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Old 02-08-2013, 11:24 AM
  #1531  
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Originally Posted by Diggity View Post
Diggity Designs is proud to announce the release of their 4mm replacement towers for the XB4 with material added at the "breaking" point of the OEM towers. Some pics below and a link to the XB4 product page.




http://www.diggitydesigns.com/products_Xray_XB4.html

Got my Diggity Designs shock towers today. Lookin' good!
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Old 02-08-2013, 11:30 AM
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Originally Posted by losi b View Post
So, where did she finish?
She finished 4th in this Leg1 of the A-finals

Originally Posted by asc6000 View Post
Hey Bentka , which car is your daughters ? does she have a nickname yet ?
She's the #6 XB4 with White, Violet, Silver and Black body.

Same body as my avatar

No nickname yet......but she uses MalinKa on Mylaps and MyRCM

Bent
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Old 02-08-2013, 01:48 PM
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Just an fyi:

Last time I has my xb4 apart due to what I thought were transmission problems, I found that the motor was touching off on the plastic chassis tub either due to motor plate or chassis flex. The rear bearing in the motor was toast. I shaved the plastic tub in that area to give the motor plenty of clearance, so hopefully all should be fine now.
Check it when you can! It could cost you a motor.

Last edited by annonymous; 02-08-2013 at 03:05 PM.
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Old 02-08-2013, 02:48 PM
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Why would the motor touching the chassis tub cause motor bearing failure??
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Old 02-08-2013, 02:56 PM
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Originally Posted by Odin544 View Post
Why would the motor touching the chassis tub cause motor bearing failure??
Repeated flex would cause the front bearing to bind up against the 5mm shaft. But I still don't get why the rear would be ruined.
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Old 02-08-2013, 03:00 PM
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Originally Posted by Odin544 View Post
Why would the motor touching the chassis tub cause motor bearing failure??
Motors aren't built to be loaded like that, have you ever noticed how thin the wall is on a 540 can? The only "structural" part of the motor is the mounting face/plate, the rest is enough to support itself, not withstand being forced to bend across the rotor axis. I have noticed this on several other cars and every time it ended in bearing failure. The abrupt shock from touching the chassis may be enough to kill the bearing, or it could be completely unrelated - either way, I'm not a big fan of having a big flat spot on the bottor of my $100 motor

Edit: I completely forgot to mention that back plate on the motor had been tweaked right where it was touching the chassis - I imagine this misalignment is what killed the bearing, but it was caused by the motor touching off either way.
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Old 02-08-2013, 03:02 PM
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Originally Posted by aloksatoor View Post
I have used this servo before in RB5 without a servo saver and it stripped. In the xb4 it should be fine though just check your saver frequently and be sure it does not bind up. The torque is enough, speed is enough. Just not titanium. I like the BLS451 in my car now more than the savox 1258, it centers better.
I had a 1251 in mine and stripped the gears. My servo saver was a bit more than half way tight at the time. I've since switched to a 1258 with no issues.
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Old 02-08-2013, 04:17 PM
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Yep I would avoid the 1251 mg for 1/10 scale. If you really wnt a low pro, radio post makes some good ones and so does futaba...
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Old 02-08-2013, 05:36 PM
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I too had a endbell bearing go out. The screws holding it to the can being missing didn't help. oh well.
Now you have me thinking the flex/contact worked the screws loose ( two piece can orion ).
The chassis contact is there I didn't think about it being that severe.

Last edited by asc6000; 02-08-2013 at 05:54 PM.
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Old 02-08-2013, 06:00 PM
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Originally Posted by asc6000 View Post
I too had a endbell bearing go out. The screws holding it to the can being missing didn't help. oh well.
Now you have me thinking the flex/contact worked the screws loose ( two piece can orion ).
The chassis contact is there I didn't think about it being that severe.
That is exactly my story, with the same motor even. I lock tite'd the crap out if those screws, and have had zero problem in the past two cars it's been in - the top two were perfectly right, the bottom two closest to the contact point were very loose
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Old 02-08-2013, 07:04 PM
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Please put up some set ups for clay tracks looking for more info on what everybody is doing in us on indoor clay
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Old 02-08-2013, 08:50 PM
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Originally Posted by Catzilla View Post
Please put up some set ups for clay tracks looking for more info on what everybody is doing in us on indoor clay
I've split the difference between the two setup sheets by using the .5 bushings in all but the rear hinge pin brace. My track has very hi bite where we usually run slicks.
I tried the progressive springs tonite but they immediately caused traction rolls in the faster turns. on some pins or a lower traction they could be very good as the car seemed to react a little quicker with those springs on.

I also played with the stiffening screws by simply unscrewing a turn or so on various ones. I settled on the center 4 screws tight and the outer 4 corners loosened a turn.

I tried the rear shocks inside on the arm too. Car was a little more forgiving that way. Not necessarily faster tho. it seemed to smooth out the cornering a touch so the car wanted to carve the turns just a little more.

oh yea. one more thing...I am running some 30wt oil in the rear shocks. The 300cst is close to 27.5 wt and was really good but the car seemed to bounce just a little over smaller bumps on the track. The 30wt seemed to make the car smooth out over the bumps.

Hope that helps.
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Old 02-08-2013, 09:26 PM
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Originally Posted by Catzilla View Post
Please put up some set ups for clay tracks looking for more info on what everybody is doing in us on indoor clay
There is quite few on petitrc.com

http://www.petitrc.com/setup/xray/Se...tsXrayXB4.html
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Old 02-09-2013, 07:24 AM
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At the track right now watchn Paul L. Test his XB4 woooe fast and smooth.
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Old 02-09-2013, 09:09 AM
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Originally Posted by RShockley View Post
wow
http://www.petitrc.com/setup/xray/se...RC20130122.pdf
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