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Old 10-28-2012, 01:22 AM   #1
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Default Want to get into 1:10 offroad and need some advice :-)

Hi guys,

like the title says, im looking at getting into 10th scale offroad and need some help with what to get. i currently race 8th scale nitro offroad. 8th scale EP offroad is not that big over here so that is not an option, im not into doing 3 car exhibition races i also thought that perhaps i can limit my spending some by trying out a new EP class and putting the nitro stuff away for now. The maintenance in nitro is a bummer sometimes and although i still enjoy it, costs are just getting a bit silly atm for me.

Obviously 4WD seem the most alluring for me since there might be some knowledge transfer from 1:8th offroad GP. I've raced mugen, xray, and JQ in 1:8 offroad GP so i know my way around a toy car.
Could you lot please chime in and advise me which buggies are currently the best in terms of durabilty, cost,performance etc. im looking at all of them at the moment. the schumacher has cought my eye thus far, but i like the kyosho, durango and b44 too. also...the upcoming xb4 might have me wait it out till that gets released.

also, what electronics are recommended? obviously id like to b competitive right from the get go.

alot of questions i know, but thought ill ask here first before i go to a track and bother someone there lol.

thanks alot for your input and help!
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Old 10-28-2012, 02:13 AM   #2
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Tekin, Orion, and hobbywing all make decent esc's for 1/10. If you are dead set on 4wd I would suggest a durango. Schumacher is nice, but the parts support is tougher than the already tough durango parts support. Losi probably has the best parts support in general, but the XXX4 is dated. The AE car is nice. It's an evolving car of sorts. Caster racing has one of the nicest cars out at the moment but parts support has me worried there too. Trinity has always been real good to me with 1/10 motors, and the tekin is one of the most popular. There are tons of other too, what I mentioned is my preference. There is some real high end botique stuff, but I personally feel some of that is not needed for a club racer.
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Old 10-28-2012, 02:47 AM   #3
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cool thanks. Schumacher, durango AE and kuosho seem to have some proper support over here so i guess parts would not be an issue with those cars. Durango maybe less since the distributor is located a few 100km's away. what motor sizes are generally run in the different classes? i think id be looking at getting both a 4wd and a 2wd buggy to run two classes. Also, do all the new gen 1-10th ESCs support high voltage Lipos or do you still need regulators? sorry if the questions are dumb lol
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Old 10-28-2012, 04:06 AM   #4
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I have owned a B44.1,

Drove the Schuie, Dingo, and Lazer. All are very capable cars, and each have their own Por's and Con's. 4wd buggies aren't always the most durable cars, but have come a long way. Still can't totally beat them to death though.

If you looking at a 2wd buggy as well, then I'd suggest pick a wheeler and 2wd from the same Mfg. Helps keep the parts counts down a little, but there are some exceptions (the newest Kyosho RB6 comes to mind). So with that in mind:

B44.1/.2:
Very good car and probably one of the easiest to get dialed in. If you want the new .2 you'll get the new BB shocks and some other goodies that weren't on the .1. Pretty standard chassis layout and is proven. The rear diff case can brake on the front lower mount. Gives the buggy a lot more flex in the rear which can make the car feel a little inconisitant at times. Front arms do brake and the .1 front shock shafts had some brakeage issues that might have been fixed. If not, a new set usually fixed it. Not sure what changes were made between the kit shafts and the non kit shafts. Ring and pinion can strip a little easier than some like, keep up on the correct shimming and you shoul dbe good to go for a while.

Dingo:
Design wise, one of the more out of the box thinking designs. It's also one of two wheelers I know of that run an Alum. chassis. Fairly durable, more so with the V3 they have out now. I think they fixed a lot of the issues with the two previous gens on the V3. Front and Rear diff are gear diffs, much like you are used to with 1/8th. Can be a big plus for some and not so much for others. Might take a little time to get the diffs dialed in for a given track, but when they are right, it's a fast car. The biggest issue I have seen with the Dingo, is heat issues. The chassis layout is pretty tight and the body fits pretty tight as well. Air flow or proper air flow for the elec. componets can be an issue. Maybe more so with the stock body. Wheelers run hotter than their 2wd counter parts, but the dingo seems to run just a bit hotter. Also the dingo wheels are very different than almost every other wheeler out. So wheel selection could be an issue if you're in a pinch

Schuie:
A pretty unique chassis layout. It works really well. When I drove one that a fellow racer had, I was faster with it in 6 laps than what I was with my B44.1. I was pretty suprised. I felt with more time on it, I could have went faster with a better setup. The one thing I didn't like was that it could feel a little unpredictable if the rear end stepped out. Sometimes it would just snap around and you couldn't always catch it. Could have been the setup that was on it, but I thought it might have a little more to do with the chassis layout. The only other complaint was parts. While better than it used to be, it's still not as good as I thought it would be. At least in the US. If parts aren't an issue where you are at, then one less thing to worry about.

Kyosho Lazer:
It's a Kyosho. High quality, but not cheap. The Kyosho BB springs are very good, but also the most expensive springs on the market. At 20 a pair, they're more expensive than the MP9 or ST-RR springs. After the cost of the kit, those springs are the second thing I have heard many complain about. Good thing there are other BB spring options out there now. The chassis layout on the newest gen is pretty cool. With the motor up front, it handles a lot like the old XX4 did, which I like. Yet still just a bit different. Felt stable and consistant. Parts support was an issue for the few racers I know that run them. Also with the new RB6, I don't think there's a lot of parts that work between the 2wd and wheeler now, so that may be something to look at if you want to run both.

Motor:
Most racers that run the wheeler class, seem to prefer a 6.5. A few have ran the 8.5 and I ran a 7.5. The 8.5 never seemed to have enough motor, even when boosted and turbo'd out. The 6.5 always felt just a bit too fast, as in you always had way more motor than what you needed. I went with a 7.5 and never felt like I lacked motor. So I'd go with a 7.5 or 6.5 for mod as those tow seem to be the most used where I run.

ESC's:
Some good choices out there now. If money isn't a huge concern, you could probably get a Motor and ESC combo. If you run the Tekin, make sure it's the RS Pro and not the regular RS. The Pro runs cooler than the RS and it's better suited in the wheeler. The Orions are real good. One of the smoothest feeling ESC's I have drove. Down side to the Orion is you need the programer box, which is an added expense. The LRP is good, though some were having some issues with the SXX V2 series. Not sure what those were. They do have a new ESC now that is supposed to replace the SXX line or is rumored to be. Looks pretty good, but have yet to see one in person.

Also I know Associated was having a deal on some of the old LRP Sphere TC ESC's a while back. Not sure if that deal is still there, but You could get a Sphere TC for a 100 with a ESC trade in. Not the most tunable ESC like the newer gen's, but pretty bullet proof and still competitive.
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Old 10-28-2012, 04:31 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Teufel Racing View Post
I have owned a B44.1,

Drove the Schuie, Dingo, and Lazer. All are very capable cars, and each have their own Por's and Con's....
WOW thanks...exactly the help i was looking for..since i dont really know what motors guys run etc. you literally aswered 90% of my questions i had with one post thanks! ok so it seems the dingo might be moving down my list of choices...especially bcase of the tyre and heat thing you mentioned. it gets real hot where i race...like 30*C + in summer. as far as i know the top guy in our country races dingos..but he is also the distributor so he never really has issues with parts i guess lol. I literally just found out where i can buy the different cars and there are two LHS that stock schumacher in my area so it might be a deciding factor....also the AE distributor is located nearby. i have owned one of the first B4's before back when they first came out and i liked it alot, but quality was not that good for me...but then again i understand that it has gone through some major upgrades ove the years. obviously i like the way the Schumacher looks..as well as the B44. alot of high quality bling on there it seems...same with the dingo. So i guess with that said...it will probably be a toss up between the SX3/SVR and the B44.2/B4.2.

you mentioned 7.5 turn motors. is that for 4x4 and 2x4 buggies? Also...what batery packs do you prefer?

thanks for all the help
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Old 10-28-2012, 05:00 AM   #6
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That is for 4x4 buggies. 2wd mods are usually around 8.5-10.5 or blinky 17's. Blinky can get really fun in the 2wd. Definitely a drivers race.



If you got two locals that stock schuie, I would probably go with them. I personally like them more than the b44 platform, even though them are amazing and simple to dial in.
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Old 10-28-2012, 05:09 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sideshow Bob View Post
WOW thanks...exactly the help i was looking for..since i dont really know what motors guys run etc. you literally aswered 90% of my questions i had with one post thanks! ok so it seems the dingo might be moving down my list of choices...especially bcase of the tyre and heat thing you mentioned. it gets real hot where i race...like 30*C + in summer. as far as i know the top guy in our country races dingos..but he is also the distributor so he never really has issues with parts i guess lol. I literally just found out where i can buy the different cars and there are two LHS that stock schumacher in my area so it might be a deciding factor....also the AE distributor is located nearby. i have owned one of the first B4's before back when they first came out and i liked it alot, but quality was not that good for me...but then again i understand that it has gone through some major upgrades ove the years. obviously i like the way the Schumacher looks..as well as the B44. alot of high quality bling on there it seems...same with the dingo. So i guess with that said...it will probably be a toss up between the SX3/SVR and the B44.2/B4.2.

you mentioned 7.5 turn motors. is that for 4x4 and 2x4 buggies? Also...what batery packs do you prefer?

thanks for all the help
Glad the info helped.

AE quality isn't what it used to be (B2-B3 era), the parts slop is another thing that bugs racers, but the slop doesn't seem to affect it as much as some others. I guess it s preferance thing. Some racers don't like slop at all, but in offroad, some slop can be a good thing.

I will assume that you're out side the US and probably run a more European style track. If so the Dingo might not be that bad heat wise. I'm not super sure on that, so more detailed info in that specific style track would probably be better info for you. I do like the designs of the Dingo's though and their 2wd has just about everything you need in the box for just about any style of track (rear motor/mid motor/3 gear tranny/4gear tranny) really good stuff in my opinion.

7.5 motor for both 2wd and 4wd?
Yup, you can run a 7.5 in both. More so now that the new ESC's have boost and turbo settings that can make a motor much faster than what it is rated. Can make motor choices a lot easier. Just be sure to keep the motor and ESC temps in check. 160f or less on the motor is what you want.

I run a 7.5 in my 2wd with no boost or turbo, only motor timing. After a 20 minute run motor is 130ish and ESC is 90-95f. Lots of room to work with. It's plenty fast for me and the track I run on (indoor clay). Mostly it's real reliable. Don't really feel that I get out motored as much as I get out driven most days.

When I had my B44.1 my motor and ESC was running, after a 16-20 minute run, 155f on the motor and about 140f on the ESC (I ran a Tekin RS to boot, not the RS Pro that I should have been running) and it was reliable, until I plugged in the ESC backwards ( twice, first time I got away with it). Rookie mistake.


Batts?
Right now I run the Reedy packs. A 5000 35c and a 5500 60c, both full size packs in the 2wd. I like them, but a lot of the 2wd racers are running the shorty packs in their 2wd's. There's plenty of Batt Co.'s/Mfg.'s to choose from. You can pretty much spend as much or as little as you want and still have some good packs. 2wd's seem to be pretty easy on packs and most choose their pack based on weight. AE had a couple of setups that listed some different packs that were reccomended for weight. I know one of the Reedy Wolf packs that is a full size pack is real close in weight to their shorty pack, don't remember the numbers though.

4wd's all seem to use the saddle packs now. 5000-5500's seem to be the general Mah range that most go for. I ran a Pro Tek 5200 in my B44.1 when I had it and it was good. 50c rating if I remember right. Again lots of choices to pick from for those as well. I've seen the cheaper Gens Ace and Tenergy batts wrok well and the high dollar Orion/Trinity/Fantom/Reedy packs all used. Preferance I guess.
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Old 10-28-2012, 06:31 AM   #8
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If you're coming from 1/8th nitro, I'd suggest starting with the slowest motor that will get you around in the class you choose. These electric buggies have way more power to weight than 1/8 buggies and do everything instantly. It takes a little getting used to.

If you are going to run modified, I'd recommend the Novak GTB2 speed control. There is no need for timing advance features in modified and the Novaks are solid and inexpensive.

When you choose your kit, make sure parts are available locally or easily via internet. These break more often than the big cars.
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Old 10-28-2012, 09:13 PM   #9
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thanks for all the help guys!
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Old 10-28-2012, 09:32 PM   #10
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Don't forget the mid motor SV2.
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Old 10-28-2012, 09:55 PM   #11
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Teufel Racing nailed it on the head with his post on the buggies.

I have a Dex410 and I love it I'd say the biggest problem is the space for the electronics
but if you use a tekin RS pro and have a small-ish rx you should be good. Its just tight on space.

Heat wise I've had no problems. All you need is to make a vent hole in the body.
Also if you go with the Durango make sure to get the non-R ver. Its $100 more but worth it.
http://www.rctech.net/forum/11360602-post11304.html

Wheel wise I've had no problem and don't see how it would be a problem. It uses the same 4wd tire all 4wd buggies use.
Rims are 14mm and the Team Durango rims are inexpensive.
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