13Maschine

iTrader: (1)

Do the other guys run the same exact tires? What kind of surface? Indoor/outdoor? Clay?based on the tires, sounds like outdoor?

Where is the battery?

Do you have the adjustable alum rear suspension mounts? Toe In? Anti Squat?

What are your camber links setup like?

RiPPeN78

iTrader: (1)

Yes everyone at the track runs the same tires. Surface is clay/dirt outdoor, bumpy, very dusty in the corners off the main line. Track sometimes turns to blue groove, but not often. We wet the track but drys out pretty good after 3-4 heats. Gets pretty rough on big event days.
Battery is mounted in the rear. 4500 Team Orion shorty pack mounted width wise.

Rear toe in is 3 degrees, Front is 0.
Camber set at -1 Front and Rear

Yes I have the adjustable alum rear suspension mounts.
Rear toe in is: In-C AND In-C (3.0 Degree)

Front camber links:
- Outside has 1mm shim
- Inside is mounted in middle position of 3 with 2mm shim

Rear camber links:
- Outside rear hole with 2mm shim
- Inside link mounted on outside hole with 2mm shim

- Hub spacing is spaced towards the rear ( 3mm shim in front of hub )

Front Shocks
- Outside on tower, inside on lower arm
- Pink springs
- Long ball end type on shock

Rear shocks
- Upper tower 2nd hole from outside (#3 hole)
- Lower arm #2 or middle position
- Gold springs
- Long ball end type

i am very confused and don't have a clue how to measure anti-squat, or how to use the alum rear suspension holder "chart".

oPAULo

iTrader: (10)

This is way off Pillars setup. Inner hole on the arm with long ball end is giving you a ton of droop plus he's recommended much heavier front oil.
You might be too hooked up in the front end making the rear loose.

GIHOSU

iTrader: (5)

You could try in order of importance…
Front camber links 1mm in and 2 out, rear camber links 0mm inside and 2 out
Go shorter on the front shock end and move it out.
Softer springs out back will help grip, go white at least.
Switch to short wheelbase with the big shim out back.
You have the rear good with C in and the brass holder helps.
1 degree alloy rear hubs can help too.
For anti-squat try .5mm shims top and bottom on the rear holder.

The rest sounds good

RiPPeN78

iTrader: (1)

Could you please explain some more on adjusting the anti-squat? How does adding or removing shims over/under the rear holder adjust anti-squat?
I am assuming i am looking for a lot of anti-squat?

13Maschine

iTrader: (1)

@rippen: more anti squat in the rear will make the rear end stiffer. I believe your major complaint with the current setup was too much off power steering, causing the car to become almost uncontrollable right?

13Maschine

iTrader: (1)

I'd suggest grabbing the HUDY tuning book, although it's written for Xray cars, it's probably the best reference for tuning tips and adjustments. Here's a great diagram explaining anti squat though, should help understand what the shims do to adjust anti squat.

http://www.pro-touring.com/attachmen...5&d=1322684983

Chris Jarosz

Try the following for the loose track:

Front:
2x1.6s, 32.5wt, white spring
Middle on tower, outside on arm

Rear:
2x1.7s, 27.5wt, white spring
second from the inside on tower, inside on arm
B in/A pivot
1mm antisquat shim under rear block
hubs middle, arms back

jonasm48

iTrader: (22)

I was wondering if you guys can help me price my RB6 for sale. I have had it for sale on here but no substantial bites.

It's a clean car (chassis and plastics are in great shape) with aluminum: steering parts, suspension hangers, and rear hubs. It's in mid-motor setup, but I have rear-motor parts and transmission too.

I'm selling it with the following electronics with minimal time on them: Team Orion R10.1 Pro and Lightweight 17.5t motor, XP DS1015 Servo, Shorty lipo - I paid $550 for just the electronics.

It seems that there are a few RB6's for sale that haven't been selling, which is weird. I'm just looking for a guide on what a fair price would be.

Thanks!

tps3443

iTrader: (1)

I'm torn I want a Kyosho 1/10, I love the ZX6, RB6, and the SC6. Or do I get all 3 over time?

The RB6 seems to be the most popular.

There is 1/8 e buggy, and 4WD SCT, and 2WD SCT at one of my local tracks, and several nitro classes.

But no 1/10 2WD buggy, or 1/10 4WD buggy

There is another track near me for 1/10 TC onroad.

RB6 is cheaper then the SC6 and it has more upgrades, aluminum shock caps, etc etc.

I've already got a Tekno EB48.3.

tps3443

iTrader: (1)

Hey guys, Tower hobbies list a Kyosho RB6 for $399 and a Kyosho RB6 Competition for $449

Can you tell me the difference?

Also, I plan to run 2WD MOD buggy, there's a indoor carpet track 1.5 hours away. I was very happy to find this in mooresville NC

They support 2wd MOD buggy, 2wd stock blinky buggy, 2wd SCT MOD/ stock, 4X4 SCT mod, and 4WD MOD buggy, and 1/8 e buggy!

The place looks amazing!

*** I am thinking a Trinity D4 Certified, or 24K, 7.5T enough? Or hotter like a 3.5T? Or is a 10.5 or 13.5 enough?

I love me some diff bustin, wheelie ripping power! Because I can set a mild power curve, and limiter, for a nice smooth setup.

Thanks everyone!

tps3443

iTrader: (1)

Oh no... The RB6's heart has stopped beating on here. CPR! defibulator quick! Buzz! Bzzzz! We've lost the Kyosho RB6 everyone.

Time of death 04/02/16

6:59PM.

oPAULo

iTrader: (10)

Nawwww.
We're all just busy racing!

likea45

iTrader: (2)

Allegedly there's a new car, so everyone's waiting to see what's coming out. I'll believe it when I see it.

ralphee

There is a new car, but they went with the RZ6 first according to comments ive read from Kyosho sources.
Really want the RZ6, looks the bizz, but i dont yet own an RB6, so its a bit of a stinger!

lee