Xray XB4 thread
#9541
Tech Elite
iTrader: (43)
The shocks are super good even with the stock molded pistons. The new shock body coating is really good as well. When freshly built they're as smooth, if not smoother than any other shock out there. The only issue I have is that because the o-ring is designed for maximum smoothness there isn't a lot of longevity in a shock build. You need to rebuild them every few races to keep them in tip top shape. Other cars don't start out as good, but remain at that level for a long time, where the X-Ray shocks start out super good but then you need to rebuild them a lot more often.
#9542
If you build shocks with zero rebound at all, they will all suck some air. If you build them with smallest amount of "suck" and "rebound", I've never had any issue with it, except for the AE shocks with red o-rings. X-rings have fixed that on TLR and AE pretty well.
#9543
Awesome feedback, thanks.
What you are describing is a side effect of running emulsion style shocks. I have run AE and TLR stuff too, and if you run that style, you need to expect that "settling" as well as redoing your shock oil more frequently (i.e. it gets dirtier quicker).
The settling actually makes effect within the first minute or two of a run, so I usually set my ride height 2mm higher when i rebuild shocks knowing the settling will happen.
The settling actually makes effect within the first minute or two of a run, so I usually set my ride height 2mm higher when i rebuild shocks knowing the settling will happen.
When you build the shocks initially with zero rebound (freshly built) there is no air in the shocks. She shock shafts displaces all the air. When you pull the shock shafts out there is a vacuum, rc shock will always pull some air in blue to this vacuum. The shocks will always try to reach equilibrium in pressure between vacuum (stroked out) and pressure (fully compressed) meaning at 50% rebound the shocks will have the same pressure inside the shock as outside the shock. At full compression the pressure value will be equal yet opposite to the vacuum when the shock is fully stroked. You should regularly blead your shocks of excess air if you are trying to get 0 rebound.
The shocks are super good even with the stock molded pistons. The new shock body coating is really good as well. When freshly built they're as smooth, if not smoother than any other shock out there. The only issue I have is that because the o-ring is designed for maximum smoothness there isn't a lot of longevity in a shock build. You need to rebuild them every few races to keep them in tip top shape. Other cars don't start out as good, but remain at that level for a long time, where the X-Ray shocks start out super good but then you need to rebuild them a lot more often.
At the end of the day, I guess it is a matter of how you like to maintain your car. The xray shocks do start out feeling very good and I'm assuming the o-ring is designed to provide the best possible feel with durability being a secondary focus behind shock smoothness.
One thing I do think needs to be mentioned is the shocks when newly built are amazing. Right up there with the best, but in order to keep them feeling in tip top form, the o-rings must be changed more regularly and i will take that into account.
Thanks for all the responses.
#9544
Tech Elite
iTrader: (27)
Keep in mind that more so than how a shock feels in the hand, weather or not the pistons are machined or molded, is how they actually work on the car. I feel as a whole, the shock package is as good as anything else out there. I'm running 1.6x2 hole 40wt front and 1.7x2 hole 35wt rear and it is so plush. The car is stuck... no slapping and no bouncing around in the rough.
#9545
Regional Moderator
iTrader: (13)
Nothing "wrong" with the shocks per say. I have read and talked to people about how these particular shocks seem to want to settle or suck air more than other cars(AE or TLR), and I consider these a downgrade from the shocks on my kyosho cars. I have just gotten used to the way to bleed those and the cartridge seems like a good design and the shocks seem to never get air in them and stay very clean. These shocks not so much... Does this mean they wont perform as well? Heck no. I would of liked to see machined pistons in a kit with this price but it is what it is.
#9546
Tech Addict
iTrader: (11)
Keep in mind that more so than how a shock feels in the hand, weather or not the pistons are machined or molded, is how they actually work on the car. I feel as a whole, the shock package is as good as anything else out there. I'm running 1.6x2 hole 40wt front and 1.7x2 hole 35wt rear and it is so plush. The car is stuck... no slapping and no bouncing around in the rough.
did you drill your own pistons, because if I can remember right I thought the kits only had one set of 2 hole pistons but were low like 1.3 or 1.4, just asking as I am running the Avid 2+2 1.1 x 1.5 and 1.1 x 1.6 and was thinking of trying the 2 hole 1.6 & 1.7 as i have seen them on a couple buggys now
#9547
Tech Elite
iTrader: (27)
did you drill your own pistons, because if I can remember right I thought the kits only had one set of 2 hole pistons but were low like 1.3 or 1.4, just asking as I am running the Avid 2+2 1.1 x 1.5 and 1.1 x 1.6 and was thinking of trying the 2 hole 1.6 & 1.7 as i have seen them on a couple buggys now
#9549
Tech Adept
#9552
Fellas can someone post part#'s of what i need to use 16' diffcase n tower??? Is it just Complete case n tower??
#9553
Tech Elite
iTrader: (118)
#9555
Tech Rookie
Does anybody know where to get spare arms for the XB4 '16 in the US? They have the rear arms on Amain but they are back ordered. Also, do the part #362111 front arms work on the 2016? They have those on amain but I don't want buy them and not have them work. I really want to get this buggy but I don't want to get it and not have spare parts.