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Old 03-15-2015, 03:52 PM
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Originally Posted by rcgod View Post
For 3.5 degrees toe use 0 insert on the right and 1 out on the left. To get 3 deg toe use .5 in on right and .5 out on left.
Thanks man!
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Old 03-15-2015, 04:43 PM
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Originally Posted by HeavyD99 View Post
The whole point of green slime is to prevent the o-rings from the swelling caused by the silicone oil...I just pull the o-rings out and put green slime of them and install them into the diffs or shocks. No soaking in oil. No leaks. As for the diff gaskets I add a drop of oil to them just to get them to lay flat and hold them in place while I assemble everything together.
Hey Heavy,

Oh I was referring to soaking the diff o-rings in oil thus swelling them up a tad and increasing pliability before installing.
My previous posted question was most likely confusing, thus phrased backwards. I have been putting to many hours at work thus my communication skills are lacking clarity.
Your definetly correct, in one should not to soak shock o-rings in oil, and also right on point with Green Slimes purpose of use to prevent o-rings from swelling and thus helping prevent friction on the shock shaft.

As always much thanks to everyone participating on the XB4 thread as sharing knowledge and experiences is very helpful. 👍
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Old 03-16-2015, 06:53 AM
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Some gently used 2013/2014 parts for sale
http://www.rctech.net/forum/r-c-item...xb4-parts.html
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Old 03-16-2015, 07:01 AM
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Originally Posted by HeavyD99 View Post
Some gently used 2013/2014 parts for sale
http://www.rctech.net/forum/r-c-item...xb4-parts.html
What is the parts list you used to convert to the 2015?
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Old 03-16-2015, 07:23 AM
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Originally Posted by jmackani View Post
What is the parts list you used to convert to the 2015?
Go back a few pages... Like 3
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Old 03-16-2015, 09:42 AM
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Originally Posted by DustinEich View Post
Go back a few pages... Like 3
thx
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Old 03-16-2015, 10:05 AM
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@jmackani,

If I were to build my 2013 into a 2015 today, my parts list would have been simpler than what I ended up doing.

I'd build it in shorty configuration as follows:

3mm aluminum chassis
Carbon fiber front X brace
Side guards
95mm center rear dog bone (use your 2014 88mm bone for the front)
Steel 35T bevels and 14T pinion gears
Center diff
Carbon fiber center top plate
Shorty battery brace
2015 ESC mount
2015 motor mount
2015 composite motor mount
2015 center chassis stiffeners

There are some spacers and small bits etc that I'm probably missing to complete the full conversion, but knowing what I know now, this is how I'd do it. I actually bought all the top decks and the standard 2mm chassis and all the bits through that online auction site, so I did not spend top dollar. I've built it up this weekend finally, but still have not raced it. Still might get the 3mm chassis, but since I race on clay during the summer I will wait to see if it is the way to go or not.

D.
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Old 03-16-2015, 10:34 AM
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Originally Posted by HeavyD99 View Post
@jmackani,

If I were to build my 2013 into a 2015 today, my parts list would have been simpler than what I ended up doing.

I'd build it in shorty configuration as follows:

3mm aluminum chassis
Carbon fiber front X brace
Side guards
95mm center rear dog bone (use your 2014 88mm bone for the front)
Steel 35T bevels and 14T pinion gears
Center diff
Carbon fiber center top plate
Shorty battery brace
2015 ESC mount
2015 motor mount
2015 composite motor mount
2015 center chassis stiffeners

There are some spacers and small bits etc that I'm probably missing to complete the full conversion, but knowing what I know now, this is how I'd do it. I actually bought all the top decks and the standard 2mm chassis and all the bits through that online auction site, so I did not spend top dollar. I've built it up this weekend finally, but still have not raced it. Still might get the 3mm chassis, but since I race on clay during the summer I will wait to see if it is the way to go or not.

D.
Yeah, I am looking at still building in saddle config, but want to move to the center differential.
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Old 03-17-2015, 08:21 AM
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Anyone have a set of ball diffs laying around?

Know what they weigh?
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Old 03-17-2015, 11:09 AM
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Originally Posted by MaricopaAgent View Post
Anyone have a set of ball diffs laying around?

Know what they weigh?
No sorry brother. I can tell you regarding gear diff weights. The steel gears are 15 grams heavier per each application set, than the graphite composite gears.


Best,

J
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Old 03-17-2015, 08:43 PM
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What Front and Rear wheels is everyone using with what 12mm hubs?
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Old 03-17-2015, 09:00 PM
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Zx5 fronts with rb6 rears
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Old 03-18-2015, 12:44 AM
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ooops
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Old 03-18-2015, 12:45 AM
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Originally Posted by mcion View Post
What Front and Rear wheels is everyone using with what 12mm hubs?

TLR 22-4 front wheels, TLR/AVID 22 2.0/22-4 rear wheels on Exotek B44 front and rear hexes, fits in the box we use to make sure the cars are legal, if I go pills out on the front hinge pin carriers, I use a low profile wheel nut just to make sure it fits in ok.
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Old 03-18-2015, 04:35 AM
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Default Diff problem...

Hey guys,

I am running a XB4 2013 on a high traction, very bumpy carpet track.
I was sick of replacing the diff gears every 5-6 meets, so late last year I purchased the metal gearing front and rear. After 1 meet my front bevel has 3 teeth completly missing, I had not changed the slipper or braking. and now the rear is missing 1 tooth!

I have gone back to the plastic gearing but wondering if the 2015 gears fit the 2013? Or if there is something im doing wrong?

I know one of my friends was thinking of shimming the bevel closer to the diif gear, could this be an option?

Thanks in advance
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