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Old 06-21-2015, 08:35 PM
  #8476  
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I am very happy with 1.6 front and 1.7 rear. I drilled the blank pistons and have been working great.
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Old 06-22-2015, 07:09 AM
  #8477  
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Originally Posted by RC America
The smallest XRAY spur for the slipper is a 75T. If using the center diff, the smallest available is a 78T.

- Bryan
Ae Spurs work 69-87 you just have to drill or team them out a bit!
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Old 06-22-2015, 07:17 AM
  #8478  
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Originally Posted by suby723
I am very happy with 1.6 front and 1.7 rear. I drilled the blank pistons and have been working great.
What size of drill when you drilling blank piston?
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Old 06-22-2015, 07:13 PM
  #8479  
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Originally Posted by raved007
What size of drill when you drilling blank piston?
1/16 is 1.6 and #52 is 1.7
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Old 06-22-2015, 10:27 PM
  #8480  
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Anyone running the xray aluminum rear hubs? The offset pivot pin and the fact that the hubs are narrower than the stock plastic is throwing me off. What's the set up? It seems to me it would have been best if the hubs came with a couple more spacers and pins with the notch in the center.
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Old 06-24-2015, 09:05 PM
  #8481  
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anyone found the diff case braces in the states for sale yet?
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Old 06-25-2015, 12:53 AM
  #8482  
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Need a good outdoor clay set up. Semi dusty hard packed. Thanks!
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Old 06-25-2015, 01:21 AM
  #8483  
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Originally Posted by likea45
Need a good outdoor clay set up. Semi dusty hard packed. Thanks!
Saddles or shorty? Bumpy or smooth?
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Old 06-25-2015, 01:29 AM
  #8484  
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Originally Posted by rcgod
Saddles or shorty? Bumpy or smooth?
Well, atleast in my XB4 (2013/2014) most problems comes with rear traction (not enought) in outdoor tracks. Shorty setup moves CoG even more forward so I would guess saddle is better for outdoor (and shorty for high traction indoor track).
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Old 06-25-2015, 01:34 AM
  #8485  
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Originally Posted by MiG77
Well, atleast in my XB4 (2013/2014) most problems comes with rear traction (not enought) in outdoor tracks. Shorty setup moves CoG even more forward so I would guess saddle is better for outdoor (and shorty for high traction indoor track).
I'm asking what battery setup he's going to run. The setup will be different depending on which one. I agree that saddles would be better but he might only have shorty packs.
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Old 06-25-2015, 01:50 AM
  #8486  
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Is anyone else stripping the rear 14t bevel gear I've been threw 2 in a couple weeks, is this a common problem? Is there a fix or should i try the composite ones. TIA
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Old 06-25-2015, 01:52 AM
  #8487  
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Hi can someone tell me How does removing the front and rear top deck effect the xb4.
And is better to remove the front or rear or both. TIA
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Old 06-25-2015, 05:27 AM
  #8488  
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Originally Posted by MiG77
Well, atleast in my XB4 (2013/2014) most problems comes with rear traction (not enought) in outdoor tracks. Shorty setup moves CoG even more forward so I would guess saddle is better for outdoor (and shorty for high traction indoor track).
I think in most cases you prob have a worn diff case even though its not cracked or broken its prob time to replace it and a small shim to push the lil gear closer to the bigger gear helps alot. I just over hauled my 13 with new cases and bearings due to sloppy bearings in the cases .
All the best.
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Old 06-25-2015, 10:44 AM
  #8489  
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Originally Posted by HSV427
Hi can someone tell me How does removing the front and rear top deck effect the xb4.
And is better to remove the front or rear or both. TIA
I have tried basically all combinations and this is what I found, for me. My normal track is indoor medium to medium-high grip. It is SCVRC for anyone who is familiar.

I started with "stock" with both top decks installed and the car is very predictable. The current layout has some sharp 180 degree turns and with both top decks installed, I was having a hard time getting the car to have enough grip and rotate properly so my next step was to allow the car to have more flex.

Next, I ran the car with no rear top deck, but still with the front deck installed. You instantly notice the difference and while the car felt better initially, I found this setup a bit inconsistent. What I mean is that I expected to have more rear grip, but it is ALOT of flex and it gets a little unpredictable, especially in the rear end. Seemed like it was too much flex directed to the rear. I found myself chasing the rear end and wanting more rear grip. I had plenty of steering, but the rear would step out on me without much warning.

I then put the rear top deck back on and ran with both top decks, but removed all of the optional flex screws on the bottom of the chassis. This was good and got its predictability back, but the car never felt like it reached its full potential. I would say that the car was consistent and predictable, but not as fast as it could be.

Then, Xray released the #361168 option which allows you to completely remove the front and rear top deck and that is what I tried next. I used the x brace #361173 in addition to the #361168 and this is when the car came alive. I used all flex screws in the chassis and all flex screws on the #361168 braces and the car has plenty of grip and rotates extremely well. It is better in every way. More forward grip, more side grip, rotates better, and is consistent. If anyone is on the fence about trying this option, it is probably one of the best tuning options available.

At the end of the day, adding/removing the top decks affects flex of the car. At this point, I can't see any need to go back to having the front and rear top deck. The options xray released just make the car better(for me at my track). One thing to note is I also found the floating servo mount to make the car better in terms of evening out the flex. I also run in shorty configuration.

Hope this helps.
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Old 06-25-2015, 11:23 AM
  #8490  
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Thanks Freeski for that very well written report, you've described my situation as well, so I will look to try the new lower stiffeners now.

Would you mind posting your set up as well?

My track is a little larger than yours, but similar in a number of ways as well with respect to grip and layout.
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