advpball

iTrader: (30)

everyone is waiting for 2015....or there just that good and don't need anything...lol

Wease

iTrader: (77)

Ironically, I'm trying to get my 2014 model to act more like my 2013. My 2014 is super loose in the rear end and I'm driving on a high traction clay track with slicks. It seems like my XB4 has soo much front traction and forward bite, that the buggy drives from the front of the car and just slings the rear end around behind it. Any suggestions on taking away some of the forward bite? What would the arm position be on the 2014 model with the shims that would correspond to the wider 2013 arms?

joeymdz

iTrader: (13)

What setup are you running? Putting the shims/spacers behind the arms will give you more rear traction.

To me (and not knowing your setup) sounds like you have to thick of diff fluid in the front.. but I'm just guessing

HeavyD99

iTrader: (15)

Outdoor season is over and indoor season has not started yet here. But ya, waiting to see what the 2015 spec brings. I thought it would have been released by now

Wease

iTrader: (77)

I started out with the kit set-up since we run on such high traction, but made the following changes:

1. Took the transmission plate chassis spacer out from under the rear transmission - little to no difference. I still have this plate removed.

2. Lengthened the rear camber link - little to no different.

3. Shortest rear camber link possible - while the rear of the car was still loose, it was much more controllable with the shortest link.

4. Removed all the optional screws from the rear of the chassis - little to no different. Left all the screws out

5. Loosened the center slipper to the max distance recommend at about 6mm. This made the rear end slightly less loose, but still too loose.

6. Went to only .5mm of anti squat and max rear toe - helped a little, but nothing dramatic. I'm still running .5mm of anti squat and max toe.

7. Went down from 10K in the front diff to 7k - little to no difference. Still running 7K in the front.

7. Went up in the rear diff from 5k to 7k - biggest improvement so far. The rear is better, but still not as planted as my 2013 car was on this same track with the same tires. Got desperate and went from 7k in the rear to 10K just to see what would happen - but I actually didn't notice any more change.

8. Went to 3 dot front spring and sway bar which is stiffer than stock - little to no difference.

I'm still running the kit set-up for shock pistons and oils.

The rear is o.k. on long progressive turns, but in quick 180 degree turns or chicanes where I'm trying to make quick direction changes, or trying to pitch the car in to the turn - the rear is just too loose. Or should I say, the front is just stuck to the track and the rear wants to skip about 45 degrees in one direction or the other. It won't spin out completely, but it loses enough traction to point the front end in the wrong place.

WagwanBumba

iTrader: (1)

tried not gunning the throttle whilst the car is still turning? learn to drive the car as it is, get used to it then start making tweaks. are you also timing yourself? its hard to quantify progress or setbacks in your setup without numbers

Qwkrn U

iTrader: (133)

Wease
I'd try lighter fluid in the rear not thicker.
Thinner fluid
• Increases cornering traction • Increases steering into corner

Thicker fluid
• Decreases rear traction while cornering • Reduces wheelspin



Are you running sway bars?

After removing the plastic chassis spacer and setting arm spacers, I didn't notice any handling difference with my 13 car vs the the 14 car I have now.

auto2

iTrader: (7)

try a front tire with less bite.if you cant get the rear to hold give less bite in the front to match the rear.

Wease

iTrader: (77)

That is one thing I've always disagreed with in terms of the commonly accepted set-up for rear diff fluid. Thinner rear diff fluid allows the outside wheel to spin faster than the inside wheel and when you drive hard, you tend to diff out the entire rear end and it rotates too fast thus making the rear end step out suddenly. To me this is less traction. Thicker rear fluid will slow the outside wheel down with respect to the inside wheel and keep the rear end from rotating as fast as thinner fluid and to me that is more traction. Thinner rear diff fluid allows the rear of the car to rotate through the turn off power but the downside is that on power you tend to spin the rear out. Thicker rear diff fluid makes the rear end lazy through a turn off power, but on power it feels like you can control how much rotation you get by a little more or less throttle pull. I like to drive a car through a turn so for me, more traction is thicker rear diff fluid.

Read this: http://jq-products.com/the-news/43-t.../160-the-guide -- The section on the effect of rear diff fluid is the best explanation I've found to date.

joeymdz

iTrader: (13)

with the diffs just try 5F/2R and see if that instantly gives you more "rear" traction. by going down on the fluids you will notice a huge difference but you lose some rotation if the track has high grip (then you have to play around with different viscosity)

ALSO the stock set up BLOWS... PERIOD. I have always had great success with Vik's Tacoma setup or Bayers Euro Champ setup<-- 5f/3r

PS~ get rid of those stock pistons. you will find Avid or Schelle to be one of the better upgrades you can do for this car. the stocks have so much blow by it makes driving this car a chore.

Dont go by the book on setting the slipper. every car is different and set it up for your track for that condition

BDRMBULLY

iTrader: (40)

Lay your rear shock down all the way standing them up tends to make the ass end come around to easy. Sometimes its something this simple.

suzukipro

iTrader: (33)

I was fighting the same issue at the track I normally run at and found the biggest improvement from dialing back current limit (Tekin RSX / 6.5T) to 30%and loosening the slipper beyond the max recommended distance in the manual. I had also tried everything mentioned above laying the shocks down, Avid pistons, ran 2k diff fluid in the rear, but the slipper / current limit changes made the most noticeable changes to make the car controllable for me.

Wease

iTrader: (77)

What confuses and frustrates me is that my 2013 car was pretty dialed at this track. My shock set-up, diffs, electronics package & tires are all basically the same as the previous car, yet this 2014 car is darty as hell because it totally drives from the front end. I just copied 90% of Tyler Vik's set-up and for experiment sake, I went to 5K front and 2K rear in the diffs. I'll get a chance to practice with it this thursday. The really nice thing about this car is how damn easy it is to change the diff oils. So if the diff changes don't work /I don't like how that drives, I can easily go back to 10K front and 7k rear.

joeymdz

iTrader: (13)

what tires are you running? (lol... also check your bearing and make sure nothing is seized up)

having the right eccentric bushings really help out

Wease

iTrader: (77)

We run on a damp clay track and super soft compound slicks are the ticket. I use Hot Bodies pink compound ground to a slick. We use some tire sauce and it's glued to the track. In mod 2wd, I can easily loop out my buggy down the straight with the same set of tires . I can actually see my XB4 front end just dig in and grip and won't let go . . . despite all the traction, the rear can't do anything but follow the front violently.