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the current limiter helps keep heat lower as well. I found it easier to drive overall with the limiter on 70% on my pro4 4600kv. You dont use the power when you think about it, especially on an outdoor track you just get spin.
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Originally Posted by Wildcat1971
(Post 12152392)
I assume a 3s 2800hd will still puff. Running to lvc will puff them quick as well.
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Well, I have not seen breakage issues in a while. I assume the broken axle issue is gone? I hope to be able to have the funds to buy a 4x4 soon. Seems like out of the box with spring and piston upgrades it runs strong. maybe toss on some alum hexes. Anything else changed in the last month or 2?
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for getting that sweet perfect balance (lol), get a dead servo and drop it in the break servo spot.
I would also pickup as spares a set of the hingepin braces if you don't want to shell out for t rear alloy set. The stock ones are pretty durable though. |
cain, who are you responding to, lol.
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Originally Posted by Cain
(Post 12155045)
for getting that sweet perfect balance (lol), get a dead servo and drop it in the break servo spot.
I would also pickup as spares a set of the hingepin braces if you don't want to shell out for t rear alloy set. The stock ones are pretty durable though. |
Originally Posted by Gary NJ
(Post 12154706)
Steve got it! The key is the current limiter - you've got to choke down the amp draw to a reasonable level. On 2S with these amp hog motors the batteries just can't keep. Get a little aggressive on the gearing, add in either high bite situations or loose situations where you're spinning the tires too much, and it's puff time...
The added bonus of running the current limiter pretty restricted is the low end is much more controllable, and as a result you usually end up going faster anyway. It has very little impact on top end if the straight is of any real length, because the amp draw is dropping at that point. |
Originally Posted by Wildcat1971
(Post 12155050)
cain, who are you responding to, lol.
Originally Posted by sramos
(Post 12155117)
steve?!?!?!?! sean you mean????
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Originally Posted by Cain
(Post 12155045)
for getting that sweet perfect balance (lol), get a dead servo and drop it in the break servo spot.
I would also pickup as spares a set of the hingepin braces if you don't want to shell out for t rear alloy set. The stock ones are pretty durable though. |
I put a dead servo in the rear too....
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Originally Posted by symmetricon
(Post 12155253)
I put a dead servo in the rear too....
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I tried the dead servo with stiffer rear springs an the truck would nose dive pretty bad still...took out servo and adjusted ride hieght and still had a slight nose drop problem....did battery tray mod....balanced out very nice in the air now.
Not saying the dead servo didnt work....just throwing out my tuning feed back. I have never gone over 24mm on ride hieght either....dang traction roll. Ohhhh yeah....remember the "wing" debate....well it did work for some nose diving issues...but the battery tray mod enabled me to trash the wing idea. |
Originally Posted by ButtDyno
(Post 12155342)
I tried the dead servo with stiffer rear springs an the truck would nose dive pretty bad still...took out servo and adjusted ride hieght and still had a slight nose drop problem....did battery tray mod....balanced out very nice in the air now.
Not saying the dead servo didnt work....just throwing out my tuning feed back. I have never gone over 24mm on ride hieght either....dang traction roll. Ohhhh yeah....remember the "wing" debate....well it did work for some nose diving issues...but the battery tray mod enabled me to trash the wing idea. |
Nah thats not too high. 29 is fine thats right where the driveshafts are flat and running most efficiently.
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servo hitting chassis in the SCT 410 what does everyone run ???
I put a savox sc-1233sg in the sct 410 seems to long hitting chassis.shimed it up to clear chassis looks like the servo will be too high.wont be inline with steering.spec say its 45.0mm high. what servo works??? what does everybody run.:weird:
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