Xray XB4 thread
I'm not sure if this has been tried or tested before but I inverted the RR +2 hanger to lower the roll center of the hinge pins searching for rear grip. I measured with calipers and believe doing this gets the RR hinge plate 1mm lower than with the standard (Non+2mm) RR hanger. I was previously running the +2 RF & RR hangers and now switched it up to the standard RF & RR+2 brass hanger (upside down).
I'll have to wait until this weekend to see how/if it works running on low to med bite hard packed dirt, but it seems functional on the bench.
I'll have to wait until this weekend to see how/if it works running on low to med bite hard packed dirt, but it seems functional on the bench.
Tech Elite
iTrader: (27)
I am going to give my daughter my XB4 2017 and will be putting a 17.5 in it. What spur and pinion size would be good? This would be on a large clay track(OCRC).
Tech Adept
I read some previous comments in this thread about the X-ray wheels not holding up well, and a lot of people using different hexes with TLR wheels.. My LHS stocks JConcepts Wheels so I'd like to use what he carries on my 2016 XB4, does anyone know which JConcept wheels with which hexes would be best? Thanks in advance.
Tech Elite
iTrader: (33)
ive never broken any wheels.. although i will agree, they are softer than most.. however.. i believe bent made a comment saying the wheels are soft for a reason..
I'm running 69/31 in my daughters 2017 in 17.5. TO get the 69 tooth spur I've got at Bezerk slipper eliminator. Gives a FDR of 5.565.
I'm not sure if this has been tried or tested before but I inverted the RR +2 hanger to lower the roll center of the hinge pins searching for rear grip. I measured with calipers and believe doing this gets the RR hinge plate 1mm lower than with the standard (Non+2mm) RR hanger. I was previously running the +2 RF & RR hangers and now switched it up to the standard RF & RR+2 brass hanger (upside down).
I'll have to wait until this weekend to see how/if it works running on low to med bite hard packed dirt, but it seems functional on the bench.
I'll have to wait until this weekend to see how/if it works running on low to med bite hard packed dirt, but it seems functional on the bench.
Tech Master
iTrader: (8)
Are most of you running or using the Slipper for running on Carpet?
Our local indoor dirt track changed over to carpet and will start running soon and so used to using the Center Diff. I'll be running Mod 4w with a 6.5 motor as well.
Our local indoor dirt track changed over to carpet and will start running soon and so used to using the Center Diff. I'll be running Mod 4w with a 6.5 motor as well.
Tech Elite
iTrader: (27)
I found the slipper to feel more stable while the c diff allows for more off power steering and also allows for you to land on power with more confidence. I actually prefer the the slipper however I have switched to 13.5t (gaining a ton of popularity) and a slipper delete or C diff are the best options due to a significant weight reduction over the slipper.
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (7)
When I bought my kit I bought 12mm 0mm F/R wheel hex's. What hexs do you guys like for indoor med/high grip clay. I use xray wheels as well. Wondering what is the stock width and what width folks are liking. Thanks
Tech Master
iTrader: (8)
First page of this thread has a listing and PNs of 12mm hexes and common wheels to use with them as well.
Most who have gone to the 12mm hexes are using the +0.75mm (#365355) on the front and +1.5mm (#365356) on the rear using
standard 12mm rear wheels and TLR 22-4 front wheels. Car becomes very stable with this combination.
Most who have gone to the 12mm hexes are using the +0.75mm (#365355) on the front and +1.5mm (#365356) on the rear using
standard 12mm rear wheels and TLR 22-4 front wheels. Car becomes very stable with this combination.
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (7)
I checked the first page before posting but wanted to hear others opinions on the width. Thanks for the your recommendation chris. I'm thinking about going w/ 1 stripe all around. I guess the way my car is now i'm running 243 rear and 243.5 front. I've never fooled w/ track width so I'm not sure what running a narrower rear end is doing. I'm trying to decide if it's worth spending 40 bucks to get the front and rear the same width. As well as if running .5mm narrower in the rear is hurting the cars performance on indoor clay. I am happy w/ xray wheels and have a fair amount of them so I will be sticking w/ xray wheels.
Tech Regular
iTrader: (4)
I use the 12mm +0.75mm front +1.5mmrear with kyoshozx6 fronts w5201w rims and TLR22 tlr7100 rears, the kyosho fronts give a little more thread sticking through than the tlr fronts.
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (7)
Thanks Bill77
Two questions:
How can you recognise the type of chassis guard that is mounted on a car? I bought a second hand car and would like to know which chassis guard: medium of hard, is mounted on the car. Is there a marking somewhere?
Why use a “slipper delete” in stock-classes? Could you not just tighten the slipper to a rock-hard non-slip position?
How can you recognise the type of chassis guard that is mounted on a car? I bought a second hand car and would like to know which chassis guard: medium of hard, is mounted on the car. Is there a marking somewhere?
Why use a “slipper delete” in stock-classes? Could you not just tighten the slipper to a rock-hard non-slip position?