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Old 03-25-2005, 02:20 PM   #46
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Funny you should say that I was actually thinking of doing that.
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Old 03-25-2005, 02:24 PM   #47
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We have both in stock
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Old 03-25-2005, 02:29 PM   #48
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I was reading in the latest Extreme R/C "Ask the Professor" last few pages, that the comm. wears more in a 10T motor than a 12T motor.

With the Cobalt and the new XXX brushes how often do I turn the comm.? Yes I do have a lathe
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Old 03-25-2005, 02:36 PM   #49
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You will get 15+ runs in offroad. You get more comm wear in onroad where you draw more Amps and create more heat. I ran my old Top motor (before the V2's) for about 10 runs easily using the Sprint Brushes in it.
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Old 03-25-2005, 09:33 PM   #50
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A few weekends ago, a buddy of mine was using the cobalt 10T in his on-road car and he didnt have to cut the comm the whole weekend. He did have some problems with one of the motors near the end of the race the power would slowly slow down his car. But that could have been the spektrum aswell. I guess there having some problems with the new gaget.

Also, nwilcox, i run a 10X2 in my T4 and if you can handle the power go for it, but you might not always want to use it. for example if it is super slippery, or if its a tight track.
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Old 03-26-2005, 06:12 AM   #51
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Quote:
Also, nwilcox, i run a 10X2 in my T4 and if you can handle the power go for it, but you might not always want to use it. for example if it is super slippery, or if its a tight track.
The track surface is loose, the surface is called "Diamond Dust" it is the same stuff used on a highschool basball field.

One thing about this surface you can sweep the track but after one or two heats the track becomes loose again.

Look at it like a NASCAR track, two grooves but get up too high and you will get into the marbles.

the dirt, there is a link to the track pictures in first link.
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Old 03-26-2005, 10:50 AM   #52
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Well....that's why Cliff Lett gave you a slipper clutch and god have you a throttle finger. Use them both to your advantage and keep it tight and dialed!
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Old 03-30-2005, 03:52 PM   #53
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Smile Brushless vs Brushed

I was reading most of the posts here on the topic of running a brushed motor vs a brushless in racing conditions. Depending on what your brushless competitors have done, on a tight track you should be able to beat them if you have the car set up right. On medium to high speed track it might be a different story. The Novak 5800 Brushless system is about equal to a 12 turn, but brushless systems lack motor braking capabilities. This is a nice advantage to brushed motors. I run a brushless in a XXX-BK2, and a Tamiya EVO4. I race the BK2 in Novice Buggy at SoCal, and the differences there are pretty apparent. Novak is developing a ESC to add a motor break feature from what I have been told. I would say that a good 19T motor would compete pretty effectively against a Novak 5800. Just stay consistant in the turns, and don't worry about the straights.
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Old 03-30-2005, 04:34 PM   #54
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The biggest reason for me not liking Brushless motors is simply that you loose the tuning ablilty. That takes a huge amount of fun out of wrenching.
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Old 03-30-2005, 07:56 PM   #55
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Does anybody know of any place that sells the LRP phase 5 motors and ships internationally to Australia thanks heaps.

Thanks,
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Old 03-30-2005, 08:07 PM   #56
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I run Losi vehicles with the New Cobaolt motors, I use a 12X2 in buggy and a 11X2 in turck, both plenty fast enough for any sized track. I would start with stock spurs on your AE vehicles and a 20 or 21 pinion in buggy and a 19 or 20 pinion on truck. Keep the timing around 15 degrees or so. You should get roughly 10-15 runs before cutting, no need to change the brush for they last till they are no more.
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Old 03-31-2005, 04:37 AM   #57
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ADZY, Hobbies Australia are Australia's LRP agents
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Old 03-31-2005, 01:44 PM   #58
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Ok sweet thanks heaps,

Thanks,
Adam
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Old 05-02-2005, 08:31 PM   #59
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I followed the advice and got the Trinity Cobalts, I ran my first modified race this past weekend. I raced a 10x2 in my T4, it took me my three qualifiers to get the hang of it but I managed to have a good showing in the Main. I do not think there was a area on the track that the Brushless had a distintive advantage. I was able to catch a brushless without any problems on the stretch as well so the combination of speed and acceleration was excellent.

I had a couple of issues though, the truck felt very "lite" on the back stretch. It felt like it was drifting and a couple times I thought I was gonna loose it. And the truck felt a little twitchy coming out of slower corners. I did loosen the slipper after each qualifier and it was getting a lot better. I am thinking of backing it off a little more as well.
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Old 05-03-2005, 12:31 PM   #60
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I find that when the track is farther away from you, and large, sometimes judging speed to come onto a straight can be hard, especially when it is the farthest point away. You can try and dial out some turning on your radio so you don't affect the way the car jumps. You won't be tempted to oversteer and won't come loose as much. This may actually solve your second problem too, trucks tend to be very twitchy is turning is not dialed out, I know with my truck anything over 115% EPA steering its very very twitchy.

Tol- You said 15-20 runs without cutting, a non-sponsored guy at my track bought 2 cobalts and said even with a 14 you have to cut it every 3 runs. I tried his car in practice with a fresh cut and then with 5 runs on the motor and I can't beleive how much a difference it was, it went from balisticly fast to uber slow. Since his opinion is not biased since hes not sponsored I can tell that he is right. But all the Trinity sponsored guys i talk to say they get 15-20 runs, which as you can see, is not true. Just would like to know your opinion on this as I'm thinking of buying those motors from him since he doesn't like cutting them, me personally like doing motors.
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