So i got a good deal on a XXX-SCT
#1

I know there is a thread on this truck, but you cant get the feedback you need over 100 pages. Guy wanted 275 for the truck, went out to show me the truck and busted a shock cap, come apart. Ended up coming down to 200 and he had 475 in it.
Anyway, what kind of hop ups and such should i look for, i am brand new to this. What things should i do to the truck between races, maintence wise after the race? would the losi tuning kit be useful? should i convert the diff to a CR ball diff? I bought a losi 17-in-1 tool kit to start with and took a few of my dads tools, anything i should look into getting?
Again, sorry for all this, need some good info from you experienced players. Thanks!
-Samples
Anyway, what kind of hop ups and such should i look for, i am brand new to this. What things should i do to the truck between races, maintence wise after the race? would the losi tuning kit be useful? should i convert the diff to a CR ball diff? I bought a losi 17-in-1 tool kit to start with and took a few of my dads tools, anything i should look into getting?
Again, sorry for all this, need some good info from you experienced players. Thanks!
-Samples
#2

$200? What all did you get for $200? It isn't box stock is it?
If you're going to race you want the TLR kit which includes the ball diff. You want the graphite shock towers and front kick plate/bulkhead. I would advise picking up the alloy 3* rear pivot from wither STRC or Losi.
Did you get a bunch of wheels and tires? If not and if it hasn't already been converted consider the hex conversion (ProLine) for the front and the rear alloy hexes that give the proper offset when using the SCTE wheels.
All this stuff is covered in the XXX-SCT thread.
Also you could think about switching to the XXX-SCB chassis...I just made the switch myself.
If you're going to race you want the TLR kit which includes the ball diff. You want the graphite shock towers and front kick plate/bulkhead. I would advise picking up the alloy 3* rear pivot from wither STRC or Losi.
Did you get a bunch of wheels and tires? If not and if it hasn't already been converted consider the hex conversion (ProLine) for the front and the rear alloy hexes that give the proper offset when using the SCTE wheels.
All this stuff is covered in the XXX-SCT thread.
Also you could think about switching to the XXX-SCB chassis...I just made the switch myself.
#3

My local hobby shop has it new in a box for $119 as a ARR roller and $199 as a RTR minus the battery...
For 200 used I would hope that you got more than just the basics, and with all but the most OCD people you will need to replace at least a half dozen broken or worn out parts when you start to look it over.
For 200 used I would hope that you got more than just the basics, and with all but the most OCD people you will need to replace at least a half dozen broken or worn out parts when you start to look it over.
#4

After buying my 22SCT I traded my XXX SCT fully clapped out with TLR and SCB and all the goodies for a Havok Pro. These trucks are lemons. I couldn't get rid of mine fast enough.
#6

Because you can make lemonade, but after you spend the time money and effort to get it to put down power, turn and jump the way you want it - you could have just bought an SC10 and been winning.
#7

They are not lemons. I have one with the tuning kit and a 13.5 boosted setup on it and it does everything great. I just started racing 2wd sc and usually can place in the top half of about 20 entries, agianst sc10's and, and we have some fast drivers at our track. I would take it over an associated any day of the week. Never broken anything on it either!
#8

The truck is only about 1 month old. only 2 races on it. Yes i got more than stock. He had megabite tires on the back and hole shots on the front. The original motor burnt up so he put a hpi 15t brushed in it. Stock esc, and the steering servo is upgraded. Got 1 20c 5,000 mAh battery and charger. Said he had about 475 in it, i got friends who race and said it was a good deal so i took it.
With the SCB chassis it wouldn't be ROAR legal would it?
Looking to get a 17.5 brushless soon after i learn to drive a bit better.
With the SCB chassis it wouldn't be ROAR legal would it?
Looking to get a 17.5 brushless soon after i learn to drive a bit better.
#9

It sure is ROAR legal with the SCB chassis.
You will also need:
SCB chassis
22T shocks + springs
Lots of weight behind the battery
1/2 ounce in front of servo
TLR kit
Rear sway bars for indoors
A high C battery for 17.5 racing
You will also need:
SCB chassis
22T shocks + springs
Lots of weight behind the battery
1/2 ounce in front of servo
TLR kit
Rear sway bars for indoors
A high C battery for 17.5 racing
#10
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (54)

Although nice to have, none of this is actually needed to compete. I race a bone stock truck and compete well with it. I'm always looking for a little more so I am going to be changing a few things on mine. I have owned a Blitz, SC10, Slash and now XXX-SCT. The XXX-SCT has been the best one I have owned out of the box.
#11

Does a higher C battery really make a difference. I got a 20c that bought a 30c eco power 5000 milliamps. Was wanting to order about 1 70c protek, 100$ is alot for 1 battery though.
What do you guys do to your kit between races, like heats and mains. I cant really tell what its doing. i am just learning to drive right now. People at the track said the stock losi radio wasnt good/responsive. should i look towards another controller?
The reviews on the TLR tuning kit said the ball diff in the kit was junk. lots of others went back to stock gears or a CR ball diff with the cr tranny case.
Any advantage between gear and ball diffs?
again, sorry im new.
-Samples
What do you guys do to your kit between races, like heats and mains. I cant really tell what its doing. i am just learning to drive right now. People at the track said the stock losi radio wasnt good/responsive. should i look towards another controller?
The reviews on the TLR tuning kit said the ball diff in the kit was junk. lots of others went back to stock gears or a CR ball diff with the cr tranny case.
Any advantage between gear and ball diffs?
again, sorry im new.
-Samples
#12

http://www.hobbypartz.com/gensaceroar50c.html I run these batteries...nice and cheap and they perform well. I would never spend $100 on a battery.
Get the TLR kit.
Get the TLR kit.
#13
#14
