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Old 03-08-2016, 05:56 AM   #10651
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Well I ordered the kit tonight. One more question. Since this will be my first 1/10 four wheel buggy...(I'm used to pro4 and 1/8 scale) and I'm going to run the gear center diff. I've noticed that alot of people run 50,000 - 100,000 center diff oil with the xray and other brands. This seems high to me. What would be a good starting point. Thanks again.
I am running 100k in mine currently, I had 300k in there and it felt great but I did not have enough last time I rebuilt my car so the 100k has stayed in it and it still feels really good. I want to try 500k and 1 mil once I can get some ordered, especially when it starts to get warmer here.

I wouldnt go much lower than 100k, 60k feels too light
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Old 03-08-2016, 06:00 AM   #10652
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I thought the same thing when I got mine, so I started with 300,000 and it didn't feel right, so I went up to 1,000,000 and it was great.
I agree with JMC. 300k is okay and maybe good for someone new to wheeler class, however I would start at 500k. Thus if you want to go higher than 500k either hit 1Millon or you can blend custom oil weights. Make sure to use the same brand oil. You can take a bottle of 1 million and a bottle of 500k, thus go to the silicone mix calculator punch in the 2 oils you have and your target weight.

Calc. Will tell you how much of each to blend.

Oh! JMC I got my center gear diff issue with the button heads rubbing. I carefully tightened down the spur gear crews and also put a .1mm shim on the bearing collar between the rear bearing and diff. Worked out perfa. Also put a dab of dry gear over the button head just to to help with any possible friction/heat. It's crazy how close the Spurs gears button head screws are to the inner motor mont button head.
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Old 03-08-2016, 06:59 AM   #10653
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Oh! JMC I got my center gear diff issue with the button heads rubbing. I carefully tightened down the spur gear crews and also put a .1mm shim on the bearing collar between the rear bearing and diff. Worked out perfa. Also put a dab of dry gear over the button head just to to help with any possible friction/heat. It's crazy how close the Spurs gears button head screws are to the inner motor mont button head.
Good to know, I'll have to try that and look at it closer next time i put it back in.
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Old 03-08-2016, 02:59 PM   #10654
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Awesome. Thanks for the help.
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Old 03-08-2016, 08:17 PM   #10655
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Do the ECS's fit on the xb4'15? Or are they just for the '16? When I look them up on Amain it specifically says compatible with the '16. Part numbers I am looking at are 365200 and 365300.
Also wondering if the rears really make much difference or if the fronts make the most difference
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Old 03-08-2016, 08:45 PM   #10656
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I just picked up an XB4 2015. Im excited to run it this weekend. I tore it down today and tomorrow I hope to starting cleaning and rebuilding it from the ground up. Any suggestions for replacement parts I should have on hand or upgrade I should purchase. Most of time this car will be run on a low to medium bite dirt track.

Thanks
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Old 03-08-2016, 10:23 PM   #10657
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Do the ECS's fit on the xb4'15? Or are they just for the '16? When I look them up on Amain it specifically says compatible with the '16. Part numbers I am looking at are 365200 and 365300.
Also wondering if the rears really make much difference or if the fronts make the most difference
It should fit. I believe the 15 uses 81mm shafts and if so the ECS will fit as hubs are the same.
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Old 03-08-2016, 10:40 PM   #10658
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do upstop shims go above the spring cups or below?
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Old 03-08-2016, 10:41 PM   #10659
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do upstop shims go above the spring cups or below?
above
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Old 03-09-2016, 12:41 AM   #10660
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Originally Posted by Slapjack View Post
Do the ECS's fit on the xb4'15? Or are they just for the '16? When I look them up on Amain it specifically says compatible with the '16. Part numbers I am looking at are 365200 and 365300.
Also wondering if the rears really make much difference or if the fronts make the most difference
I just bought them (F&R) for my 14, but am waiting on the mail man to deliver them. If there are any issues I'll post back and could be forced into buying a 16 at that point as the ECS shafts are not a cheap investment.

From what I've researched the drive shaft lengths are the same on the 14, 15 & 16 XB4's with the hubs/spindles being the same also. Spec-R came out with their ECS shafts back when the 14 was the latest XB4 available so in theory they should work fine.
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Old 03-09-2016, 12:57 PM   #10661
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ECS will work fine on your 14. Before assembling them fully clean the grubs screws, barells, pins etc. I would not grease/lubricate before or during assembly, thus waiting a full night for the Loctite to fully cure. I would also use the gel version loctite (blue) as it adheres much better.
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Old 03-10-2016, 08:34 AM   #10662
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Fellas quick question..........I wasn't aware that you can remove the upper decks on a 15'. I thought we had to run the car that way. I saw a pic today of a 15 without top decks........ Can someone who's done this post the part#'s needed
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Old 03-10-2016, 11:54 AM   #10663
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Fellas quick question..........I wasn't aware that you can remove the upper decks on a 15'. I thought we had to run the car that way. I saw a pic today of a 15 without top decks........ Can someone who's done this post the part#'s needed
Using the graphite stiffeners and removing the top decks is probably one of the best upgrades you can make for the xb4.

If you run in shorty configuration, you will need part #361168.

If you run in saddle pack configuration, you will need part #361169

Check them out because they make the car feel better in every way.
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Old 03-10-2016, 12:33 PM   #10664
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In addition to what Freeski said I also run the front brace. Part#361173
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Old 03-10-2016, 12:47 PM   #10665
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In addition to what Freeski said I also run the front brace. Part#361173
Oh snap. Yes. Totally forgot to mention this^^^^^^

good catch.
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