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Old 02-24-2013, 07:05 AM
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Originally Posted by zzztech View Post
XRay kits you need Hudy drivers or they will strip
That was my thought as well, I should have known better, I knew they put that hudy catalog in there for a reason!
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Old 02-24-2013, 10:44 AM
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Is it just me or do you have to take the motor out to change a pinion.

problem solved, thanks too my 30year old dremel which NEVER gets unplugged

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Old 02-24-2013, 01:02 PM
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Everyone running same oil and pistons or is there a rule of thumb on them ?
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Old 02-24-2013, 01:50 PM
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Originally Posted by jlfx car audio View Post
Everyone running same oil and pistons or is there a rule of thumb on them ?
Eric Schoen came out to our last big race and shared a bunch of tips w/ me. I attached his setup sheet. For reference, I was running the box setup (10/5 for diffs). Needless to say, the difference was drastic and to me, really woke the car up.

It still rotates our 180 hairpins on a dime. However, what I needed to fix was calming my rear end down when downsiding jumps. For example, I'd downside a jump, get on the throttle, and the rear end would get out of shape (squirrely) relatively easily. Eric advised to close the F/R gap in diff oils. (ie., 7/5 or 10/7) Well, that did the trick.

http://forum.teamxray.com/xform/inde...D=38&setup=xb4

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Old 02-24-2013, 04:16 PM
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Originally Posted by 305M3 View Post
Eric Schoen came out to our last big race and shared a bunch of tips w/ me. I attached his setup sheet. For reference, I was running the box setup (10/5 for diffs). Needless to say, the difference was drastic and to me, really woke the car up for me.

It still rotates our 180 hairpins on a dime. However, what I needed to fix was calming my rear end down when downsiding jumps. For example, I'd downside a jump, get on the throttle, and the rear end would get out of shape (squirrely) relatively easily. Eric advised to close the F/R gap in diff oils. (ie., 7/5 or 10/7) Well, that did the trick.

http://forum.teamxray.com/xform/inde...D=38&setup=xb4
Thanks for posting. Iv'e been running 5/3 for weeks and am anxious to try o couple other things in that setup.
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Old 02-24-2013, 06:25 PM
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The setup sheet on the forum changed some things when I saved it. I'm running .5 up on the FF hingepin holder. The other three are still all in the middle. I'm at 5F 3R for the diffs, I'm running the kit pistons with 35f 30r losi oils. Medium flex chassis settings. Oh I also dropped my ride hight down to 17f 18r.
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Old 02-24-2013, 07:12 PM
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Originally Posted by Eric Schoen View Post
The setup sheet on the forum changed some things when I saved it. I'm running .5 up on the FF hingepin holder. The other three are still all in the middle. I'm at 5F 3R for the diffs, I'm running the kit pistons with 35f 30r losi oils. Medium flex chassis settings. Oh I also dropped my ride hight down to 17f 18r.
Hey Eric, thanks for the updates. Yesterday was the first day I got to try out the tips you gave me during the region 2 final.

The 5/3 Front/Rear diff oil setup made the car very predictable off the jumps. However, in the hands of the less experienced (me), it made other aspects a bit TOO lively... I just need more wheel time and I'll in corporate some of your other tips.

Thanks again for taking the time out of your race day to help out...
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Old 02-24-2013, 07:30 PM
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Have they sent out fix it parts yet?
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Old 02-24-2013, 08:00 PM
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The upgrade packs have already been delivered to all the shops who had sold XB4's. If you haven't gotten one yet contact who you bought it from.
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Old 02-25-2013, 12:56 AM
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Hi guy's
I'm fairly new to electric racing however I have just built my xb4 coming from a kyosho and my question is regarding wheel hexes. Are the smaller kyosho ones more of a standard compared to the larger xray hexes. I'm asking as i have a heap of glued up kyosho rims on aka rubber and was wondering if i just try and get smaller hexes for the xray or just sell my old rims and stay with the larger hexes.
Much appreciate some advice on this.
Cheers
Kev
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Old 02-25-2013, 01:49 AM
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Yes I found closing the gap on the front and rear diff oils a massive improvement on the rear ends actions of wanting to unload.

I am running 7/5 in mine and like it a lot and also have gone to the .5 up in the FF pin holder.

I am going to try lighter oil but with 2 hole custom pistons @ 1.6mm
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Old 02-25-2013, 07:35 AM
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Originally Posted by Soapy View Post
Hi guy's
I'm fairly new to electric racing however I have just built my xb4 coming from a kyosho and my question is regarding wheel hexes. Are the smaller kyosho ones more of a standard compared to the larger xray hexes. I'm asking as i have a heap of glued up kyosho rims on aka rubber and was wondering if i just try and get smaller hexes for the xray or just sell my old rims and stay with the larger hexes.
Much appreciate some advice on this.
Cheers
Kev
I too have a ZX5FS2 for sale
The fronts just use the Kyosho hex and they go right on, the offset is a couple mm off. The rear offset is way off so no go there.
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Old 02-26-2013, 06:30 AM
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oh boy, went to practice last night and handed the controller to a relatively new racer and he immediately turned into a world champ.... flawless driving, not fast but he was greasing the downside of everything and totally in control. I had to work to match his times. Needless to say he loved the car.
I think I'll just stay in bed all day.
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Old 02-26-2013, 06:44 AM
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Man don't that piss u off. Lol hate it when that happens
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Old 02-26-2013, 07:51 AM
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Building my car and the rear diff definitely has a spot where it hits resistance, not spinning freely. Same spot every rotation of the diff bevel gear, there is resistance. Its not the bevel gear itself though, teeth look fine.

Should I not worry about it now and it will break in with some use and not have that resistance anymore, or is there something else inside the diff or somewhere else to look at that would cause resistance

I'd rather not get it all together and immediately have to pull it back a part at the track if this is a serious prob and going to add permanent resistance to the drive train.
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