The A-arm is the weak link but I can change one with the front tire on the kit. If anything on the front is going to give I want it to be the arm. Cheap and easy to fix.... Never have broke a shaft yet.

Thanks guys :-)

Thanks that's how I gave become changing my arms too

Hey is anyone else using a viper esc in their B44.2? I have everything coming in this weekend and was wondering what settings I should use on my Viper VTX10R-BE. Tt will power a Redline Gen 2 6.5t starting off with a 18 tooth pinion. The track I drive is packed clay and high bite, OCRC and WCRC if you're in socal. Any help appreciated,thank you!!!

I bought an old b44 and I swear it took some hits before I broke both front arms but the replacement arms you buy now seem to be made out of glass. I broke 2 last night from mediocre hits.

I don't run that ESC but for the most part they all have the same adjustments.
No drag brake but that's preference, you may like drag.
Add some dynamic braking or whatever it is on your ESC for low turn motors with timing.
I like my timing to come in later like about 10k rpm (once I'm straightened out) if you can dictate that on your ESC. Add timing according to temps.

Difference between WCRC and OCRC setup is expo or curve to soften up the bottom end. I run a hair of curve in the ESC at WC and more at OC with less bite in the dirt. That's all preferance, but it helps a lot at OC and I prefer my expo on the ESC compared to the radio. Feels like it is more effective and better controlled.

Thank you for the advice that really helps out a lot. The esc does have dynamic break so that will be easy to adjust. Have you noticed if the ballast weight is worth getting for these tracks? I'm still only on page 132 of this forum so sorry if it has already been mentioned.

If you are a good driver, the arms will not break. With little driving expirience, I purchased one, yes I broke front A-Arms usually once a race day, but after several months of practice, I was not breaking arms anymore. My arms would deteriorate before they broke.

I agree! after about 5-6 packs I notice the arms start sagging in the rear, now it seems like it costs me 20$ for track time and now 5.99$ for a set of arms :(

Hi
 

I just installed a new LRP FWT and Tekin RL Gen2 6.5, any gearing ideas?

PS running no boost factory motor timing, 6000mah 80c trakpower batteries(not pictured) my track conditions are indoor clay, high traction,

I run 18/81 in mine with a 6.5 with the same track conditions. Try it and keep and eye on your temps.

Great, thanks!

B44 arms are very strong just that 4W has no rake on the front end like a 2w so hits are direct & more severe to the arm .


Not to mention 4w goes way faster then any 2w so crash's are less forgiving just for that fact alone ...


B44 are arms easy to replace & inexpensive , bout the only part on the car that breaks usually ...


welcome to 4w ...;)

I would rather have a arm break occatinoly than destroy the bottom of a diff case xause the arms are too strong.

Gearing with a 6.5 I am at 19/81 reedy sonic mach 2 20 degrees of timming.

Don't be fooled by the crappy pathetic ae arms. Its NOT a wheeler thing at all folks. I had a 44.2 but got sick and tired of breaking arms and going through ring and pinions. I switched to a schumacher k1 and have not broken an arm and I have had some major pipe smacking that would have destroyed my ae car.