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Old 03-03-2005, 05:56 PM   #1
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Default what batteries to get?

I'm going to buy a B4 and I was wondering what kind of batteries I should get.

I'm just a novice, but is it true that even the fusion batteries last for only 4-5 minutes!? I mean, even my old Tamiya car had 15 minutes of run time.

I'm just a beginner, will 1700mAh Ni-CD or ni-mh 3300 mAh batteries be good for my B4? How many minutes will they last on my buggy?
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Old 03-03-2005, 07:02 PM   #2
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ye sound like you want good run time, so if you dont want to spend bid bux but still want good batteries i would recomend intellect 3300 or 3600. you can get em from www.rcstation.com for around $19 US for the 3300's and about $23 for 3600's. they come loose so you will have to have them assembled by someone, or if you are ok with a soldering iron you can do it yourself. you can also purchase pre made stick packs whick are good for bashing around, but not really race quality. these cells are not "matched" but as a begginer you probably wont benifet from matched packs anyway.

hope this helps.
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Old 03-03-2005, 07:26 PM   #3
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are the 3300 ni-mh? or ni-cd? I heard that ni-cd has better discharge rate and therefore more power, while ni-mh have more capacity but makes the car run slow. Is that true?
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Old 03-03-2005, 07:54 PM   #4
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anything 3000 and above is NIMH. check out www.sourceracing.com for the best packs you can buy. the have TONS of punch and a HUGE amount of runtime. last weekend, i tqed by over 2 laps in stock, used the same battery for two 5 minute races, and STILL had runtime in it. give 'em a try, you wont be dissapointed
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Old 03-03-2005, 08:15 PM   #5
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is it true that ni-mh is weaker in terms of power than ni-cd?
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Old 03-04-2005, 06:46 AM   #6
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........

Last edited by cr250; 10-19-2013 at 03:01 PM.
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Old 03-04-2005, 03:32 PM   #7
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I don't understand how the ones that don't come in packs work
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Old 03-04-2005, 04:10 PM   #8
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No offense, but you obviously are a noob somewhat ... hopefully I can answer some of your questions. When you say your Tamiya had 15 minutes of run time, I'm sure that's true. With any battery pack the amount of run time is totally dependant on HOW you drive it.

When you say a Fusion pack gets 4 or 5 minutes of runtime, that's just a rating that racers can look at to know what they're buying. That's the amount of seconds it can last at a constant 30 Amp discharge rate. NO bashing (just messing around driving the yard) will pull a constant 30 amps, so real life for bashing use you'll get a lot more run time than what it's rated for.

That said, you'll be happy really with just about any of todays matched 3300 packs. Dont' worry about the expensive racer packs with high voltages and low internal resistance. Just get a good pack from a reputable name and you'll be happy. Get a couple packs, use them, and keep learning. Then after you've learned more, the packs will be ready for replacing and you'll know enough to read the ratings on the batteries and choose according to your usage.
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Old 03-04-2005, 04:34 PM   #9
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But you also got to remeber, with the nimh batteries you have to take a little better care of them. The nicd batteries are easy to take car of and the 2400's provide enough power for the average joe for a whole race. There a bit cheaper and will last a long time.
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Old 03-04-2005, 04:44 PM   #10
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When you say take better care of ur ni-mh, what do you mean?




Does anyone recommend a GOOD and DECENT charger?

I currently have a radioshack 1 horu charger ni-cd/ni-mh, does anyone know if it's any good?
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Old 03-05-2005, 10:16 PM   #11
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takwing- nimh batteries dont like to be stored dead. they like to have some charge in them. they also need to be cycled once a month if they aren't going to be used (ex. over the winter if not racing on road indoors)

For as chargers go, it depends on how much you wanna pay. The LRP Pulsar 2, Novak Millenium Pro, Integy chargers are some of many chargers out there. Go to www.towerhobbies.com and search for chargers and you will get many hits on different ones. The site also includes information on what each charger does. Also, get a charger that has peak detect. Peak detect protects your batteries from being over charged which constantly doing this will slowly shorten the run time of the battery as well as not have as much power.

Hope this helps you out.
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Old 03-06-2005, 05:59 PM   #12
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thanks!
does anyone know what negative delta V detect means for chargers?

And what are the essential things that I need in a GOOD r/c pack charger? Which ones do you guys recommend, the best that I can get under 60 dollars
thAnks!
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Old 03-07-2005, 07:15 AM   #13
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not sure about under sixty dollars. the MRC 959 would work well as long as you had a fan blowing cool air on the charger. That is pretty much a must for the charger unless you use it for micro packs.

I would say ebay may get you a better charger for the price range you are looking. I like the integy 16x3 pro charger ( I believe the 16x2 v2.5 pro has the same technology inside? ) for the money. works great, is AC/DC and charges your nimhs perfectly.

I would also recommend you get battery packs that are in side x side configuration if possible and a discharge tray. This will allow you to take better care of your cells than stick packs.

Next, before charging, always put the packs in the tray to equalize the voltages in each cell. Once you are done with that ( follow the tray instructions ) you can charge up.

GP3300s are great cells and last a long time. you should get a great amount of runtime from them for bashing and great power too, especially with a stock or 19 turn motor.

Promatch does great packs that you can get fully assembled with a connector too ( deans ).
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Old 03-25-2005, 09:00 AM   #14
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get heffy cells
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Old 03-26-2005, 03:51 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally posted by PiNkIsFaSt88
get heffy cells
great prices and honest numbers!
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