racer1812

iTrader: (31)

No idea why people would run SS hardware, if you want shiny vs. black go with Lunsford Ti stuff. IMO. I prefer the black look, no wasted money for me

thebomber

iTrader: (1)

I had the same experie ce. Im taking them out tomorrow.

racer1812

iTrader: (31)

taking out what? the set screws?, ya you don't need them. You can run the set screw and clip together but you have to center the pin EXACTLY when you put in the set screw or it will have a tight spot. I've done it but there's no need to.

ray_munday

iTrader: (4)

If there is too much play the gears will burn out quickly. One of my covers was a little tight but I ran the car in on the bench at 30% throttle for ~15 minutes and it freed up. One pack and it was spinning freely.

As mentioned, make sure you have trimmed the flashing off the back of the pinion gear and dont overtighten the gearbox screws (they need to be snug, but not cranked down). Its best to tap the threads in the gearbox with a steel screw as the alloy doesnt tap as well and is hard to feel when it is snug.

No need for the setscrews in the CVAs. A small drop of CA on the clip (make sure its at 90 deg to the pin hole, or the CA can jam the pin) and its all good.

Havent noticed a strong push with the 44.2, but have noticed a smoother rotation and it rides better over the bumps / smaller jumps. The darty behaviour of the 44.1 isnt so noticeable which should make it easier to drive for regular drivers. It still has plenty of steering.

Here is the setup I used (transferred the same setup from the 44.1 to the 44.2). I made some changes the standard AE BB setup as our tracks down here in Australia tend to be bumpier and the white springs on the back were way too stiff. Green probably OK for smoother tracks but our straight has some waves in it and the black rear springs helped it to ride much better through these yet didnt bottom over the big jumps.

http://www.keilorrc.org.au/setups/20...unday_Vics.pdf

L8r

Ray

rigor

iTrader: (44)

Hey Ray,

Congrats on your Associated sponsorship and 2 more recent state championships! And thanks for checking in on us here with the 44.2 and your setup sheets

Jesse H.

Sarinexia

iTrader: (89)

I spent 2 hours on the front tranny with the same exact issue..... Shimmed according to manual, even tried some different combo's. Soon as the cover went on.... Felt tight. Said screw it and continued on with the build.

Glad to see everyone else noticed the same thing and it will loosen up during break in. I've paid close attention to detail on my build and so far all the tips on here have been spot on and very helpful.

Tricks I've done:

1. Sanded diff rings
2. 2mm distance from diff cup to spring cover
3. Gorilla tape over chassis at saddle pack location to protect carbon fiber
4. All edges on every CF part sanded & rounded, black sharpie applied and CA sealed
5. Little bit of yamabond in some suspect areas of where screws may back out of the plastic parts they are in (e.g. Screws for A-Arm cotter pins)

So.... Thanks to everyone for sharing your tech tips and insight! Shocks are being started tonight!

Coolza

iTrader: (3)

I built my .2 last night and noticed the same thing. I had to trim the insite of the case small gear went in. Just a light trim near the bevel edge and it stopped the issue. when the cases were together it would cause the back side of the small gear to rub slightly. A bit of trimming and all was great.

ray_munday

iTrader: (4)

My pleasure to help out! Thanks for the congrats

BTW I run a help thread in the Aussie forum (see my sig). If you check out post#4 I have collated my info on the Associated vehicles (will be updated soon to include BB shocks and 44.2). if anyone from this forum wants to ask me a direct question, feel free to post in that thread.

Ray

dMITIj

what is yamabond and is there an other product that do the same thing? because i haven'r heard about "yamabond" here in Denmark

Best Regards.

Maxxingout

iTrader: (17)

Does anyone have any info on how to setup the f & r diffs? How tight, best way to break in, and so forth. I've done 2wd ball diffs but not sure on a 4wd?

Also are the the piston sizes that come in the kit 1.7,1.6,1.5? I tried getting calipers inside the hole but I really don't get a accurate reading.

t0p_sh0tta

iTrader: (35)

Same thing as the 2WD diffs. Take your time breaking them in and don't allow them to slip. Once you get them properly setup, you can adjust them ~1/8-1/4 turn either way to increase or decrease rotation.

rmtr

iTrader: (3)

Take a sharpie marker and color one side of the pistons,the size
Is stamped into the piston just hard to see till you color it.

Sarinexia

iTrader: (89)

Top -- I am 100% new to ball diffs and about to hit the "break in" bench phase. What do you mean "slip". I did everything as exactly stated on the forums and in the manual ---- there better not be any "slip" lol ---

Blah --- little confused on this process.

travymoto11

iTrader: (19)

Hope this helps a little.

The main point is that the slipper clutch needs to slip before the diff does.

If you have the diffs out of the car and on the bench......take two allen drivers and insert them into the outdrives(to hold the outdrives still). Try to turn the diff gear.....it should be very difficult to turn. If it's not...then diff is deffenately too loose....tighten 1/8th - 1/4qtr and re-check.

Does that make any sense?

MattP

iTrader: (440)

To anyone that has switched from the b44.1 to the b44.2 what driving differences have you noticed? Does the .2 just have better rough track handling as it's major attribute?