micholix

Dear Bent,

I do have a not brand specific question about tires and inserts/foam to you, my you can clarify that to me, as i see, you are always willing to help people?

I plan on to do some practice on carpet over the wintertime and do have schumacher mini pins -the pre glued EOS version- and some wide staggers -only the rubber-, so my question would be, witch inserts/foams do you prefere and do you trim the foams? If so, how exactly do you trim them?
These would be for my 4wd car.

I saw your comment and picture on the xb2 thread, am i right, you use 4wd front wheels and cut the inner raw, for 2wd?
What inserts/foams you prefere to use on your xb2?



Thanks in advace and

BentKa

For the front 4WD Wide Stagger tires we use the Schumacher Front Medium foam U6733.

For the 2WD we use the 2WD front wheels and cut them down to fit the narrow 2WD Stagger tires (see picture below).

The #329910 are slightly narrower than the 4WD front wheels (#369912).

Use a set of curved body scissors and it will take 2-3 seconds pr wheel

For the front 2WD Stagger tires we never use foams inside.

They are meant to be run without foams and definitely work better this way





Bent

micholix

Hello Bent,

Thank you for that info, i do much appreciat that!

raved007

iTrader: (36)

Hi Bent,
I have xb4 '15 could you tell me what is total transmission ratio? Thanks waiting for your input.

BentKa

You can find all specifications here:

http://www.teamxray.com/xb4/2015/specs/



Bent

raved007

iTrader: (36)

Thank You for your quick reply

ResultsRC

iTrader: (1)

im getting much better results outa the diffs with my spacers installed on both gears in the diffs, ive broken another front bulkhead though,does anyone know where i can get the reinforced 16 front bulkhead. hopefully ill have better long term luck with that. someone here said either the front or rear bulkhead would work with the prev model years shock towers if they were clearanced a bit with a dremel? does front or rear require mods to work?

BentKa

Both front and rear '16 bulkheads fit, but you will have to clearence the rear shock tower a bit to make room for the reinforcements.



Bent

ResultsRC

iTrader: (1)

thanks good to know,where is the best place to order 16 bulkheads in the USA? Also would be nice to see xray make a little brace for the front diff from carbon that connects the lower hole on the front bulk head where the thicker part of the plastic is,everyone of mine has broke off right where the second screw hole goes through it,there is very little plastic there. 10 cents worth of carbon would completly fix that issue,hopefully the reinforced plastic on the back side will solve the issue,but a tiny extension of carbon connecting those 3 holes would certainly bullet proof it further

kuruption

iTrader: (24)

The reinforced bulkheads on the 16 solve this problem. I have had several "questionable" nose dives without any issue... I keep a spare just in case, but I have a feeling it won't be used.

You should be able to get a bulkhead from amain or absolute hobbyz... if neither have it, try calling RC America.

Absolute: http://www.absolutehobbyz.com/XRAY-D..._p_508077.html
Amain: http://www.amainhobbies.com/rc-cars-...362002/p476472

ResultsRC

iTrader: (1)

Good to hear the new bulkhead is better. Wish these little metal braces would have went down to the last hole in bottom back on the 13 model when they came out. Would have saved a lot of broken bulkheads. Why they didn't make them to do that is a mystery to me

ResultsRC

iTrader: (1)

Front side of brace

BentKa

Because then you would transfer all the forces to the shock tower instead and people would snap the much more expensive carbon part (which they also did back in '13 when people made these braces).

The '16 bulkheads are super strong and the shock towers are more beefed up than ever.

If you still keep breaking the '16 parts you either need to slow down and work on keeping the 4 round black things on the ground or go buy a Traxxas.....lol



Bent

BentKa

That brace was made for the rear shock tower to prevent the tower to snap where you attach the camber link.

The towers where later updated to 3.5mm in the front and both front and rear towers had material added to the camber link mounting area

Bent

ResultsRC

iTrader: (1)

I see how the brace could help with the camber link area but having the brace go down to the 3rd bolt on the bulkhead would not have caused the tower to crack. The load is still on the bulkhead this way just the thicker part of the plastic. Rather than the super thin upper plastic part.
Most all my broken bulkheads have been from landing jumps flat not crashing. This last one broke from another car clipping me in a corner and hitting the tower