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Old 01-20-2015, 09:08 AM   #6496
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My 2015 XB4 keeps getting better! Running the shorty and center diff with 100k. I have no issues with forward bite using 100k. I've read a few guys wanting to go higher than 100k to be able to clear some of their bigger jumps but that is not my experience thus far. Last night I was consistently hitting a triple located immediately after a sharp 90 deg turn; a jump I previously would just double-single. The center diff for me on clay is infinitely better than the slipper! I Love this wheeler!
what front and rear diff oils are you using with the 100k center diff. Also what motor and esc and esc profile if u know?

Nevermind I saw you post it down the page a bit. The funny thing is I'm running the same setup, 8k/100k/5k with orion r10.1 pro and orions vst2 6.5t with some timing and turbo but still not able to clear the quad that some other drivers were able to clear. I guess I'll try some more timing and see if it helps
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Old 01-20-2015, 09:20 AM   #6497
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What kind of gearing should I start with for a 7.5 motor in my '15? It's a medium sized indoor clay track.
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Old 01-20-2015, 10:24 AM   #6498
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what front and rear diff oils are you using with the 100k center diff. Also what motor and esc and esc profile if u know?

Nevermind I saw you post it down the page a bit. The funny thing is I'm running the same setup, 8k/100k/5k with orion r10.1 pro and orions vst2 6.5t with some timing and turbo but still not able to clear the quad that some other drivers were able to clear. I guess I'll try some more timing and see if it helps
I run a Reedy Sonic Mach2 7.5t with the HobbyWing V3.1. I don't customize the settings ESC for anything except brake strength & neutral width. Is it possible your spinning the wheels when you punch the throttle and losing some forward bite? Maybe you've actually got too much power you're actually losing traction with the initial punch and you don't realize it? Have you tried going back to the slipper and seeing if you can clear the quad?

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What kind of gearing should I start with for a 7.5 motor in my '15? It's a medium sized indoor clay track.
I run 22/81 with my Reedy Sonic Mach 2 7.5. I've been running on a med/large indoor clay track. I could probably go up a tooth on the pinion if I really wanted as my motor and ESC temps are only in the 130-140 deg range.
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Old 01-20-2015, 12:58 PM   #6499
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Originally Posted by randy0025 View Post
what front and rear diff oils are you using with the 100k center diff. Also what motor and esc and esc profile if u know?

Nevermind I saw you post it down the page a bit. The funny thing is I'm running the same setup, 8k/100k/5k with orion r10.1 pro and orions vst2 6.5t with some timing and turbo but still not able to clear the quad that some other drivers were able to clear. I guess I'll try some more timing and see if it helps
Maybe trying raising your ride height. The extra spring makes a different on jumps.
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Old 01-20-2015, 07:44 PM   #6500
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got 1 on the way
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Old 01-20-2015, 08:19 PM   #6501
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Well '15 is built short of a center diff.

'14 was a dream to build with the best instructions I've seen put in a box.

Attempting to build the new car in shorty configuration What a pain in the ass, unnecessarily complicated mistake ladened waste of paper.

The bad: Base setup calls for no sway bars F/R? Springs in the kit don't match the setup sheet. Still the same junk pistons and weak shock O-rings.

The good: Still amazing Xray quality in everything else.

The yet to be seen: Some serious rollcenter changes from the '14 car, weight loss and center diff action...
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Old 01-21-2015, 05:18 AM   #6502
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After few packs I broke the center upper deck and kept popping out the front hing pins SMH just wondering if the front and rear hing pins are the same size ????
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Old 01-21-2015, 07:59 AM   #6503
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After few packs I broke the center upper deck and kept popping out the front hing pins SMH just wondering if the front and rear hing pins are the same size ????
sounds like you broke the front bulkhead..
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Old 01-21-2015, 01:50 PM   #6504
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You guys with the 2015 should take a look at your rear toe block. I could see mine was off by eye and confirmed it with calipers. A friend of mine is building his 2015 and his is off too. I sent an email to rc america and they're looking into it.

https://www.dropbox.com/sh/m5h99p73q...MaJXbMJTa?dl=0
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Old 01-21-2015, 02:36 PM   #6505
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Interesting...I'm building mines now and will have to check tonight...

On another note...the instruction manual is very lacking in my opinion...especially if you are building for a shorty pack.

Also, a few of my ball cups fit way too snug and don't move freely. Had to pop them off and on a couple of times to get them to free up a little bit. Anyone have the same issue?
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Old 01-21-2015, 03:16 PM   #6506
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You guys with the 2015 should take a look at your rear toe block. I could see mine was off by eye and confirmed it with calipers. A friend of mine is building his 2015 and his is off too. I sent an email to rc america and they're looking into it.

https://www.dropbox.com/sh/m5h99p73q...MaJXbMJTa?dl=0
That is interesting..
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Old 01-21-2015, 03:16 PM   #6507
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I should of taken pics smh. My buddy is building me a CF 3mm center upper deck piece should give it some more strength
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Old 01-21-2015, 03:23 PM   #6508
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You guys with the 2015 should take a look at your rear toe block. I could see mine was off by eye and confirmed it with calipers. A friend of mine is building his 2015 and his is off too. I sent an email to rc america and they're looking into it.

https://www.dropbox.com/sh/m5h99p73q...MaJXbMJTa?dl=0
And to add to this, I could see mine was off by looking at the gap between the inner arms and edge of chassis looking from the bottom. The calipers were to verify. .020" isn't a lot but enough to see by eye.
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Old 01-21-2015, 04:55 PM   #6509
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Originally Posted by rcgod View Post
You guys with the 2015 should take a look at your rear toe block. I could see mine was off by eye and confirmed it with calipers. A friend of mine is building his 2015 and his is off too. I sent an email to rc america and they're looking into it.

https://www.dropbox.com/sh/m5h99p73q...MaJXbMJTa?dl=0
When I was on the phone with Brian from RCAmerica about a week and a half ago, about my issue with the dogbones bottoming out in the drive cups, we were both measuring parts to compare. My rear black was about .5mm farther out on the right side, the one he measured from the warehouse was about .3mm I believe. I really need to get the RF one out and check it. I measured from the inside edge of the screw hole to the outside edge of the square hole and had about .5mm difference between the sides....and it was also noticeable by eye when looking at the gap from the arm.
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Old 01-21-2015, 04:59 PM   #6510
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And to add to this, I could see mine was off by looking at the gap between the inner arms and edge of chassis looking from the bottom. The calipers were to verify. .020" isn't a lot but enough to see by eye.
Doesn't sound like a lot, but it may cause a substantial enough difference in toe angle between the 2 sides.......
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