Cogging help
I got an unused crt.5 truggy with a mamba monster max pro and a tekin sc4x 4.5t. The motor worked well the first day but the next day had really bad cogging issues with the motor reaching high temps fairly quickly. I've also tried running to motor without the pinion and there was evidence of cogging.
The motor and esc had a bad connection that would disconnect after a few bumps on the road so I resoldered and cleaned the esc connections with no success on fixing the issue. ______________ Here is the part I need help on. I do not have a sensor wire and cannot test the other setting. I also do not have a castle link to try to put more punch during startup. I've read of an underpowered battery solving the issue but i tried a 3s 5000mah with no success. My pinion gear is at 20 at spur gear at 46. _______________ Is the motor or esc bad? Should I spend the extra $30 to buy a castle link and sensor cable to fix the problem? Is there any other suggestions on making it work? Thanks in advance! |
make sure the a b and c wires to the motor are in the right order.
|
a,b, and c are in the correct orders.
I even tried swapping a and c but had no luck. |
Sensor cable / sensor board / or sensor port could be an issue. Got somebody that you can borrow an esc from or a spare cable... time ro start getting rhings ruled out by elimination.
|
if you don't have a sensor wire it will cog, if i were you i would go and buy a sensor cable and put it on and go from there
|
make sure the motor wires are properly connected, if they are loose it will cog, happend to mee
|
All motor wires are now properly secured. I had a problem yesterday where they were severely loose and would disconnect mid-run. I removed, cleaned, and resoldered all of the connectors with flux. I think the cogging began after a connection was loose and eventually fell out.
|
Well, sensor wires are cheap and go bad fairly often, but if you problem started after your connections went bad Chances are you may not have gotten good solder joints your second time around.
|
I thought it was the solder at first, so I re-soldered but it kept acting up and coming undone.
I then removed ALL of the solder using wick, roughed up the surface with sand paper, applied flux, then soldered the joints. Do you think some solder is touching one of the other connects as well? |
Originally Posted by Wyumez
(Post 11220084)
I thought it was the solder at first, so I re-soldered but it kept acting up and coming undone.
I then removed ALL of the solder using wick, roughed up the surface with sand paper, applied flux, then soldered the joints. Do you think some solder is touching one of the other connects as well? |
Hrmmm... Looks like "A" keeps getting undone even with the flux. Do you have any tips on having a strong joint?
|
sounds like segment "A" might be shorted/burnt. if thats the case the solder joint is the fuse/weak link, how does the motor smell? esc? magic smoke?
|
My brother who was running and testing the truck said it became undone after a jump. The motor gets fairly hot. The cogging is significantly reduced when I first start the car. After awhile, it begins cogging more and more and eventually becomes undone.
He said the solder came undone and possibly rubbed against B to cause it to smoke a little. He shut it off right after. |
When there's magic smoke, it's done... even a little.
You are using 2 cell with that high kv motor right? The 3 cell was just tried for a moment and then not used again? That motor is a 2 cell max limit. |
Well that's not the news I wanted to hear.. and I hate my brother for still running the car with its cogging issues. I think it was 3s he was running when he saw the smoke.
Oh well. Payday is friday :) Thanks guys |
All times are GMT -7. It is currently 09:56 AM. |
Powered By: vBulletin v3.9.3.8
Copyright © 2024 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.