246LikesXray XB4 thread
01-19-2016, 09:36 PM
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (23)
I think the 16 arms part numbers are as follows:
362112 front lower arms kit (composite)
362112-g front lower arms (graphite)
363111-g right lower rear arm (graphite)
363121-g left lower rear arm (graphite)
363111 right lower rear arm kit (composite)
363121 left lower rear arm kit (composite)
362112 front lower arms kit (composite)
362112-g front lower arms (graphite)
363111-g right lower rear arm (graphite)
363121-g left lower rear arm (graphite)
363111 right lower rear arm kit (composite)
363121 left lower rear arm kit (composite)
363111 right lower rear arm kit (composite) is the same number used for the '15 arm.
363121 left lower rear arm kit (composite) is the same number used for the '15 arm.
The front arm part number has changed from the '15 to '16 car and so has the shape. The rear arm part number has not.
01-19-2016, 11:33 PM
363111 right lower rear arm kit (composite) is the same number used for the '15 arm.
363121 left lower rear arm kit (composite) is the same number used for the '15 arm.
The front arm part number has changed from the '15 to '16 car and so has the shape. The rear arm part number has not.
363121 left lower rear arm kit (composite) is the same number used for the '15 arm.
The front arm part number has changed from the '15 to '16 car and so has the shape. The rear arm part number has not.
01-19-2016, 11:36 PM
I agree, the BB bumper does not do what I was hoping for.
I chose not to use the BB bumper because I believe that it will still hit the ground before the wheels even if it does help the lawn darting issue. An issue that is non-existent with other cars due to how far back the front bumper of the car is behind the front wheels. So for me it was not an option.
My car doesn't nose dive off every jump, but it can happen and works very well. In the right hands it's amazing and in my hands it's respectable. This is dirt offroad and it has it's inconsistencies that can cause this occasionally. Most of us see it from time to time and it was frustrating to happen on this car but not others so I did something about it. I'm simply eliminating the possibility of it, not reducing it or having to worry about driving around it.
I don't run drag brake, don't need it with a 13.5 motor.
I'm not asking for setup help, driving help, or other solutions. I'm just sharing what I did and wish the car was like out of the factory. Clearly I'm not the only one who's seen this issue and I'm sure that if this was a factory setup all of us would be happy with it. Nobody with a 22-4 or SRX4 is adding a bumper that sticks out further because it's simply not needed and now it's not needed on my XB4. Love it or hate it, my car simply won't lawn dart anymore.
I chose not to use the BB bumper because I believe that it will still hit the ground before the wheels even if it does help the lawn darting issue. An issue that is non-existent with other cars due to how far back the front bumper of the car is behind the front wheels. So for me it was not an option.
My car doesn't nose dive off every jump, but it can happen and works very well. In the right hands it's amazing and in my hands it's respectable. This is dirt offroad and it has it's inconsistencies that can cause this occasionally. Most of us see it from time to time and it was frustrating to happen on this car but not others so I did something about it. I'm simply eliminating the possibility of it, not reducing it or having to worry about driving around it.
I don't run drag brake, don't need it with a 13.5 motor.
I'm not asking for setup help, driving help, or other solutions. I'm just sharing what I did and wish the car was like out of the factory. Clearly I'm not the only one who's seen this issue and I'm sure that if this was a factory setup all of us would be happy with it. Nobody with a 22-4 or SRX4 is adding a bumper that sticks out further because it's simply not needed and now it's not needed on my XB4. Love it or hate it, my car simply won't lawn dart anymore.
01-19-2016, 11:54 PM
This is not difficult at all guys.
The '15 and '16 rear arms have the same part number, BUT the '16 arms either have a "V2" added or "Graphite".
If you are ordering online the store should mark the new '16 rear arms correctly with the added "V2" or "Graphite" to identify them as '16 parts.
If they choose not to do so it is of no fault to Xray.
An easy way to tell them apart is the '16 arms lack the 4 holes used to mount the carbon stiffener plates on the '15 arms.
For the front arms it's easier as they have new part numbers:
From left to right: '15 rear arm | '16 rear arm | '16 optional graphite rear arm
Bent
The '15 and '16 rear arms have the same part number, BUT the '16 arms either have a "V2" added or "Graphite".
If you are ordering online the store should mark the new '16 rear arms correctly with the added "V2" or "Graphite" to identify them as '16 parts.
If they choose not to do so it is of no fault to Xray.
An easy way to tell them apart is the '16 arms lack the 4 holes used to mount the carbon stiffener plates on the '15 arms.
For the front arms it's easier as they have new part numbers:
- 362111 = '15 front arm
- 362112 = '16 front arm
- 362112-G = '16 graphite front arm
From left to right: '15 rear arm | '16 rear arm | '16 optional graphite rear arm
Bent
01-20-2016, 12:04 AM
You say new arms!!! Why is Xray using the same part numbers for the '16 arms as they do for the '15 arms if the geometry is different? That's confusing.
Lets take Boarder RC for instance. Search 363111 and it bring up all right rear arms. It doesn't mention anything about the standard arm being a V2 version.
Xray cant expect us to use an arm from a '15 car (with 4 drilled holes) on a '16 car that you saying has different geometry on the arm?
That means if we replace an arm, we may have to replace both of them so we have the same type on both sides? Therefore our car is no longer a '16 car if we use the '15 arms that have a different geometry.
How are we meant to order the correct arms?
What is the difference in the arms?
I can see that the holes are filled in and some more material has been added around the shock mounting screw holes.
Lets take Boarder RC for instance. Search 363111 and it bring up all right rear arms. It doesn't mention anything about the standard arm being a V2 version.
Xray cant expect us to use an arm from a '15 car (with 4 drilled holes) on a '16 car that you saying has different geometry on the arm?
That means if we replace an arm, we may have to replace both of them so we have the same type on both sides? Therefore our car is no longer a '16 car if we use the '15 arms that have a different geometry.
How are we meant to order the correct arms?
What is the difference in the arms?
I can see that the holes are filled in and some more material has been added around the shock mounting screw holes.
Calm down Chris and read my latest post.
The suspension geometry is different on the '16 arms to match the new geometry of the shock towers.
The new arms are clearly marked with either a "V2" or "Graphite" to differentiate them from the '15 arms.
If the online shop you use choose NOT to label them correctly this is not Xray's fault but purely the responsibility of the said online store.
And an easy way to tell them apart is the '16 arms lack the 4 holes that were used to mount the carbon stiffener plates on the '15 arms.
So if the online store has updated pictures of the parts you would be able to tell them apart.
Same thing if they are located on the parts rack at your LHS.
The "V2" and lack of the 4 holes make them easy to identify as '16 arms.
All parts lists from Xray has the new arms labeled as NEW and updated for the '16 model highlighting the "V2" and "Graphite" marking.
It is the responsibility of the store owner to label them correctly for sale, not Xray's.
IF an online store chooses to sell old arms as new, please let them know so and also be kind enough to report this back to Xray as well.
From left to right: '15 rear arm | '16 rear arm | '16 optional graphite rear arm
Bent
01-20-2016, 01:33 AM
The graphite brace that we use for the Xray XB4 on high grip astro and carpet tracks.
It can also be used with the optional medium rear chassis brace (#361295) to further adjust flex according to traction and track conditions.
In order to use this Graphite brace the #361182 spacer must be removed first.
Bent
It can also be used with the optional medium rear chassis brace (#361295) to further adjust flex according to traction and track conditions.
In order to use this Graphite brace the #361182 spacer must be removed first.
New XB4 Graphite Chassis Brace Upper Deck 2.0mm
• Flex adjustment
• Increases stability
• Premium high-grade graphite
Optional graphite chassis brace fits in the lower part of the composite brace connected directly to the chassis, generating more stability. When using this brace, the composite rear lower brace must be removed. Machined from high-grade graphite material.
#361178 Graphite Chassis Brace Upper Deck 2.0mm
• Flex adjustment
• Increases stability
• Premium high-grade graphite
Optional graphite chassis brace fits in the lower part of the composite brace connected directly to the chassis, generating more stability. When using this brace, the composite rear lower brace must be removed. Machined from high-grade graphite material.
#361178 Graphite Chassis Brace Upper Deck 2.0mm
Last edited by BentKa; 01-20-2016 at 02:21 AM.
01-20-2016, 04:25 AM
Tech Adept
Correct, even better: the numbers that you're naming (363111 & 363121) were already used for the '14 model, so they've been reused quite a bit over the past 3 years.
01-20-2016, 05:21 AM
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (23)
Calm down Chris and read my latest post.
The suspension geometry is different on the '16 arms to match the new geometry of the shock towers.
The new arms are clearly marked with either a "V2" or "Graphite" to differentiate them from the '15 arms.
If the online shop you use choose NOT to label them correctly this is not Xray's fault but purely the responsibility of the said online store.
And an easy way to tell them apart is the '16 arms lack the 4 holes that were used to mount the carbon stiffener plates on the '15 arms.
So if the online store has updated pictures of the parts you would be able to tell them apart.
Same thing if they are located on the parts rack at your LHS.
The "V2" and lack of the 4 holes make them easy to identify as '16 arms.
All parts lists from Xray has the new arms labeled as NEW and updated for the '16 model highlighting the "V2" and "Graphite" marking.
It is the responsibility of the store owner to label them correctly for sale, not Xray's.
IF an online store chooses to sell old arms as new, please let them know so and also be kind enough to report this back to Xray as well.
From left to right: '15 rear arm | '16 rear arm | '16 optional graphite rear arm
Bent
The suspension geometry is different on the '16 arms to match the new geometry of the shock towers.
The new arms are clearly marked with either a "V2" or "Graphite" to differentiate them from the '15 arms.
If the online shop you use choose NOT to label them correctly this is not Xray's fault but purely the responsibility of the said online store.
And an easy way to tell them apart is the '16 arms lack the 4 holes that were used to mount the carbon stiffener plates on the '15 arms.
So if the online store has updated pictures of the parts you would be able to tell them apart.
Same thing if they are located on the parts rack at your LHS.
The "V2" and lack of the 4 holes make them easy to identify as '16 arms.
All parts lists from Xray has the new arms labeled as NEW and updated for the '16 model highlighting the "V2" and "Graphite" marking.
It is the responsibility of the store owner to label them correctly for sale, not Xray's.
IF an online store chooses to sell old arms as new, please let them know so and also be kind enough to report this back to Xray as well.
From left to right: '15 rear arm | '16 rear arm | '16 optional graphite rear arm
Bent
Bold and capital lettering.
Then based on Xray's previous rolling updates, the rear V2 arms are and will be replacing the '15/'14 arms? (good pickup Thaan)
Note: I have only asked one question in this reply and kept it to the point. Nice of you to blame retailers
and you also avoided answering the question on what geometry has changed on the new arms. Have the mounting holes moved, are the arms shorter/longer or is it just the 4 holes are filled in?Ops, that is two questions now.
01-20-2016, 05:43 AM
Aren't you fired today Bent.
Bold and capital lettering.
Then based on Xray's previous rolling updates, the rear V2 arms are and will be replacing the '15/'14 arms? (good pickup Thaan)
Note: I have only asked one question in this reply and kept it to the point. Nice of you to blame retailers and you also avoided answering the question on what geometry has changed on the new arms. Have the mounting holes moved, are the arms shorter/longer or is it just the 4 holes are filled in?
Ops, that is two questions now.
Bold and capital lettering.
Then based on Xray's previous rolling updates, the rear V2 arms are and will be replacing the '15/'14 arms? (good pickup Thaan)
Note: I have only asked one question in this reply and kept it to the point. Nice of you to blame retailers
and you also avoided answering the question on what geometry has changed on the new arms. Have the mounting holes moved, are the arms shorter/longer or is it just the 4 holes are filled in?Ops, that is two questions now.
I'm not going to bite on that one as I don't believe you are stupid enough to actually believe that but are rather just looking for a stupid argument.
As I have shown the packaging is clearly labeled to differentiate them from the previous version and the parts are also visually different.
In addition the parts list that have been sent out to distributors have been clearly marked with "NEW" and "Updated" and are specifically mentioned in the cross reference section as a replacement part for the old part.
And YES it is the end retailer's responsibility to make sure all the information is correct in their listings of the parts.
And I'm so sorry that I missed a small part of your question…….can you ever forgive me Chris
I herby solemnly swear to always read your posts 3 times to make sure I answer all your questions to the point, in a timely manner and grammatically correct to avoid any confusions on your part :roll eyes:
The new suspension arms have the shock mounting positions moved outwards on the arm to match the new geometry of the new shock towers.
The front arms also have the mounting points moved forward on the arm to add overall steering.
Satisfied ?
Bent
01-20-2016, 05:54 AM
Oh well, guess ill have to buy some new arms off the interwebs. I had to change out one of my front arms the other day so the left side of my car now has different geometry than the right.... Does amain list these parts correctly?
01-20-2016, 05:59 AM
Took me 3 seconds:
http://www.amainhobbies.com/search?s=362112
Correct part numbers and images of the '16 parts.
Same for the rear arms:
http://www.amainhobbies.com/search?s=363111
'15 and '16 arms labeled correct and with matching images.
Bent
01-20-2016, 06:00 AM
And I figured I was way off, that's why I asked.. lol
01-20-2016, 06:02 AM
How about just searching the part number on the AmainHobbies site ?
Took me 3 seconds:
http://www.amainhobbies.com/search?s=362112
Correct part numbers and images of the '16 parts.
Same for the rear arms:
http://www.amainhobbies.com/search?s=363111
'15 and '16 arms labeled correct and with matching images.
Bent
Took me 3 seconds:
http://www.amainhobbies.com/search?s=362112
Correct part numbers and images of the '16 parts.
Same for the rear arms:
http://www.amainhobbies.com/search?s=363111
'15 and '16 arms labeled correct and with matching images.
Bent
01-20-2016, 06:02 AM
have you tried running 1 dot up in springs for the front and rear. I ordered me some and it helped alot. but I am not running the 1.6 and 1.7 pistons, instead I am running the 2+2 1.1x1.6 and 1.1x1.7 pistons with 35wt and 32.5wt. this seems to be my setup at tight small tracks and on the bigger track i go up 2.5wt in the front and rear. oyeah I am also not running and up or downstops at all. Also have the eyelet unscrewed 1.5 turns from full tight.
btw i was just looking at your last setup sheet you posted and it shows you are running 3mm in both front and rear upstop, take those out. also your shocks are laid down, atleast on the shock tower, try to stand them up more, front on the tower, rear on the a arm.
btw i was just looking at your last setup sheet you posted and it shows you are running 3mm in both front and rear upstop, take those out. also your shocks are laid down, atleast on the shock tower, try to stand them up more, front on the tower, rear on the a arm.
I just ordered the Avid pistons to give that setup a shot. And we've been talking about standing our front shocks up, but the car gets way too aggressive then. May have to change from tires too.
01-20-2016, 06:06 AM
On another note I did run this setup on my smaller hard packed dirt track and it was really good and predictable. Only thing I did otherwise was moved to the front hole of the steering plate.
http://site.petitrc.com/setup/xray/s...Louis20151122/
http://site.petitrc.com/setup/xray/s...Louis20151122/