Troy Carter

iTrader: (22)

Who here runs their XB4 (any year) on tacky clay?

Do you have any issue with how far the front toe block and protective cover stick out digging into the clay when you land nose-down? Our local track is pretty soft clay that easily gets divots and dents from cars. Soft enough in spots to see your footprint when you walk on it. Even with the cover removed the FF block would catch the track and dig in for me.

My 2013 XB4 handles like a dream but has been relegated to my backup car because I'm a mediocre off-road racer and I was having issues with landing consistently with this car on our track. I would almost always have one or two incidents on race nights that caught me out when I would land with the nose too far down and the car would just stop or flip over. It also took a fair bit of my concentration to be sure I didn't do this which didn't make me any faster.

I've been driving a TLR 22-4 I picked up instead just to avoid this issue and the TLR is more consistent over a race length in big part because it can pull out of many less than perfect landings. The front end of the TLR is set well behind the front wheels of the car and you can literally land straight up and down and drive out of it. The D413 is much better than the XB4 but will still catch if you really get it wrong. The new Serpent is super tidy like the TLR and has no issues with this.

Last week I got tired of worrying about this and not using the XB4 so I hacked up the front of the car. I milled down the front of the lower bulkhead 3mm and pushed the FF block back into the bulkhead. I had to clearance the front arms to clear the block in this position and I lost the two front bulkhead mounting screws in the process. I also took a grinder to the block and chassis to shorten the chassis and bevel the lower edge of the FF block. Now the FF block, without the little bumper, is pushed back far enough that I can land nose-down at almost any angle and not have it dig into the track.

This has transformed my car! It's amazing to drive and worry free when hitting jumps. I've only got a few packs through it so far so I'm not sure how durable it is like this but I didn't hold back at all with it and it's hanging tough so far. But, I'm not sure I'm willing to make this XB4 my primary car and still worry about how strong this setup is right now. I'l. keep using it but my TLR is staying until I know this is solid.

Also, this does effect how much of a change the FF pills make when switching them but not by much so it was worth trying and I'm glad that I did for sure.









So my final prayer would be that Xray makes a similar change to the 2017 car. I think that would be the thing that I need to come back to the XB4 as my primary 4wd car.

suby723

iTrader: (21)

Sorry but that is completely unnecessary. When I run on clay I use a bugle boy racing front bumper. Highly recommend this front bumper.

MaricopaAgent

iTrader: (28)

Nice idea.. The bumper does stick out a little far..Especially for not so great drivers like myself.

Milling would be an issue on 15 cars, as they don't have the center bulkhead screws . Only 4, instead of 6 in the chassis. But I do believe the holes are in the bulkhead, so you could drill the chassis.

suby723

iTrader: (21)

The bumper hardley sticks out in fact you need to remove the front plastic bumper guard piece to get the bumper to work. This is a pic of it mounted on my old 15 car. On the 15+ car you just cut the back mounting holes off the bumper and use just the front holes.

QDRHRSE

iTrader: (515)

After 6 weeks of running an xb4 2016 on wet dirt in the cold I decided to get a second car for blue groove and clay. Although the setups are different the cars seem to feel the same no matter what I do to them. The second car is stiffer with heavier diff oils and has a center diff. I was short on spare speedos and all I had laying around was a Hobbywing Justock XR10 speedo. I mated that to a certified Trinity D4 13.5 and it was slow as heck but good enough to TQ and win. Its gotta be the easiest to drive RC car that I've ever had. Keeps getting better! Nothing leaks and nothing has broken yet.....

suby723

iTrader: (21)

That's awesome, glad to see the xb4 working very well for you. Are you racing the 13.5 in mod? Man I can't imagine running my car with anything less then a 6.5! I'm sure my tracks are a little different though.

kuruption

iTrader: (24)

Anyone experiencing the car slapping off of jumps? Both myself and another XB4 driver are plagued with these issues. He is running 1000cSt in the front and 900cSt in the rear shocks (with the 1.6 and 1.7 pistons) and still having issues. I'm running 800/700 with 1.4 and 1.6, but that is getting a bit ridiculous.

I am wondering if anyone else is experiencing this? Car is slap-happy unless we are perfect on the downside of every jump, but the track is made of wooden jumps spaced for a stock buggy with small downsides so we're not 100% perfect with the downsiding thing.

QDRHRSE

iTrader: (515)

Yeah, I was running mod. Our track is pretty big compared to a lot of other 1/10 scale tracks. Its about 70-75 x 115. We have 1 long straight and I was losing a lot of time. Thankfully the track has a lot of technical stuff and I was able to maintain good steady speed throughout the whole track. This time of year we run the track wet and dry so when its not wet it never really grooves up. Once again, I'm really impressed with how the book setup works on medium to low traction. For a car that was supposed to be run on carpet and turf it really holds the track well.

sealander

iTrader: (11)

Try using less upstops, be carful the bones don't bind on the outdrives.

symmetricon

iTrader: (27)

You're running 1.4x2 hole 800cst front and 1.6x2 hole 700cst rear?!

Racer Tick

iTrader: (1)

Does anybody know if the front shock tower from the 16 will fit the 15?

jakeb

iTrader: (3)

Anyone?

RobsRacin

iTrader: (13)

Jake we ordered a bunch of the pins as well as the tool for the shop. They are actually 3x12 and are actually PN#HUD106051 The 2x10 you are looking at go inside with diffs, while 2x9.8's are for the attaching the axle to the driveshaft, they are shorter and allow the retainer to slide over them.

randy0025

iTrader: (11)

have you tried running 1 dot up in springs for the front and rear. I ordered me some and it helped alot. but I am not running the 1.6 and 1.7 pistons, instead I am running the 2+2 1.1x1.6 and 1.1x1.7 pistons with 35wt and 32.5wt. this seems to be my setup at tight small tracks and on the bigger track i go up 2.5wt in the front and rear. oyeah I am also not running and up or downstops at all. Also have the eyelet unscrewed 1.5 turns from full tight.

btw i was just looking at your last setup sheet you posted and it shows you are running 3mm in both front and rear upstop, take those out. also your shocks are laid down, atleast on the shock tower, try to stand them up more, front on the tower, rear on the a arm.

BentKa

You are way way off on shock setup.

What kind of surface are you running on ?

You say wooden jumps. Are you on astro or carpet ?

Bent