what to think about this truck anymore, and I am to do the battery mod to get more weight at rear and you have done the opposite to dial the car on jumps hehe...
New Tekin system in the truck, and off course with no drag brake at all.
I will try to test this truck this week or weekend and see what stiffer springs in rear combined with other pistons and oil weights will do, without doing the battery mod first and see. Thing is, others get the car to perform well so this is a head scratcher for sure. When we think about all the solutions that is brought to the table and some say this or that fixed it, without getting a consistence result to the issue.
Usually when a new car comes out, there is a solution to a specific and consistence issue like this, but not with this.
PS: Getting a weight system from SkyRC this week, so it will be interesting to see how the weight distribution is for sure...
.As a reference for you, my current shock setup is 8x1.3mm Tekno pistons front and rear with 45 AE oil up front and 35 wt AE oil in the rear. My truck does jump nose down if my rear ride height is lower that 23mm, so I have it set at 24mm. I'm sure this is do to the rear of the truck bouncing off the face of the jump as already pointed out by fellow members. To rule out chassis slap causing your problem, maybe try raising your ride height like 5mm and see how it flies. If the nose down issue goes away work on trying to get more pack out of your rear shocks.
08-11-2015, 05:40 PM
Tech Rookie
Toe In and out.
Does any one know what degrees is right for 410.03 sc toe in and out. And camber
08-11-2015, 05:47 PM
There is no "right" or "wrong", it's an adjustment, for front and rear toe and front and rear camber. What are you trying to make the truck do or not do? Also, if it's a 410.3 you might want to check out the actual SCT410.3 thread.
08-11-2015, 06:15 PM
I'm currently upgrading my truck rear differential case to the angled version. After I swapped out the case using the same pinion shims per the v1 instructions and following the bearing shim instructions. No matter what combination of shims I use, the ring gear and pinion are not as smooth as when using the original case. Anyone experience this problem with the upgrade?
08-12-2015, 09:14 PM
That is NOT the same as has been generally getting used on the 410.3, which has a thread for it (and the different suspension geometry and handling characteristics) over here:
http://www.rctech.net/forum/electric...-3-thread.html
The .3 vehicles generally run more rear camber and less rear toe.
08-12-2015, 09:19 PM
I'm currently upgrading my truck rear differential case to the angled version. After I swapped out the case using the same pinion shims per the v1 instructions and following the bearing shim instructions. No matter what combination of shims I use, the ring gear and pinion are not as smooth as when using the original case. Anyone experience this problem with the upgrade?
If it is too loose, even with the ring shimmed as close to the pinion as possible, then, and only then, move a shim to the inside of the case from the outside.
Also double check that all your bearings are good and flush to where they should be, with the ring gear screwed in straight to the diff so it has no wobble.
08-13-2015, 10:53 AM
What's the deal with Tekno and parts warranty? My outdrive cups are pretty egged out and would like to get the upgraded ones, but I'm sure they don't let you upgrade while switching out do they?
08-13-2015, 11:33 AM
08-13-2015, 03:07 PM
Jesus i love this SC. The only part to go bad out of a group of 4 tekno sc was one simi taco'd rear shock tower! 