Mopar

If your shocks don't rebound at the same rate with same amount of oil it's probably because the shock with less rebound is sticking more than the other. Make sure that the o-rings are completely saturated. And that should fix the rebound issue.

tc5 man

I may of worked for you but i coat my O-Rings in green slime a equal amount it still never really gets the same rebound lol. If you want equal rebound right away full rebound or a little less is the easyest i found out less of a pain also.

tc5 man

My RC8T big bores dont have a bleeder screws but still gets oil steeping there the cap hole. I think i got air lock maybe once green slime seemed to reduce it and air bubbles also. What causes air lock is if something is not smooth inside of the shock or not pulling the shaft down all the way each time when getting the air out.

1wrecker

iTrader: (2)

mabe on a newly rebuilt shock that may be true, my rebound isues i have is even when I make a fluid change even with the same weight.

tc5 man

Where does the small O-Ring or washer go ?

F1Yankee

this how i do my shocks (22 with bleeder caps, low-friction o-rings) - they come out great and super consistent:

1. clean everything!
2. generous amounts of green grease (silicone) on the rings and spacers - do not get any inside the shock body. tighten the end cap fully. some run the end cap loose to free up the rings, i didn't like it and found it unnecessary.
3. pull the shock shaft to the bottom, fill 1/2 way with oil, then push the shock shaft up to draw the oil under the piston. sucking air is ok at this point.
4. after 1 minute, pull the shaft down fully again. the piston and beneath are now totally purged of air.
5. top off the shock body and put the top cap on without the bleeder screw.
6. wait 5-10 minutes
7. i have a squeeze bottle with a needle tip loaded with shock oil. i also get my bleeder screw and driver ready to go. i top off with the needle in the bleeder, then push the shaft up fully in 1 smooth motion. while the pressure wave is still puking oil i grab the driver and put the screw in as quickly as i can.

pump it a few times and the rebound will be 3-4 mm and that losi shock matching tool (shock comparator, and not very good imho) shows equal damping every time. they hold performance for several track days. i was initially concerned with over-filling the shock body, but i haven't run into any problems yet. the bleeder + needle is way more effective than either alone, but obviously the bleeder is the most important bit - i'll never go back!

F1Yankee

under the head of the screw. just guessing here, but maybe teflon tape on the threads could help? maybe not if the aluminium is stripped out

tc5 man

Oh yea i do have Teflon tape that should work so i dont need to tighten the shock cap so much by hand to stop it . Na the Alum treads are fine on it .

I do coat my shock bladder will shock oil when seating into the cap.

1wrecker

iTrader: (2)

i dont think teflon would work on such a small screw