246LikesXray XB4 thread
11-11-2015, 10:50 PM
#9288
Wondering if any one else has the same problem, i set my car up with the motor in the rear position but the nut and screw that holds the side pod to the chassis just behind the motor is stoping me from fitting my motor, the only way i can get my motor in is not to run that screw which means that the side pod will only be held by 2 screws the one at the front and the one at the rear, any ideas would be greatly appreciated.
Be interested to hear other people's experience.
11-11-2015, 10:59 PM
#9289
Wondering if any one else has the same problem, i set my car up with the motor in the rear position but the nut and screw that holds the side pod to the chassis just behind the motor is stoping me from fitting my motor, the only way i can get my motor in is not to run that screw which means that the side pod will only be held by 2 screws the one at the front and the one at the rear, any ideas would be greatly appreciated.
As the rearward position is meant for really loose low grip conditions you can run it without the screw/nut without issues
Bent
11-11-2015, 11:03 PM
#9290
but it's not quite as hard as a Durango. We're running full size servo, 2 x capacitor banks and extra fan for the 4.5T motor with space to spare. The '15 and '16 have a lot more space for electronics than the '13 and '14 had
Bent
11-11-2015, 11:10 PM
#9291
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (23)
Wondering if any one else has the same problem, i set my car up with the motor in the rear position but the nut and screw that holds the side pod to the chassis just behind the motor is stoping me from fitting my motor, the only way i can get my motor in is not to run that screw which means that the side pod will only be held by 2 screws the one at the front and the one at the rear, any ideas would be greatly appreciated.
Why put 2 holes in for the battery position and not motor position. ops.
I hope they do a rolling update on the chassis one day. I think we can manage to drill a 3mm hole in the side guard.
11-11-2015, 11:30 PM
#9292
Is it normal for the 2016 xb4 to be very loud when you use it? I had a 2014 one and it was pretty quiet when i raced it.
I was curious if the newer steel ring/pinion gears are what makes it so loud...or do i need to look at things closer? My gear mesh is perfect. It just sounds really loud compared to all the other cars at the track.
Anyone?
I was curious if the newer steel ring/pinion gears are what makes it so loud...or do i need to look at things closer? My gear mesh is perfect. It just sounds really loud compared to all the other cars at the track.
Anyone?
As likea45 says the steel gears are louder than the composite gears that were standard in the '13 and '14.
The '16 should however be comparable to the '15 in terms of how it sounds.
Just remember to grease the gears and make sure gear mesh is okay for the pinion/spur.
I've also witnessed some managing to not have the bearings for the spur entirely seated causing the spur to not track straight
Bent
11-11-2015, 11:37 PM
#9293
If you really want to run that last screw either drill a new 3mm hole (takes 30 seconds including countersinking it) or use a low profile nut instead of the standard one (or just Dremel it down).
Bent
11-12-2015, 12:23 AM
#9294
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (23)
It would help greatly if you rotate the ESC 90* to the right, run smaller wires and run them through the lower front brace for the battery and esc.
We're running full size servo, 2 x capacitor banks and extra fan for the 4.5T motor with space to spare. The '15 and '16 have a lot more space for electronics than the '13 and '14 had
Bent
We're running full size servo, 2 x capacitor banks and extra fan for the 4.5T motor with space to spare. The '15 and '16 have a lot more space for electronics than the '13 and '14 had
Bent
I finally found the pictures of Bruno's car (body off) again. Turning around the ESC by 90* didn't work for me last night as one of motor wires were hitting the motor mount. I did notice that Bruno positions his ESC towards the outer of the chassis where I had mine closer to the centre line of the chassis. I think when I tried it, the steering bellcrank was hitting the wires coming out of the ESC and that's why I didn't like it facing that way.
I'll has look at it again.
I have never been a fan of running the battery wires via the brace. Having to unsoldering a brand new ESC just sounds like a silly thing to do. I'm always worried about blowing it up before I use it.
11-12-2015, 01:17 AM
#9295
It would help greatly if you rotate the ESC 90* to the right, run smaller wires and run them through the lower front brace for the battery and esc.
We're running full size servo, 2 x capacitor banks and extra fan for the 4.5T motor with space to spare. The '15 and '16 have a lot more space for electronics than the '13 and '14 had
Bent
We're running full size servo, 2 x capacitor banks and extra fan for the 4.5T motor with space to spare. The '15 and '16 have a lot more space for electronics than the '13 and '14 had
Bent
11-12-2015, 06:50 AM
#9297
Tech Master
For those that are running 13.5 class with your XB4, what are you running for gearing? I've searched, and seen most are dropping their spur gears down a few teeth. Is this 100% necessary? Can you reach good gearing & speed with the stock spur? If it matters, I have a 2014 xb4. And have a speed passion 13.5 motor I'm throwing in to try the class out.
11-12-2015, 07:02 AM
#9298
For those that are running 13.5 class with your XB4, what are you running for gearing? I've searched, and seen most are dropping their spur gears down a few teeth. Is this 100% necessary? Can you reach good gearing & speed with the stock spur? If it matters, I have a 2014 xb4. And have a speed passion 13.5 motor I'm throwing in to try the class out.
11-12-2015, 08:50 AM
#9299
Composite chassis brace Rear - Medium #361295
Should be in stock with distributors/dealers that ordered when they first became available
Bent
11-12-2015, 08:55 AM
#9300
As you can see in my photo I'm running my wires under the front brace but with the motor in rear position it comes up 5mm short so the wires keep piping out, i was wondering if you (bentka) could give me a suggestion what to do cause at the moment if they pop out they will go straight into my spur gear which will eventually lead to a DNF or even worse a short circuit. Thanks in advance.
You don't want to swap out for thinner and more flexible wires ?
We use thinner and more flexible 13ga ORCA wire (TQ Racing also have this) and direct the wires straight out from the esc instead of straight up.
The thinner and more flexible wire also don't have any pull to them so they stay in place.
Bent