FOUND MY ANSWER.
 

not sure if this was a rookie zone question or not, im just not good going indepth with electrical. im putting a tekin RS pro in my SC10 and i intend to run 3 classes. the MOD -6.5 and super stock -13.5 are tekin motors and stock 17.5 is a trinity. i do not intend to run any boost off the ESC. i bought a bunch of bullet connectors to make the swaps between races quick and easy. then i remembered that the wiring for the motors come with the ESC not the motor.

what wires should i solder onto the motors? i have some extra ESC's with wire on them still. but is the ABC wiring diagram and colored wire (red + black - and white ? ) just to make sure that A motor goes to A ESC and so on? i have extra deans wet noodle 12 gauge, could i use all red + wire or all black - wire for the motors? please help/ i cant find anything on this subject anywhere!

You would likely want to get a few of these

http://www.speedpassion.net/us/produ...p=SP3P01&c=OPT

they will make swapping motors pretty painless:nod:

noooooo
 

this is not what im looking for. nor do i want to BUY more ESC's like one person PM'd me about tryin to sell me stuff..

i have bullet connectors.. i have wire... i have 3 motors and 1 ESC.

what wires should i solder to the motors? do they have to all be + or all be - or alternate A- B+ C- vise versa? do i have to order extra TEKIN wire?

Just wire A to A, B to B, C to C. That easy. Keep the iron hot during the race and just unsolder from one motor to another. Pretty easy

AABBCC
 

all that heat, i dont want to deal with it. hot motor, hot wires, hot iron, hot solder. rushing between heats might burn something...

Do it the hard way then

found my answer
 

im good now. thanks though. going to do it the way i want to. the easy way.

Personally, I'd plan on budgeting for more equipment ASAP :) Doing that much swapping each night, something is bound to go wrong sooner or later. Also, with one chassis, one ESC, if something breaks, you're out of all classes. But, I understand...it takes time and money to get going initially.

You don't "have" to run blue, yellow and orange wires. In many of my cars/trucks, I've ran all black wire just for aesthetic reasons. But, those wires were installed while at my work bench with no time pressures and are hard soldered. Between races and with having to take out one motor, install a new one, set mesh properly and then connect the wires, things could get pretty hectic. Usually, when I am rushing something (especially something electrical), things often turn out bad in a very bad way.

If you do this, I'd at least suggest that you do something so that it becomes fool proof when plugging in wires...colored wires, different connector types, wire lengths, etc. Also, check your solder joints often. Tugging on wires repeatedly will begin to weaken solder joints.

put female 4mm castle bullets on the esc wires put any color wires on the motors and put 4mm male castle bullets on those. so when u want to switch motors just unplug motor wires and sensor just make sure you plug a to a and b to b. i used to do the same thing in my kyosho scr i would switch between a 13.5 and an 8.5 just keep a pinion on each motor you will have the swap done in 5 minutes tops

Just run whatever your stock class setup is in the mod class.

2 classes, no swapping.

Your idea to swap motors has failed before it even started. There won't be any time, and you'll just cause excess wear on components by constantly swapping everything.

Do not swap anything except maybe battery packs and personal transponders between classes. Run less rather if you cannot afford it now. Learned it the hard way when the race director is yelling your name to show upto the next heat round or marshal the next race when you make bad connections and mistakes.

Solder 3 inch leads with bullets to each motor. If you make a mistake and do not connect the wires correctly the motor will rotate backwords or not move if the motor is sensored just swap your wires and go racing good luck