172LikesKyosho Ultima RB6 & RB6.6 Car Thread
12-21-2016, 08:46 AM - Wikipost
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10-30-2014, 08:02 PM
Tech Rookie
Has anyone tried messing with the toe/track width settings at all? Or did everyone follow in the footsteps of Tebo when he decided that D-in/D-in was the best? I have been doing some serious testing with my buddy Zach Rodgers, going from 2 all they way to 5 degrees of toe to get more clarification. What we have discovered is that, with the 17.8 drilled hole, the c-in/c-in (3degres of toe) was much more stable/predictable than d-in/d-in (which unpredictably stepped out on occasion). I also tried c-in/d-in testing 2.5 toe and 3.5 toe. My findings were what I expected... 3.5 toe had less rotation and more forward bite while cornering (a little push) which I would recommend on a medium/ low bite track. 2.5 had very quick rotation allowing me to run my fastest lap times on our medium/high bite track. Zach started messing around with rear droop with medium and short shock eyelets and just going from long to medium he said his car drove way better running mod... If you feel like you're waiting on your car in the corners (medium to low speed) I would definitely recommend testing toe and droop settings.
10-31-2014, 08:33 AM
i recently switched from apex2 ht w 12.5 pro ht rotor to ion v5 with the same goodies and have really liked it so far
10-31-2014, 12:36 PM
You want my base setup? Car has been pretty consistent since I have had it. I have played around a lot with setup. I haven't raced much this summer but it's still really good setup. Setup is for IRCR haven't had it out to Ogden yet.
10-31-2014, 02:33 PM
Has anyone tried messing with the toe/track width settings at all? Or did everyone follow in the footsteps of Tebo when he decided that D-in/D-in was the best? I have been doing some serious testing with my buddy Zach Rodgers, going from 2 all they way to 5 degrees of toe to get more clarification. What we have discovered is that, with the 17.8 drilled hole, the c-in/c-in (3degres of toe) was much more stable/predictable than d-in/d-in (which unpredictably stepped out on occasion). I also tried c-in/d-in testing 2.5 toe and 3.5 toe. My findings were what I expected... 3.5 toe had less rotation and more forward bite while cornering (a little push) which I would recommend on a medium/ low bite track. 2.5 had very quick rotation allowing me to run my fastest lap times on our medium/high bite track. Zach started messing around with rear droop with medium and short shock eyelets and just going from long to medium he said his car drove way better running mod... If you feel like you're waiting on your car in the corners (medium to low speed) I would definitely recommend testing toe and droop settings.
10-31-2014, 03:47 PM
Has anyone tried messing with the toe/track width settings at all? Or did everyone follow in the footsteps of Tebo when he decided that D-in/D-in was the best? I have been doing some serious testing with my buddy Zach Rodgers, going from 2 all they way to 5 degrees of toe to get more clarification. What we have discovered is that, with the 17.8 drilled hole, the c-in/c-in (3degres of toe) was much more stable/predictable than d-in/d-in (which unpredictably stepped out on occasion). I also tried c-in/d-in testing 2.5 toe and 3.5 toe. My findings were what I expected... 3.5 toe had less rotation and more forward bite while cornering (a little push) which I would recommend on a medium/ low bite track. 2.5 had very quick rotation allowing me to run my fastest lap times on our medium/high bite track. Zach started messing around with rear droop with medium and short shock eyelets and just going from long to medium he said his car drove way better running mod... If you feel like you're waiting on your car in the corners (medium to low speed) I would definitely recommend testing toe and droop settings.
I have played with rear toe and track width, more so on the rear track width. What I have seen is that a lot of racers have gone the D in D in route which does two things. Gives you the narrow pivot, but also narrows the track width at the same time. When I measured my rear blocks from D out/D out to D in/D in, I got a difference of 4mm from widest to narrowest. That gave me the impression that when just changing the adjustable inserts, while all else is left stock, the rear track width was changing. I decided in order to have the ability to play with rear toe/pivot and track width independently I needed the following:
http://www.amain.com/Kyosho-5x7mm-Al...llar-4/p374590
(these have both the two 2mm spacers and the two 1mm spacers) Need two packs to get the 4 1mm spacers to have the most track width adjustment.
http://www.amain.com/Kyosho-Wheel-Shaft-1/p151836
need two to replace the stock axle stubs. these are 2mm longer behind the pin hole for the wheel hex.
With the use of the above, I could independently adjust both the rear pivot setting and track width. I started out just using two 2mm spacers and then switched to using 4 of the 1mm spacers. That way I could keep a full rear track width and have a narrow pivot and if I needed to narrow the rear track width, I still had that as an option. Whereas most go Din/D in and have no option to adjust for track width with the stock parts or some other after market parts. After playing with a number of settings and hubs, I am currently running B in/D in (RF and RR respectfully) for a rear toe of -2 with .5 V2 hubs, for a total of 2.5 rear toe, and a full rear track width. I did have it set to -1mm of rear track width per side, but went back to the full width. Seems to be good so far. I know a few racers who run -3/-3.5 rear toe and always say they need more steering because of the push they get. Many times opting to change their drag brake settings to get steering in stead of maybe running less rear toe and letting the front end do what it should do. Just a thought or my thought on the rear track width/pivot setting.
10-31-2014, 04:53 PM
To mount the ESC/battery against the motor did you guys just cut the little piece that holds the two pillars up?
So instead of a one solid piece you have two pieces to hold the battery in.. If that makes any sense haha.
So instead of a one solid piece you have two pieces to hold the battery in.. If that makes any sense haha.
10-31-2014, 07:44 PM
im running the Zach set up with d out so its like stock rb6 on an out door track and its awesome
10-31-2014, 07:54 PM
Tech Addict
iTrader: (2)
Mount your ESC and Rx right up against the battery holder to keep it from flexing.
10-31-2014, 11:10 PM
Going to try a gear diff with 7k tomorrow
11-01-2014, 08:22 AM
11-01-2014, 08:47 AM
11-01-2014, 08:10 PM
Tech Master
iTrader: (83)
I'm switching from rear to mid motor. My rear motor was kit stock. I'm doing my monthly amain odds and ends purchase. Running on a high bite indoor clay track. What shock Springs and pistons should I buy as a tuning range?
11-01-2014, 09:06 PM
I'm installing the MIP pucks drivetrain. Do I use the brass collars between knuckle bearings?
11-01-2014, 09:27 PM
I have played with rear toe and track width, more so on the rear track width. What I have seen is that a lot of racers have gone the D in D in route which does two things. Gives you the narrow pivot, but also narrows the track width at the same time. When I measured my rear blocks from D out/D out to D in/D in, I got a difference of 4mm from widest to narrowest. That gave me the impression that when just changing the adjustable inserts, while all else is left stock, the rear track width was changing. I decided in order to have the ability to play with rear toe/pivot and track width independently I needed the following:
http://www.amain.com/Kyosho-5x7mm-Al...llar-4/p374590
(these have both the two 2mm spacers and the two 1mm spacers) Need two packs to get the 4 1mm spacers to have the most track width adjustment.
http://www.amain.com/Kyosho-Wheel-Shaft-1/p151836
need two to replace the stock axle stubs. these are 2mm longer behind the pin hole for the wheel hex.
With the use of the above, I could independently adjust both the rear pivot setting and track width. I started out just using two 2mm spacers and then switched to using 4 of the 1mm spacers. That way I could keep a full rear track width and have a narrow pivot and if I needed to narrow the rear track width, I still had that as an option. Whereas most go Din/D in and have no option to adjust for track width with the stock parts or some other after market parts. After playing with a number of settings and hubs, I am currently running B in/D in (RF and RR respectfully) for a rear toe of -2 with .5 V2 hubs, for a total of 2.5 rear toe, and a full rear track width. I did have it set to -1mm of rear track width per side, but went back to the full width. Seems to be good so far. I know a few racers who run -3/-3.5 rear toe and always say they need more steering because of the push they get. Many times opting to change their drag brake settings to get steering in stead of maybe running less rear toe and letting the front end do what it should do. Just a thought or my thought on the rear track width/pivot setting.
http://www.amain.com/Kyosho-5x7mm-Al...llar-4/p374590
(these have both the two 2mm spacers and the two 1mm spacers) Need two packs to get the 4 1mm spacers to have the most track width adjustment.
http://www.amain.com/Kyosho-Wheel-Shaft-1/p151836
need two to replace the stock axle stubs. these are 2mm longer behind the pin hole for the wheel hex.
With the use of the above, I could independently adjust both the rear pivot setting and track width. I started out just using two 2mm spacers and then switched to using 4 of the 1mm spacers. That way I could keep a full rear track width and have a narrow pivot and if I needed to narrow the rear track width, I still had that as an option. Whereas most go Din/D in and have no option to adjust for track width with the stock parts or some other after market parts. After playing with a number of settings and hubs, I am currently running B in/D in (RF and RR respectfully) for a rear toe of -2 with .5 V2 hubs, for a total of 2.5 rear toe, and a full rear track width. I did have it set to -1mm of rear track width per side, but went back to the full width. Seems to be good so far. I know a few racers who run -3/-3.5 rear toe and always say they need more steering because of the push they get. Many times opting to change their drag brake settings to get steering in stead of maybe running less rear toe and letting the front end do what it should do. Just a thought or my thought on the rear track width/pivot setting.
When you run 3 line axles it changes the binding characteristics... So you were not just changing the track width. The reason you can get away with less toe is because of those axles. Because the were creating more rear bind.
11-01-2014, 09:53 PM