Go Back  R/C Tech Forums > General Forums > Electric Off-Road
Kyosho Ultima RB6 & RB6.6 Car Thread >

Kyosho Ultima RB6 & RB6.6 Car Thread

Like Tree172Likes

Kyosho Ultima RB6 & RB6.6 Car Thread

    Hide Wikipost
Old 12-21-2016, 08:46 AM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech ForumsThread Wiki: Kyosho Ultima RB6 & RB6.6 Car Thread
Please read: This is a community-maintained wiki post containing the most important information from this thread. You may edit the Wiki once you have been a member for 90 days and have made 90 posts.
 
Last edit by: tobamiester
RB6.6 Kyosho America Product Page: http://www.kyoshoamerica.com/ULTIMA-...T_p_24505.html

RB6.6 Manual http://www.kyosho.com/jpn/support/in...A_RB6_6_IM.pdf

RB6.6 Kyosho Youtube https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vW_sR667utY

MSRP $639 MAP $399.99

-------------------------------
New RB6.6 parts (compared exploded views, prices and links are Kyosho America):

Chassis:
  1. Main chassis - UM731 - $125.99
  2. Side guards - UM732 - $9.99

Battery Holder:
  1. Battery plate - UM733 - $8.99
  2. Battery foam - UM741 - $7.99

Rear Bulkheads:
  1. MM3 and Laydown - UM740 - $9.99
    • MM3 bulkhead
    • Laydown bulkhead
    • Swaybar Holders

3 Gear Transmission (MM and RM):
  1. Transmission - UM734 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • plastic FR & RR suspension hangers

  2. Gear Cover - UM735 - $6.99

Laydown Transmission (3 and 4 gear possible):
  1. Transmission - UM736 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • required extra hardware
    • pastic FR suspension hanger

  2. 40T idler - UM737 - $6.99
  3. Motor plate - UM738 - $18.99
  4. Gear cover - UM739 - $6.99

Body:
  1. Blade body - UMB05 - $27.99

Optional Parts:
  1. Lightweigt Blade body - UMB05LW - $31.99
  2. Aluminum FR suspension hanger - UMW705B - $28.99 (may be able to file UMW705 to fit)
  3. Brass FR suspension hanger - UMW725B - $30.99 (looks more different than UMW725..someone confirm?)

Typical Upgrades for new RB6.6 Buyers

UMW701 Aluminum Steering Plate (RB6)
UMW702 Aluminum Crank Arm (RB6)
UMW704-0 V2 Aluminum Rear Hub Set(0°/RB6)
UMW705B Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RF/RB6.6) or brass UMW725B
UMW707 Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RR-Mid)

Nice to have:

UMW723 Aluminum Front Sus Block (Type B/10g/RB6/RT6/SC6).


Aftermarket Parts:

Front Wing: https://www.prolineracing.com/perfor...mount-alum-rb6

Print Wikipost

Old 01-19-2014, 07:44 AM
  #9436  
Tech Master
iTrader: (33)
 
nickdawg18's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Granite City, IL
Posts: 1,696
Trader Rating: 33 (100%+)
Default

I have the red exotek bell cranks. Love em
nickdawg18 is offline  
Old 01-19-2014, 08:07 AM
  #9437  
Tech Elite
iTrader: (47)
 
K_King's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: San Diego, CA
Posts: 4,234
Trader Rating: 47 (100%+)
Default

Get the Kyosho one, it fits better than the Exotek one which gets pretty sloppy quick for some reason.
K_King is offline  
Old 01-19-2014, 08:18 AM
  #9438  
Tech Master
iTrader: (56)
 
1967rs's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Roy Utah
Posts: 1,027
Trader Rating: 56 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by glenng
hi guys. i race (or at least trying to race) 17.5. im putting an amain order together and was contemplating the steel gear set for the gear diff. i already have the regular gear diff w 2k kyosho fluid in it and used that red kyosho gear diff seal grease and it leaks like mad still. i think i needed to put the grease in the screw holes perhaps, but havent opened the tranny back up to see, but notice a lot of fluid leaks out the cracks in the tranny case. when i had assembled the gear diff, the red grease did a great job sealing up the diff with exception of the screw holes, which had no grease sealant. anyhow, gear diff runs great despite being messy and i like the fact that it doesnt need constant re-tightening. so was thinking of upgrading to steel gears to bulletproof the thing but am having second thoughts and thinking the 70 bucks or so might better be spent on the mip pucks kit. so steel gear diff or pucks kit? or steal gear diff with mip aluminum cvd kit is another option too however concerned about aluminum cvd wear on steel outdrives. hence thinking pucks kit might be way to go although back to a ball diff. any thoughts? thanks.

glenn
I just installed the mip puck system on my 17.5 car and I am very happy with it. I also went with the carbon arms, towers and a ti screw set. I did them all at the same time so I can't say what had the greatest effect, thou I can say the car is far more nimble then it was before and I had to add weight to get to 1499.
1967rs is offline  
Old 01-19-2014, 09:08 AM
  #9439  
R/C Tech Elite Member
iTrader: (207)
 
Trevor Williams's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Illinois
Posts: 8,382
Trader Rating: 207 (100%+)
Default

Anyone have a part # for the red 1mm, 2mm bump steer washers? Thanks!
Trevor Williams is offline  
Old 01-19-2014, 09:14 AM
  #9440  
Tech Initiate
 
4WDriver's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2013
Location: Canada
Posts: 47
Default

Originally Posted by Trevor Williams
Anyone have a part # for the red 1mm, 2mm bump steer washers? Thanks!
these?

http://www.kyoshoamerica.com/Aluminu...cs_p_9931.html
http://www.kyoshoamerica.com/Aluminu...pc_p_9861.html
4WDriver is offline  
Old 01-19-2014, 09:20 AM
  #9441  
R/C Tech Elite Member
iTrader: (207)
 
Trevor Williams's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Illinois
Posts: 8,382
Trader Rating: 207 (100%+)
Default

Thank you
Trevor Williams is offline  
Old 01-19-2014, 09:59 AM
  #9442  
Tech Initiate
 
Join Date: Jun 2009
Posts: 43
Default Battery Placement

I have a battery placement question I was hoping i could get some info on. I have been runing with the esc back by the motor and the shorty right in front. I see some of you run the short all the way back with the esc up in the front. My wires on my esc are to short at the moment to try it like that.
So with the shorty all the way back does it add slight bit more traction or is it allot more. Thanks.
Watkins is offline  
Old 01-19-2014, 11:04 AM
  #9443  
Tech Master
iTrader: (56)
 
1967rs's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Roy Utah
Posts: 1,027
Trader Rating: 56 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by Watkins
I have a battery placement question I was hoping i could get some info on. I have been runing with the esc back by the motor and the shorty right in front. I see some of you run the short all the way back with the esc up in the front. My wires on my esc are to short at the moment to try it like that.
So with the shorty all the way back does it add slight bit more traction or is it allot more. Thanks.
Mid or rear motor?
1967rs is offline  
Old 01-19-2014, 11:48 AM
  #9444  
Tech Initiate
 
Join Date: Jun 2009
Posts: 43
Default

Mid.
Watkins is offline  
Old 01-19-2014, 12:05 PM
  #9445  
Tech Elite
iTrader: (133)
 
Qwkrn U's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Osage Beach, MO
Posts: 2,452
Trader Rating: 133 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by Trevor Williams
Anyone have a part # for the red 1mm, 2mm bump steer washers? Thanks!
I have a pack of red washers you can have em when I'm at the track next. I'm slowly taking all the red off my car.
Qwkrn U is offline  
Old 01-19-2014, 12:36 PM
  #9446  
R/C Tech Elite Member
iTrader: (207)
 
Trevor Williams's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Illinois
Posts: 8,382
Trader Rating: 207 (100%+)
Default

Thanks a lot Wayne!
Trevor Williams is offline  
Old 01-19-2014, 12:37 PM
  #9447  
Tech Master
iTrader: (56)
 
1967rs's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Roy Utah
Posts: 1,027
Trader Rating: 56 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by Watkins
Mid.
I had the best luck with the short battery all the way back and the esc above the battery using the battery stop and esc shelf that come with the rt6. Having the esc up higher helps put more load on the outside rear tire in a corner for more side bite.

Problem I ran into is most bodies don't have clearance for the esc. Stock and J-concepts bodies will work if the esc is not too tall, proline gen3 and phantom bodies DON'T have clearance. I have a TRF201X-XR/XM body on the way it looks like it should have a lot of clearance.

Last edited by 1967rs; 01-19-2014 at 12:44 PM. Reason: added info
1967rs is offline  
Old 01-19-2014, 08:27 PM
  #9448  
Tech Initiate
 
Join Date: Jun 2009
Posts: 43
Default

Thanks for the help

I couldnt get the esc to fit on the shelf and have clearance under the body well enough, so i just put it flat on the chassis up front by the servo with the shorty back. Looking forward to trying it out soon.
Watkins is offline  
Old 01-19-2014, 09:15 PM
  #9449  
Tech Adept
 
Join Date: May 2007
Posts: 187
Default

Hello everyone,

Please correct me if I am wrong...the wider the rear and of the car is the better can cope with bumps in the track...right?
nitroargi is offline  
Old 01-20-2014, 06:12 AM
  #9450  
Tech Elite
iTrader: (68)
 
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Valley Cottage NY
Posts: 2,035
Trader Rating: 68 (100%+)
Default

What is the purpose of the rear skid angle? I see most use .5 shim but I did see one setup that used the 1mm shim.
Speedychris22 is offline  

Thread Tools
Search this Thread

Contact Us - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Terms of Service -

Copyright © 2024 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.