5k front and rear. So far I don't see a need to change it. I run indoors on very hard packed dirt. Not quite clay or blue grove.

By looking at the out drive, the slot is too deep there not a lot of metal there to hold under the stress of power or the drive shaft is too deep in the out drive under compression and the drive shaft wedged in the out drive and broke it. I would grind off or machine off some off the outdrive. Or take all the axle shim out of the inside of the hubs to move the drive shaft out closer to the end.
Do u have a pic of the buggy put together , close up of the out drives.

Foam tape is evil.
Diff starting point should be 1/16 out in the front and 1/8 in the back.
Tons of pics of clean wire jobs in here to follow. Search early Rigor posts or in the first few months of the release.
Good to seal the carbon with a q-tip... like you said, Google.
Great info on slipper setting and diff build / settings, cool tool and general good 44.2 info videos in the first post of this thread. Grab a bucket of popcorn and enjoy :D

Selling a complete gear diff package....

http://www.rctech.net/forum/r-c-item...ear-diffs.html

Mine ;)

That was fast!!!!!!!if carl is from st louis, him and his brother are darn good guys.

Yeah, I plan to redo my wiring. I was trying to not have the wires on the drive shafts nor rubbing against CF. Is the tightening of the front diff because it helps durability? or tuning? The saddle is only a 4500, but we only run 6 minutes races here, so I imagine thats plenty for a 8.5 motor. Speaking of which, I am geared 19t with the stock spur. That sound right?

No issues with wires rubbing. Been a year on my wires and no issues... speaking of which, time to freshen up my wires.
Run the wires forward so its easier to pull or adjust the slipper.
http://www.rctech.net/forum/11886147-post3292.html

Diff just seems to want to be that tight to be right. Make a cool tool for easy adjustments.

I run a 19t / stock spur with a 6.5 so you will want a little bigger pinion.

the guy I bought it from had a 16 on it, lol. But, ok. I tell you, I hate these cams for setting the mesh. Also, when you guys "blow" the diff. So both the pinion and diff gear go? I was thinking of picking up spares because it seems like this may happen.

They must have been running a 2.5t motor or something :weird::confused::lol:

Setting mesh isn't bad after you've don't it a couple times. The cam holds position really well so set screw backed out. Position cam with the two screws snug, adjust and tighten up. Too tight or loose? Back the two screws out just enough to move the cam, rotate can and tighten back up. Repeat till right. Tighten up set screw once your happy with it.
It only take me one or two stabs at it now.

I haven't had a dnf with those gears, I replaced mine about a month or so ago as they were getting a little noisy but no teeth were missing or butchered.

I chamfered the edges on the CF and don't have any wire issues.

A 4500 pack is plenty big, even for 8min races.

Mesh adjustment is cake. Loosen the 2 screws 2-3 turns, and rotate the can. Set the mesh just a hair wider than you normally would, then crank the mount back down. I find that the mesh always ends up a little tighter than I like, so I compensate for that.

Whenever you have a diff go, replace both gears. I also replace them before a big race just to be on the safe side. I also shim them tight. Any movement = death. Be sure to re-check/re-shim after you put a pack or 2 on a new set.

I go gear diffs so I don't worry as much about gears. It isn't for everyone though.

that I ended up doing the same thing with the mesh. Set it kinda loose and when I tightened the mount, it would be good. Its like gear mesh with Kentucky Windage. lol

Wildcat just as a reference for you... I run an 8.5 with timing at 22.5%. Pretty small indoor track medium bite with a good size triple in the middle. I'm running a 22t pinion and I need every bit of it for the triple. And I only come off around 108 every time

ok, I will gear up. Seems like most run 21-22 for most tracks. I am currently browning setup sheets. I am not looking to dump $100 "upgrades" into the car, but it seems like there are a few things most people do. FT ballast, LP JC wing mounts, JC tower bulkheads and the rack. I know the rack removes slop, but I will pass for now. The JC wing mounts are to lower the wing, right? The bulkheads/tower mounts. Are they durability or weight? both? The FT ballast is a pretty easyish upgrade. But is anything else required? I have some 1.4x3 pistons laying around. are they any good for outdoor small to medium,bumpy tracks? I see that most people go green rear springs and hartson even went black for worlds. So it looks like, I want to soften up the rear of the car. What about weight besides the ballast?