Xray XB4 thread
#2131
#2132
Tech Initiate
http://www.petitrc.com/setup/xray/se...ctronicsSetup/
There are many Orion escs in those pictures.
You can also have more space by removing the plastic cover around the capacitors and shrink wrapping them after that.
You can re-solder your wires so that the wires go down from the esc. That way you can use the wire retainer more easily.
There are many Orion escs in those pictures.
You can also have more space by removing the plastic cover around the capacitors and shrink wrapping them after that.
You can re-solder your wires so that the wires go down from the esc. That way you can use the wire retainer more easily.
#2134
Acceleration and quickness is no good if you can't put any grip down and just spin out all the time on the rear. The car is just as quick and nimble with the added weight, but the rear grip is lots higher now, so of course i can go faster.
#2135
XB4 Ball Differentials?
SO whats the go with ball diffs for this amazing car? on the setup sheets it has a ball diff option so I was just wondering if anyone has any information as to when they will become avalable?
Cheers.
Cheers.
#2136
Tech Elite
iTrader: (15)
You say outer hole and no longer parallel. So you moved the link out and down ? Shortened the link and lowered the ball for more camber change ? Thanks for sharing, I'm just trying to get a clear idea of what you did. Still don't like the idea of adding 5% extra weight.
#2137
I'm using this rear tower. Not used the front as yet, as the kit camber holes are fine at the front.
I'm using the outer middle hold, which shortens the upper link. At the hub end, i'm on the outer/longest link setting. when the wishbones and driveshafts are level, the upper link is angled down from the hub to the inner ballstud. This seems to lock in the rear end and calm the over rotation far more than any other setting I've tried. I could not get the same effect with any of the kit ball stud holes on the tower. They just don't seem to move or change the ball position enough to make a handling difference.
Is 80g 5% of the total weight? I'll have to get my scales out to check. the extra weight doesn't bother me though. There is plenty of power available with my 6.5 Tekin gen 2, and bags more rear grip with the under lipo weight.
It may change when I hit the Grass and Astro tracks as the weather improves. I've had one meeting on an all astro track with the car setup as per my indoors setup, and it was superb. Outside again on sunday so long as its dry on the grass/astro track.
Last edited by neallewis; 04-16-2013 at 06:20 PM.
#2138
Tech Elite
iTrader: (43)
I'm using this rear tower. Not used the front as yet, as the kit camber holes are fine at the front.
I'm using the outer middle hold, which shortens the upper link. At the hub end, i'm on the outer/longest link setting. when the wishbones and driveshafts are level, the upper link is angled down from the hub to the inner ballstud. This seems to lock in the rear end and calm the over rotation far more than any other setting I've tried. I could not get the same effect with any of the kit ball stud holes on the tower. They just don't seem to move or change the ball position enough to make a handling difference.
Is 80g 5% of the total weight? I'll have to get my scales out to check. the extra weight doesn't bother me though. There is plenty of power available with my 6.5 Tekin gen 2, and bags more rear grip with the under lipo weight.
It may change when I hit the Grass and Astro tracks as the whether improves. I've had one meeting on an all astro track with the car setup as per my indoors setup, and it was superb. Outside again on sunday so long as its dry on the grass/astro track.
I'm using the outer middle hold, which shortens the upper link. At the hub end, i'm on the outer/longest link setting. when the wishbones and driveshafts are level, the upper link is angled down from the hub to the inner ballstud. This seems to lock in the rear end and calm the over rotation far more than any other setting I've tried. I could not get the same effect with any of the kit ball stud holes on the tower. They just don't seem to move or change the ball position enough to make a handling difference.
Is 80g 5% of the total weight? I'll have to get my scales out to check. the extra weight doesn't bother me though. There is plenty of power available with my 6.5 Tekin gen 2, and bags more rear grip with the under lipo weight.
It may change when I hit the Grass and Astro tracks as the whether improves. I've had one meeting on an all astro track with the car setup as per my indoors setup, and it was superb. Outside again on sunday so long as its dry on the grass/astro track.
#2139
no, we don't use tyre additive. Just Schumacher Yellow compound rubber, which grips pretty well. nothing else seems to grip though.
Nathan (Ralls Racing) designed and made the towers. I'm sure he'll be restocking soon. They have been popular.
#2140
I'm using the outer middle hold, which shortens the upper link. At the hub end, i'm on the outer/longest link setting. when the wishbones and driveshafts are level, the upper link is angled down from the hub to the inner ballstud. This seems to lock in the rear end and calm the over rotation far more than any other setting I've tried. I could not get the same effect with any of the kit ball stud holes on the tower. They just don't seem to move or change the ball position enough to make a handling difference.
Is 80g 5% of the total weight? I'll have to get my scales out to check. the extra weight doesn't bother me though. There is plenty of power available with my 6.5 Tekin gen 2, and bags more rear grip with the under lipo weight.
It may change when I hit the Grass and Astro tracks as the weather improves. I've had one meeting on an all astro track with the car setup as per my indoors setup, and it was superb. Outside again on sunday so long as its dry on the grass/astro track.
#2141
Not at the same time. Added the weight before the tower change. Of course it was an improvement, but the tower finished it off. I'll do more testing for my outdoor setup from this weekend, so will be taking the weight out first.
#2143
here:
http://www.rallsracing.com/catalog/p...roducts_id=402
http://www.rallsracing.com/catalog/p...roducts_id=401
Out of stock though :-(
I'll mail Nathan Ralls and find out when they are getting more.
https://www.facebook.com/RallsRacing
http://www.rallsracing.com/catalog/p...roducts_id=402
http://www.rallsracing.com/catalog/p...roducts_id=401
Out of stock though :-(
I'll mail Nathan Ralls and find out when they are getting more.
https://www.facebook.com/RallsRacing
#2144
On this past weekend's race, I broke the right rear hub or what Xray calls the "composite upright". Seems I had so much flex when I snapped the hub, that the ballstud on my camber link cracked.
Just tried looking for the ballstuds in A-Main but they don't seem to carry it. Anyone know where I could get them from?
Thanks!
Just tried looking for the ballstuds in A-Main but they don't seem to carry it. Anyone know where I could get them from?
Thanks!