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Xray XB4 thread

Old 11-25-2013, 03:40 AM
  #3421  
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I've finished my xb4, although am undecided what to to with the pistons. Seems to be a few different variations. I noticed that both the base setups for clay and carpet both use the same pistons, along with Bayers EOS setup. Anyone have any opinions?

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Old 11-25-2013, 03:50 AM
  #3422  
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Originally Posted by Jamison R
Did you cut the chassis and remove plastic or just cut for flex? Looking for just a little more rear grip. Can you post a pic? Also did you change suspension bushings?
I will take a pic while i tear it down to clean. It took like 5 minutes and the feel was very noticable. I mostly run low to medium bite. It works awesome.
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Old 11-25-2013, 04:50 AM
  #3423  
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Originally Posted by protc3
I will take a pic while i tear it down to clean. It took like 5 minutes and the feel was very noticable. I mostly run low to medium bite. It works awesome.
Did you remove the piece that's cut or does it stay put just cut for flex? Thanks for the help
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Old 11-25-2013, 06:12 AM
  #3424  
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I took it out. The aluminum chassis plate is already pocketed out to clear the ring gear so it makes it a super quick mod. I did it for a guy at the track in 2 minutes. Well worth it buddy.
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Old 11-25-2013, 06:50 AM
  #3425  
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Originally Posted by protc3
I took it out. The aluminum chassis plate is already pocketed out to clear the ring gear so it makes it a super quick mod. I did it for a guy at the track in 2 minutes. Well worth it buddy.
Did you do anything different with the rear camber link mounts on the tower or hinge pin inserts? I also run on similar conditions and want to try this mod.
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Old 11-25-2013, 06:57 AM
  #3426  
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Originally Posted by rraden
Did you do anything different with the rear camber link mounts on the tower or hinge pin inserts? I also run on similar conditions and want to try this mod.
No, Everything comes down together. The whole rear end cluster. You will need to remove the 2mm carbon fiber shim from the front of the transmission housing by the drive shaft.
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Old 11-25-2013, 09:10 AM
  #3427  
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Originally Posted by protc3
I took it out. The aluminum chassis plate is already pocketed out to clear the ring gear so it makes it a super quick mod. I did it for a guy at the track in 2 minutes. Well worth it buddy.
Did you use a razor blade?
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Old 11-25-2013, 09:55 AM
  #3428  
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Some funny stuff on here!
On a side note $70.00 for aluminum shock caps
I was just checking to see what was avail because I picked my xb up previously loved, very clean and little run time, But I ran it saturday night for the first time and 2 of the four caps were weeping. I gave them a little snug up today so we'll see.
By the way, It did drive incredible! I got to the track early enough for about 20 laps of practice before racing and my first qual I was able to stay on pace w/the top 4 guy's. Soooo much fun!
I did finish off the wing that came w/it tho....This thing jumps like a gazelle!
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Old 11-25-2013, 10:04 AM
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Originally Posted by Blown up
Some funny stuff on here!
On a side note $70.00 for aluminum shock caps
I was just checking to see what was avail because I picked my xb up previously loved, very clean and little run time, But I ran it saturday night for the first time and 2 of the four caps were weeping. I gave them a little snug up today so we'll see.
By the way, It did drive incredible! I got to the track early enough for about 20 laps of practice before racing and my first qual I was able to stay on pace w/the top 4 guy's. Soooo much fun!
I did finish off the wing that came w/it tho....This thing jumps like a gazelle!
they'll probably still leak...

2 methods you can do:

use a grease around the threads to help seal the leak or purchase shock cap orings

http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...10mm-O-Ring-10
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Old 11-25-2013, 10:06 AM
  #3430  
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Originally Posted by joeymdz
Did you use a razor blade?
A pair of body scissors and an exacto. It came out very clean.
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Old 11-25-2013, 11:09 AM
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Originally Posted by protc3
I removed it. I kept the part i cut off for high grip. I had to mill off the bottom of the rear pin holder where it locks around the chassis as it protrudes out of the bottom. I took it down 2mm. Arm bushings are the same. All i wanted to change was lowering the hinge pins.
could you take a pic of your rear-end? (haha funny I know)

I want to see your modification to the hanger
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Old 11-25-2013, 12:07 PM
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I will shoot a G rated version when I get home.
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Old 11-25-2013, 01:27 PM
  #3433  
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Originally Posted by neallewis
I've picked up the two +2 rear lower suspension holders today from MB Models.
363311 and 363321. They are shown below compared to the regular kit rear ones.



I've modified (Dremel) the kit RR holder to allow it to be mounted directly to the chassis, as i'd already removed the plastic rear section of the chassis for the ralls racing under-gearbox weight. I ran the car with the dropped gearbox and modified kit hangers on my slippy and it was excellent. Really helped lock in the rear of the car.

I've now got the new optional +2 hangers and they raise the mount points higher/closer to the outdrive by 2mm. really hoping this helps to lock in the rear end more on the slippy stuff with the dripped gearbox. Testing Sunday, will feedback.
Anyone else done this yet?
I knew I had seen the stock rear hanger mod already.
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Old 11-25-2013, 03:45 PM
  #3434  
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Just ordered the 2014 version, along with the 363311 nd 363321 optional hangers. For low to md bite track what diff oil wt should I start with? Also this will be my first xray, any build tips?
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Old 11-25-2013, 04:07 PM
  #3435  
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Originally Posted by Speedychris22
Just ordered the 2014 version, along with the 363311 nd 363321 optional hangers. For low to md bite track what diff oil wt should I start with? Also this will be my first xray, any build tips?
where did you order the optional hangers?
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