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Old 02-14-2015, 09:36 PM   #7156
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Originally Posted by HeavyD99 View Post
To covert the Xray 'dot' into a more typical spring rate in Lbs., multiply the "c" rating of the spring by 5.71.

So, a rear spring is a 1 dot, or c=.35, so .35x5.71=1.99! That's 2lbs. TLR yellow. Boom. Or go to the chart about and pick your favourite manufacturer and get their equivalent to 2lbs. I run TLR LF springs in the back, which is white. Up front I run Xray 2 dot.
Awesome thanks.
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Old 02-14-2015, 09:48 PM   #7157
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Quick Question?

Any need for aftermarket diff o-rings? or are the 15 kit diff o-rings gtg?


Best,
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Old 02-14-2015, 10:30 PM   #7158
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Quick Question?

Any need for aftermarket diff o-rings? or are the 15 kit diff o-rings gtg?


Best,
Never had any problems with the stock orings for the last couple of years.

Just let them soak in oil before assembly and they will keep your diffs leak free.

Most important thing is to not over tighten the small screws for the diff housings.

Over tightening these will cause both leaks and improper meshing of the internal gears as the diff will expand under load.
This is also the no. 1 reason for people having problems with the internal diff gears.

Bent
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Old 02-15-2015, 05:02 AM   #7159
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Bent
Could you please explain to me how the composite diff gears give more traction in low grip conditions as I don't understand how this works. I am considering building a 2015 car with the old composite crown and pinions for a slippy track.
Thanks
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Old 02-15-2015, 07:42 AM   #7160
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Default Graphite composite gears?

I had the first release of this chassis...and we did have a lot of issues with the cases...not only leaking...but easily breaking too in collisions. A lot of us went out and replaced the gears with a metal alternative from an onroad car (I think it was an NT1 or something). Has that been abandoned...and this new composite is fine? I'm unsure of the benefit in dumping money on gear material...when the issue is with the user (tightening)


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Thanks Bent! Would it be wise to run the graphite gears in the center gear diff or just run the regular composites gears that come with the center gear diff kit?

Thanks again,

Joel
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Old 02-15-2015, 08:00 AM   #7161
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Looking at getting a xb4 was wondering about the pro's and cons of this wheeler?
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Old 02-15-2015, 08:40 AM   #7162
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Originally Posted by turtle189 View Post
Looking at getting a xb4 was wondering about the pro's and cons of this wheeler?
I just order a 15 and was wondering the same thing.
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Old 02-15-2015, 09:02 AM   #7163
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Looking at getting a xb4 was wondering about the pro's and cons of this wheeler?

Great car, easy to work on. Tough like an 1/8th scale.

Parts are spendy, center gear diff parts are hard to get still. And outdrives seem to wear faster than other brands.
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Old 02-15-2015, 09:15 AM   #7164
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Originally Posted by MaricopaAgent View Post
Great car, easy to work on. Tough like an 1/8th scale.

Parts are spendy, center gear diff parts are hard to get still. And outdrives seem to wear faster than other brands.
I know parts are pricey was looking at that last night. How is parts availability?
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Old 02-15-2015, 09:24 AM   #7165
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Originally Posted by turtle189 View Post
I know parts are pricey was looking at that last night. How is parts availability?
Parts availability is rough for everything thing right now due to the strikes
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Old 02-15-2015, 09:32 AM   #7166
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Originally Posted by UKracer1 View Post
Bent
Could you please explain to me how the composite diff gears give more traction in low grip conditions as I don't understand how this works. I am considering building a 2015 car with the old composite crown and pinions for a slippy track.
Thanks
Quote:
Originally Posted by scottreida View Post
I had the first release of this chassis...and we did have a lot of issues with the cases...not only leaking...but easily breaking too in collisions. A lot of us went out and replaced the gears with a metal alternative from an onroad car (I think it was an NT1 or something). Has that been abandoned...and this new composite is fine? I'm unsure of the benefit in dumping money on gear material…when the issue is with the user (tightening)

We actually prefer the heavier steel bevel and satellite gears for the diffs when running in low grip conditions. We find the added inertia from the added weight of the gears make it easier to be aggressive without making the buggy nervous.

We always use the hardened alu. diff pins when building diffs though and for the 35T bevel gear we use the aluminum one for the lighter weight (compared to steel) and added durability.

The graphite and steel bevel & satellite gears are nothing new as these have been around for quite a while as option parts for the NT1 and T4 series of vehicles.

The XB4 now has a whole range of different materials to pick and choose from for building the diffs.

These different materials allows you to further fine tune your XB4 to match both different track conditions as well as your driving style and personal preferences.

The graphite parts are the lightest and will have the least amount of resistance while the steel counterparts will be the heaviest.

We pick and choose from these materials to build diffs that both last and give that right feel on the different tracks

Bent


Diff. 35T bevel gear:
#364935 Graphite
#364945 Aluminum
#364955 Steel

Bevel & satellite gears:
#304931 Graphite
#304930 Composite
#335030 Steel

Diff. pins:
#304980 Composite
#335081 Alu. hard coated
#335080 Steel
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Last edited by BentKa; 02-15-2015 at 10:16 AM.
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Old 02-15-2015, 10:09 AM   #7167
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The only thing I would suggest to get is front inner hinge pins and front arms...
One never nows when a pole will jump in front of you!!!! lol
Other wise great car so glade i waited for the 15 to come out!!
Even though the issues were handled professionally ...thanks xray!!!
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Old 02-15-2015, 10:29 AM   #7168
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MaricopaAgent View Post
Great car, easy to work on. Tough like an 1/8th scale.

Parts are spendy, center gear diff parts are hard to get still. And outdrives seem to wear faster than other brands.
Parts might not be as cheap as some, but then you don't tend to break it much, I've broken one V1 front bulkhead (solved with a Ralls racing bulkhead saver) & one turnbuckle end since it came out in 2013. Done a couple of sets of gears, but that's more down to liking a tight slipper.

I find the outdrives only really wear if you don't change the drive shaft pins often enough, keep an eye on those & you'll stop most wear on the outdrives.
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Old 02-15-2015, 10:39 AM   #7169
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BentKa View Post
We actually prefer the heavier steel bevel and satellite gears for the diffs when running in low grip conditions. We find the added inertia from the added weight of the gears make it easier to be aggressive without making the buggy nervous.

We always use the hardened alu. diff pins when building diffs though and for the 35T bevel gear we use the aluminum one for the lighter weight (compared to steel) and added durability.

The graphite and steel bevel & satellite gears are nothing new as these have been around for quite a while as option parts for the NT1 and T4 series of vehicles.

The XB4 now has a whole range of different materials to pick and choose from for building the diffs.

These different materials allows you to further fine tune your XB4 to match both different track conditions as well as your driving style and personal preferences.

The graphite parts are the lightest and will have the least amount of resistance while the steel counterparts will be the heaviest.

We pick and choose from these materials to build diffs that both last and give that right feel on the different tracks

Bent


Diff. 35T bevel gear:
#364935 Graphite
#364945 Aluminum
#364955 Steel

Bevel & satellite gears:
#304931 Graphite
#304930 Composite
#335030 Steel

Diff. pins:
#304980 Composite
#335081 Alu. hard coated
#335080 Steel
What kind of gears do you run on carpet? Steel or Composite?

Also I run on low-medium grip dirt and we have a bumpy sweeper and all through the sweeper the rear end is all over the place because it bounces and also at different parts of the track. I've already tried smaller hole pistons in the shocks in the rear to try to give the rear more pack and it's still not getting the job done. Any suggestions?

Last edited by blwaz23; 02-15-2015 at 10:57 AM.
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Old 02-15-2015, 01:27 PM   #7170
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BentKa View Post
We actually prefer the heavier steel bevel and satellite gears for the diffs when running in low grip conditions. We find the added inertia from the added weight of the gears make it easier to be aggressive without making the buggy nervous.

We always use the hardened alu. diff pins when building diffs though and for the 35T bevel gear we use the aluminum one for the lighter weight (compared to steel) and added durability.

The graphite and steel bevel & satellite gears are nothing new as these have been around for quite a while as option parts for the NT1 and T4 series of vehicles.

The XB4 now has a whole range of different materials to pick and choose from for building the diffs.

These different materials allows you to further fine tune your XB4 to match both different track conditions as well as your driving style and personal preferences.

The graphite parts are the lightest and will have the least amount of resistance while the steel counterparts will be the heaviest.

We pick and choose from these materials to build diffs that both last and give that right feel on the different tracks

Bent


Diff. 35T bevel gear:
#364935 Graphite
#364945 Aluminum
#364955 Steel

Bevel & satellite gears:
#304931 Graphite
#304930 Composite
#335030 Steel

Diff. pins:
#304980 Composite
#335081 Alu. hard coated
#335080 Steel
Thanks Bent for taking the time for such a thorough reply, so if I understand correctly, if you were building the ultimate diff for really low grip conditions you would build it with heavy internal gears (steel bevel and satellite with alu pins) and then light external 35t gear (aluminium or possibly graphite if durability wasn't a concern?)

When it comes to the 14T bevel gear, purely from a grip point of view, would you choose to use the steel gear (2015) or the composite gear (2013 & 2014) again if durability wasn't a concern.

Thanks
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