rcgod

iTrader: (33)

No one said the car is inferior. You act like this isn't a big deal. If it isn't then why are you running offset rear inserts? The only reason you know about running offset inserts or the issue at all is some of us are willing to share the info. Your post is pretty damn disrespectful imo.

I have figured out a way to fix the offset and get the rear toe back to 3 deg per side. It's pretty easy and doesn't take long. If anyone wants to know pm me and I'll share it. I'm done trying to help out people that don't appreciate it. (Qwkrn U)

suby723

iTrader: (21)

Toe even or not it's still an amazing car and the best wheeler on the market imo.

Dos Andos

iTrader: (32)

Ran mine Saturday on a pretty loose outdoor clay track in shorty configuration...
Car was very good out of the box with centre diff. Made only a couple of minor changes. Car is completely different than the previous model. Very agile, jumps better and changes direction in a blink of an eye.
Didn't notice the rear end playing up even tough my toe block is offset also.
Anyone else driven theirs yet or tried making changes to the rear to see if it had an effect?

kevinpratt823

iTrader: (12)

Wow. First of all, like it was already said, if we weren't on here "complaining", you and your sponsored buddy would still be driving crooked cars. The majority of the "complaints" had nothing to do with the quality of the car, they are about poor customer/product support, and Xray completely dodging the issue with a total lack of accountability. In fact most of us still acknowledge that it is the best option out there still.

Because of the complaining, you are now aware that of the 54 available positions of adjustment in the rear end not one of them gives you a symmetrical rear end, there are however about 5-6 options that will actually keep the car symmetrical when you mis-match inserts, your welcome for that.

It also blows my mind that some sponsored drivers are just picking up on this via this thread while a guy like me, this being my first Xray, notices it the first week......And FYI, tell your sponsored buddy to check his car, it is likely still crooked with the '14 brace on there, maybe you didn't read enough of the complaining, but the '14 brace has the offset also.

Now, if you'll excuse me, I'm glad you raced last night, but I race on Sunday, so I have to get my stuff ready. You act as though we all quit the hobby because of this or something.........

Qwkrn U

iTrader: (133)

You guys are reading my post all wrong. It was meant to add a little humor to the thread. The issue needs a permanent fix for sure, but in the meantime it's not like we can't still use the cars and enjoy our toys.

rcgod

iTrader: (33)

Yah I did take your post wrong then. Sorry.

I'm working on a step by step guide with pics I'll post here later today. Calipers will be required to get it centered accurately. Even a cheap pair is better than nothing (eyeballs). The wife is dragging me to church, so I'll post it up after. I've also contacted a friend that makes aftermarket rc car parts, so hopefully there will be a better solution soon. I'd like to see his toe block be available for less than $30 but that's his decision.

rcgod

iTrader: (33)

And to the guys that pm'd me, hold tight the info will be posted here in a while.

Norse

iTrader: (43)

Thank you RCGOD, much appreciated my friend

rcgod

iTrader: (33)

Guys I've added a couple pics to my Dropbox of my digital scales with saddles and shorty setup. Seeing the lighter weight at each wheel and different weight distribution with shorty, and after doing some testing at the track, I made some spring changes. I was running 3 dot front and 1 dot rear with saddles and the car was great. It was not as good with shorty and same springs. Felt too stiff and skatey. I went to red ae front and black ae rear, no other changes and the car was really good. I dropped the spring rates in relation to the percentage of lighter corner weights. Please give some feedback if you try it.

https://www.dropbox.com/sh/m5h99p73q...MaJXbMJTa?dl=0

Qwkrn U

iTrader: (133)

Not sure What track conditions you are running on but
For our clay mix medium to high bite track
This is the setup we have been running for shocks/springs Front 1.7 2 hole Pistons Kyosho gold springs 35wt losi oil

Center diff with 100-300k fluid

Rear 1.6 2 hole 27.5wt losi Kyosho white rear or pink on the shorty car

losi8_79

iTrader: (1)

If that`s the case should not this be applied at the front of the car as well?

HeavyD99

iTrader: (15)

On another note, no Martin Bayer, Wollonka, Matias, or even TV at the Reedy Race this weekend?

...just noticed Josh Wheeler is 46th or so in 4wd Open....

rcgod

iTrader: (33)

Ok guys here is the info on how to fix the rear toe:

1. Measure your rear toe block to confirm it's off and how much. Mine is off .020"

2. Take 2 inserts and put them on the ends of the hinge pin for easier handling. You need to take off half of the measured number that you got from the toe block from one side of the inserts. Mine was off .020" so I took .010" from one side of each insert. My inserts measured .232" across where they key into the toe block, so I was shooting for .222"

3. Take a piece of sandpaper wrapped around something flat, use a file, or an emery board works also. I used an emery board. It's what women use to file their nails. Shhh don't tell the girlfriend/wife. Slowly sand off the amount you need to from one side of the inserts checking often with the calipers. Try to keep the side as flat as you can. You'll probably notice material comes off easily across the insert, but not in the corner where the insert lip is. No big deal. Just use and exacto knife or razor blade and clean up that area to make it match the rest of the insert.

4. Once you get the insert sanded evenly to the width you want, blend the radiused corners on the sides where you just sanded slightly. If you don't the radius will be too small and the insert won't fit properly in the mount. Just a couple light swipes with the sandpaper will do.

5. Now you have to either build up the other side of the insert .010" or find a shim the correct thickness. Maybe a piece of paper doubled up or thin piece of plastic. I used a drop of thick CA glue. I let the glue dry, measured the thickness of the insert, and sanded the CA glue down until the inserts measured .232" across. The glue is a lot softer than the insert so go lightly it doesn't take much to get it to the right width.

6. Put one insert in the right side of the hanger with the offset in, and the other insert in the left side with the offset out. Mine came out even to the mounting holes within .002"

If I had some CA kicker to make the glue dry the whole process would have taken me 15 to 30 minutes. This will get the toe back to 3.0 degrees and even. If you want to run 3.5 or 2.5 degrees skip this whole process and use a .5 insert on one side and a 0 insert on the other.

Here are some pics:
https://www.dropbox.com/sh/hktqwtker...fKkBQ2mga?dl=0

rraden

iTrader: (259)

Yes, my exact thoughts! Heck, even SWorks, Serpent, and Schumacher have multiple drivers there. What's up Xray?

Back to the XB4, had an opportunity to run my 2015 with a center diff and I was extremely pleased on the handling improvements over the 2014 model. Car was balanced, didn't want to swap ends in tight turns, and jumped great.

protc3

iTrader: (13)

Not to kick a dead horse here but I really find it unusual that the block is off that much. Xray has always been very accurate. It sounds like the mold was made wrong or the block. Holes don't move during cooling, they shrink. It would be so much easier for them to just make accommodating hinge pin blocks and call it a day. Modifying the mold would be pretty pricey. Just my .02.


On a side note, you guys are on point.lol Picking up on little details like that is pretty impressive.