246LikesXray XB4 thread
09-16-2014, 10:58 AM
#5551
Extra droop can easily be added by just unscrewing the shock rod ends (as well as removing limiters inside the shocks).
We do this from time to time on certain low traction tracks
Adding droop will result in more weight transferring when entering and exiting corners.
It will generally be less stable but will give you more traction on corner exit (more front droop) and more turn-in on corner entry (more rear droop).
Bent
We do this from time to time on certain low traction tracks
Adding droop will result in more weight transferring when entering and exiting corners.
It will generally be less stable but will give you more traction on corner exit (more front droop) and more turn-in on corner entry (more rear droop).
Bent
Thanks,
09-16-2014, 01:13 PM
#5553
Running a sway bar will let you run a softer shock setup for more grip and still be able to limit/control chassis roll
Bent
09-16-2014, 02:54 PM
#5554
So I had my XB4 on the drivers stand wall next to a HB D413 and noticed the D413 has a bit more suspension travel than the XB4. My question is, has anyone ever experimented with different shock shafts or shocks to increase suspension travel? My other thought is to not thread the eyelet in all the way to gain a slight bit of travel might be helpful to get more travel (helpful on the current indoor track configuration I run on).
Thanks,
Thanks,
09-16-2014, 04:49 PM
#5555
Tech Master
iTrader: (15)
I run 2mm limiters in the front and back, then unscrew the rear shock ends a 1mm to get the right droop.
No limiters = broken diff outdrive**.
Front sway bars - for indoors, yes. Outdoors, I have not run a front sway bar in a long time - I found it made my buggy too twitchy. But I like the idea of more grip, so I may go back to it next year (our outdoor season is almost over)
**See Bentka's explanation below for further detail.
No limiters = broken diff outdrive**.
Front sway bars - for indoors, yes. Outdoors, I have not run a front sway bar in a long time - I found it made my buggy too twitchy. But I like the idea of more grip, so I may go back to it next year (our outdoor season is almost over)
**See Bentka's explanation below for further detail.
Last edited by HeavyD99; 09-17-2014 at 05:38 AM.
09-16-2014, 05:19 PM
#5556
I run 2mm limiters in the front and back, then unscrew the rear shock ends a 1mm to get the right droop. No limiters = broken diff outdrive.
Front sway bars - for indoors, yes. Outdoors, I have not run a front sway bar in a long time - I found it made my buggy too twitchy. But I like the idea of more grip, so I may go back to it next year (our outdoor season is almost over)
Front sway bars - for indoors, yes. Outdoors, I have not run a front sway bar in a long time - I found it made my buggy too twitchy. But I like the idea of more grip, so I may go back to it next year (our outdoor season is almost over)
09-16-2014, 06:31 PM
#5557
Tech Master
iTrader: (15)
Well, as outdoor season comes to a close and indoor starts to ramp up, I'm going to do a bit of a tear down and a rebuild to get ready for carpet racing.
Bearings: My buggy is a year old - probably 25-30 race days on it running clay outdoors, the bearings feel ok, but how often do you guys replace them - are the OEM bearings from Xray considered high quality? I'm replacing my B5 bearings with Avid's, so....
Bearings: My buggy is a year old - probably 25-30 race days on it running clay outdoors, the bearings feel ok, but how often do you guys replace them - are the OEM bearings from Xray considered high quality? I'm replacing my B5 bearings with Avid's, so....
09-16-2014, 07:10 PM
#5558
Well, as outdoor season comes to a close and indoor starts to ramp up, I'm going to do a bit of a tear down and a rebuild to get ready for carpet racing.
Bearings: My buggy is a year old - probably 25-30 race days on it running clay outdoors, the bearings feel ok, but how often do you guys replace them - are the OEM bearings from Xray considered high quality? I'm replacing my B5 bearings with Avid's, so....
Bearings: My buggy is a year old - probably 25-30 race days on it running clay outdoors, the bearings feel ok, but how often do you guys replace them - are the OEM bearings from Xray considered high quality? I'm replacing my B5 bearings with Avid's, so....
09-16-2014, 10:04 PM
#5559
09-16-2014, 11:35 PM
#5560
Well, as outdoor season comes to a close and indoor starts to ramp up, I'm going to do a bit of a tear down and a rebuild to get ready for carpet racing.
Bearings: My buggy is a year old - probably 25-30 race days on it running clay outdoors, the bearings feel ok, but how often do you guys replace them - are the OEM bearings from Xray considered high quality? I'm replacing my B5 bearings with Avid's, so....
Bearings: My buggy is a year old - probably 25-30 race days on it running clay outdoors, the bearings feel ok, but how often do you guys replace them - are the OEM bearings from Xray considered high quality? I'm replacing my B5 bearings with Avid's, so....
09-17-2014, 02:59 AM
#5561
I run 2mm limiters in the front and back, then unscrew the rear shock ends a 1mm to get the right droop. No limiters = broken diff outdrive.
Front sway bars - for indoors, yes. Outdoors, I have not run a front sway bar in a long time - I found it made my buggy too twitchy. But I like the idea of more grip, so I may go back to it next year (our outdoor season is almost over)
Front sway bars - for indoors, yes. Outdoors, I have not run a front sway bar in a long time - I found it made my buggy too twitchy. But I like the idea of more grip, so I may go back to it next year (our outdoor season is almost over)
Saying; No limiters = broken diff outdrive will only be correct for certain set-ups as shock mounting position as well as your hinge pin inserts will determine the need for limiters or not.
Two identical shock setups will have different need of limiters depending on the position of your hinge pin inserts. Running them on the inside will require less droop (more limiters) than running the inserts on the outside.
You always want to make sure your drive shafts don't hit the outdrives on full compression or at full droop.
Driveshafts hitting the outdrives will not only bind up the suspension but will also weaken the outdrives over time.
So a useful tip could be to run your track width wider by positioning the hinge pin inserts further out as this will give the driveshafts a greater range of movement without hitting the outdrives and allow you to run more droop
Bent
09-17-2014, 03:55 AM
#5562
Yeah, I was also wondering what the common things are to replace, I drove him a whole season but only changed broken parts, He has allot of play on the steering, does this make the car more unstable or something?
Also, when do you replace you're orings?
Also, when do you replace you're orings?
09-17-2014, 10:14 AM
#5564
Saying; No limiters = broken diff outdrive will only be correct for certain set-ups as shock mounting position as well as your hinge pin inserts will determine the need for limiters or not.
Two identical shock setups will have different need of limiters depending on the position of your hinge pin inserts. Running them on the inside will require less droop (more limiters) than running the inserts on the outside.
You always want to make sure your drive shafts don't hit the outdrives on full compression or at full droop.
Driveshafts hitting the outdrives will not only bind up the suspension but will also weaken the outdrives over time.
So a useful tip could be to run your track width wider by positioning the hinge pin inserts further out as this will give the driveshafts a greater range of movement without hitting the outdrives and allow you to run more droop
Bent
Two identical shock setups will have different need of limiters depending on the position of your hinge pin inserts. Running them on the inside will require less droop (more limiters) than running the inserts on the outside.
You always want to make sure your drive shafts don't hit the outdrives on full compression or at full droop.
Driveshafts hitting the outdrives will not only bind up the suspension but will also weaken the outdrives over time.
So a useful tip could be to run your track width wider by positioning the hinge pin inserts further out as this will give the driveshafts a greater range of movement without hitting the outdrives and allow you to run more droop
Bent
09-17-2014, 12:56 PM
#5565