Who use Radio for ESC Tweaking
 

Hello rctech'ers,

Did a search but did not find much info around this topic. Other than the drag brake, should the braking EPA be adjusted on the radio for convenience? Keep in mind, this is ESC/Motor braking.

Who here uses EXP throttle and brake curves? If so, how much?

What's the recommended way to start adjusting brakes? On my track the brakes are locking up too easy on both my SC10 4x4 and my Ve8. I feel like I'm being pretty gentle on the trigger. Should I start easing up on the brakes using EPA first or EXP first? Should I mess with the braking on the ESC, or just keep the ESC at 100% brake and adjust only on the radio. Keeping it on the radio makes much more sense as long as there are no compromises. I understand that EXP will affect your throttle curve too, where with EPA adjusting allows you to can keep it linear. I know its a personal preference, but I'm just wondering what most do.

Thanks for any info!

smanders

I do all ESC tweaking via the radio. More or less brakes? Adjust the EPA. Need to soften up the throttle a bit? Dial in some expo. I set everything at linear and max in the ESC then tune on the stand.

I only adjust the Expo and the brake settings on the radio for the ESC. I never tried the brake curves on the radio im thinking thats the brake expo ? But yea on the brakes depending on what your driving i would use 50% to 60% brake so all four wheels do not lock up.

Do you run a castle ESC/Motor ? If so using negative expo seems to really help make it smoother if you have to much lets say a shot gun type of torque.

I have a MMP with a 3800kV on the SC10 4x4 and an RX8 with a 2050kV. My biggest issue is on my SC10 4x4 is how squirrelly it gets under heavy braking after a high speed section.

I don't want to go down a path that is going to be a frustration. I really don't have any "on-throttle" issues. I don't seem to have any issues staying smooth on the throttle and managing my exits and jumps. I have already dialed back my braking a little bit on the ESC, but I need more. I guess I'll keep things linear for now and just keep dialing it back.

I Set the dual rate on the throttle to about half before I let any inexperienced RCer (such as non-RCing friends, or siblings) touch the controller

Well the SC10 4X4 from what ive heard is quite a squirrelly truck reguardless. Yea i would keep linear intill you get used to that truck.

Since your running a Castle the 3800kv is a torquey motor so the first thing i would do is back down on the expo on the radio like i said it really helps on the castles .

So let me make sure I understand this correctly. Dual Rate is a quick way to bring down the End Point Adjustment correct? My 4PKS manual only mentions a steering Dual Rate knob. I don't see one for the throttle. The only way I can see this for the throttle is through the EPA adjustment for throttle. Is that correct?

Dual rate is the EPA for both ends. so when you turn it down you turn down the braking power, AND the throttle power. It's mainly used for steering though.

With any Futaba radio you should set your brake EPA to 100% and use the ATL button below your thumb to adjust brake power on the fly, even while driving without having to stop your car and scroll through the menus. I change mine all the time depending on how much grip the track has at any given moment.

reason #130,500,300 why Futaba is better!

how does this help ? im not hijacking just curious.

Ah..yes, page 120 of the 4PKS manual. I was working my way there. This is exactly what I am looking for. This is great. This will give me the ability to adjust the EPA on the fly essentially for braking. Now I'm glad I have a 4PKS ;)

He is really describing the throttle behavior here. Negative Expo will create a curved throttle response where the initial movement will not deliver as much torque to the wheels. Same goes for braking. But the End Points will not change. The rate will increase as the trigger travels further to make up the lost power so that the End Point arrives at the same power level as a straight linear setting.

By the way this is for when your rear end is getting squirrelly/loose/oversteers/"rear-end comes around" when exiting turns and rolling back onto the throttle. If you make your finger smoother...or setup some negative expo on the throttle.

Does this help any?

Yup the negative expo helps on dry tracks the most especially Castle because its not Sensored and it help with wheelspin and your tires will thank you can have a smooth trigger finger. But Negative expo helps more in that issue to me.

Yes it will correct the oversteer because the throttle position is more linear. I have my at -3 to -4% at most on the expo but if traction is better i may go down to -1 or just go at 0% . Oh yea with jumping it can help also because you dont get that rubber band powerband all the sudden that Sensoreless gives you.

What you described is exactly what Expo does.

Another great Futaba feature is the "throttle speed". Acts like a current limiter or smooth trigger finger.

I run the brake EPA very low on my radio to where it barely skids if I go full brake. Really calms things down and skidding is slow. I've had people drive my truck and be like what the hell? You have no brakes... till they put a few laps in and then they lower their brake EPA :D

It's a quick adjustment on your radio and you can go back to 100 if you don't like it. Go way down to where it just barely skids in a straight line, like abs. Add increments of 10 to where you like it from there.

Or like nv529 said, easy adjustment on the fly with the ATL from 100 down to whatever you want.