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Old 09-11-2015, 08:19 AM   #8716
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Thanks heaps ill try shimming the gear closer to the main gear, but i don't think its the diff housing as the buggy is only 3 months old but if it happens again ill definitely be changing the diff housing.
how did this turn out for u,where cases worn or just the shim needed.I run a pretty tight slipper on a semi rough dirt track,maybe this is what takes them out, My pinion gear is stripping at about the half way point,should they be in full contact all the way up the gear
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Old 09-11-2015, 08:21 AM   #8717
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I dont have alot of wrench time with the xb4,I didnt see anywhere in the instructions where it needed to be shimmed,can you go into detail on what shims u used? In front of the bearing or in back of bearing on output shaft?
i did it..... for example, first small 0.3mm between pinion and the axle(inside the pinion), then large 0.3mm between bb and the pinion.......u need to insert both at the same time
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Old 09-11-2015, 11:04 AM   #8718
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i did it..... for example, first small 0.3mm between pinion and the axle(inside the pinion), then large 0.3mm between bb and the pinion.......u need to insert both at the same time
so your talking about putting multiple shims on both sides of the bearing? does this give you full contact on the pinion gear?

Its strange never had a issue with this,until a small lip developed on the bottom of a wall ride and the car would catch it pretty hard,wouldnt stop the car but really jerked it,2 diff xb4 cars i have started having this issue on both front and rear diffs
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Old 09-11-2015, 11:21 AM   #8719
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so your talking about putting multiple shims on both sides of the bearing? does this give you full contact on the pinion gear?

Its strange never had a issue with this,until a small lip developed on the bottom of a wall ride and the car would catch it pretty hard,wouldnt stop the car but really jerked it,2 diff xb4 cars i have started having this issue on both front and rear diffs
no.....i put shims for the pinion, not for the diff.....contact area will be larger but still not full contact..........just better
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Old 09-11-2015, 02:25 PM   #8720
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im talking about the bearing that slides on the bevel drive gear or pinion gear,diff name same part right? so shim on both sides of that bearing?
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Old 09-11-2015, 06:00 PM   #8721
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how did this turn out for u,where cases worn or just the shim needed.I run a pretty tight slipper on a semi rough dirt track,maybe this is what takes them out, My pinion gear is stripping at about the half way point,should they be in full contact all the way up the gear
I tried the shimming and it still happened only took longer, I'm also striping at halfway on the pinion, i decided before i change the housings to try composite diff gear and composite bevel gear and my problem is fixed i haven't stripped a composite gear yet.
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Old 09-11-2015, 06:05 PM   #8722
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For some reason when i bought the new kit the bevel gear lasted a good 6 months of driving at least a couple off days a week before i stripped one, but as soon as the first one went every one after that lasted a race day if lucky which kind of tells me it must be because the diff housing is getting worn out.
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Old 09-15-2015, 02:13 PM   #8723
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same thing happened to me but my diff case has been replaced because it broke twice. the top brakes off when landing hard
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Old 09-16-2015, 07:12 AM   #8724
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I have a couple questions...
1. Is the servo linkage supposed to be angled like this. When I turn left the linkage almost touches the top deck plate. It doesn't but there is probably only about .001" between the linkage and the bottom of the top deck. I am using an alum horn not one of the plastic ones. so maybe that is why. If I drop the linkage down one hole on the arm the linkage hits the top of the servo at full turn left.


Is the slipper assembly supposed to be able to move back and forth in the mount? Or should it be shimmed so there is no back and forth movement? I am used to 8th scale buggies with a CD. I have never had a slipper before. I am also wondering is this slipper just as good as a CD? With a CD power is transferred front to back as needed. I don't see how the slipper would do that. So it seems like on the xb4 power can only be transferred side to side through the front and rear diffs? Or am I looking at this wrong?
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Old 09-16-2015, 08:12 AM   #8725
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I prefer the gear diff in the middle.
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Old 09-16-2015, 12:45 PM   #8726
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I prefer the gear diff in the middle.
Pretty sure I will too. Is there an option to do the gear diff with the 2014? version or just the 2015?
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Old 09-16-2015, 06:24 PM   #8727
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I have no idea about the '14, I have only owned the '15. Moreso, it owns me... :0
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Old 09-16-2015, 06:59 PM   #8728
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Pretty sure I will too. Is there an option to do the gear diff with the 2014? version or just the 2015?
2015 only unless you want to modify your chassis. Someone posted a while back how to do it.
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Old 09-16-2015, 10:27 PM   #8729
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slap, can you check the height of the aluminum horn vs the stock plastic? maybe its a little taller?
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Old 09-17-2015, 06:30 AM   #8730
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slap, can you check the height of the aluminum horn vs the stock plastic? maybe its a little taller?
Yea, it is slightly taller. Is there really any benefit to using an aluminum horn in 10th scale? I am just used to swapping out for aluminum cause I always do that in my 8th scale stuff. But with the smaller cars there isn't as much torque coming from the servo and not a lot of weight on the wheels adding more stress.
I am also wondering does anyone run the exotek steering crank that eliminates the servo saver? Does it help with steering and make it feel more precise? I was about to buy it then I saw that it eliminates the saver and that made me a little nervous. Or would I just be better off getting the aluminum servo saver arms? Are these an Xray made part or no? http://www.ebay.com/itm/361226553081...%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
Also any other input on other exotek parts like the rear hubs and front caster hubs?
Should I be looking into Exotek parts or Spec R when buying these types of upgrades?
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Last edited by Slapjack; 09-17-2015 at 06:59 AM.
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