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Kyosho Ultima RB6 & RB6.6 Car Thread

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Old 12-21-2016, 08:46 AM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech ForumsThread Wiki: Kyosho Ultima RB6 & RB6.6 Car Thread
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Last edit by: tobamiester
RB6.6 Kyosho America Product Page: http://www.kyoshoamerica.com/ULTIMA-...T_p_24505.html

RB6.6 Manual http://www.kyosho.com/jpn/support/in...A_RB6_6_IM.pdf

RB6.6 Kyosho Youtube https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vW_sR667utY

MSRP $639 MAP $399.99

-------------------------------
New RB6.6 parts (compared exploded views, prices and links are Kyosho America):

Chassis:
  1. Main chassis - UM731 - $125.99
  2. Side guards - UM732 - $9.99

Battery Holder:
  1. Battery plate - UM733 - $8.99
  2. Battery foam - UM741 - $7.99

Rear Bulkheads:
  1. MM3 and Laydown - UM740 - $9.99
    • MM3 bulkhead
    • Laydown bulkhead
    • Swaybar Holders

3 Gear Transmission (MM and RM):
  1. Transmission - UM734 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • plastic FR & RR suspension hangers

  2. Gear Cover - UM735 - $6.99

Laydown Transmission (3 and 4 gear possible):
  1. Transmission - UM736 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • required extra hardware
    • pastic FR suspension hanger

  2. 40T idler - UM737 - $6.99
  3. Motor plate - UM738 - $18.99
  4. Gear cover - UM739 - $6.99

Body:
  1. Blade body - UMB05 - $27.99

Optional Parts:
  1. Lightweigt Blade body - UMB05LW - $31.99
  2. Aluminum FR suspension hanger - UMW705B - $28.99 (may be able to file UMW705 to fit)
  3. Brass FR suspension hanger - UMW725B - $30.99 (looks more different than UMW725..someone confirm?)

Typical Upgrades for new RB6.6 Buyers

UMW701 Aluminum Steering Plate (RB6)
UMW702 Aluminum Crank Arm (RB6)
UMW704-0 V2 Aluminum Rear Hub Set(0°/RB6)
UMW705B Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RF/RB6.6) or brass UMW725B
UMW707 Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RR-Mid)

Nice to have:

UMW723 Aluminum Front Sus Block (Type B/10g/RB6/RT6/SC6).


Aftermarket Parts:

Front Wing: https://www.prolineracing.com/perfor...mount-alum-rb6

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Old 09-22-2013, 09:01 PM
  #8221  
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Hmmmm
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Old 09-22-2013, 09:19 PM
  #8222  
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Hmm with slots for the rear sway bar they just released. Nice!
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Old 09-22-2013, 09:29 PM
  #8223  
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I had a look at Tessmann's RB6 and the new battery layout seems interesting...I was wondering how he is keeping those saddles in place, glass tape maybe?
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Old 09-22-2013, 11:43 PM
  #8224  
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Originally Posted by RCBuddha


Hmmmm
Appears PL have come out with a specially fitted MM body. Nice

http://www.rctech.net/forum/electric...fornia-44.html
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Old 09-22-2013, 11:49 PM
  #8225  
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Default re springs

who all is running the avid shock springs and what do you think of them??
was thinking about getting them to use on my rb5 and that way I have them for the rb6 when I get it in a few months
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Old 09-22-2013, 11:55 PM
  #8226  
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Originally Posted by Kraig
Does this help?

that's exactly what I was looking for; it's low, very rear, and out of the way. Epoxy experiments here I come....
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Old 09-23-2013, 12:58 AM
  #8227  
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I have one of those bulkheads on my rb6 because I bought the swaybar kit last week. I tried a few swaybars out with the kit arms and it didn't really do much, but the flat arms mount the sway much closer and I haven't tried the sway bars with them yet.
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Old 09-23-2013, 08:17 AM
  #8228  
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I wonder if it's a centro body, the shapes are pretty similar..
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Old 09-23-2013, 01:04 PM
  #8229  
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Originally Posted by Kraig
Does this help?
Doesn't adding weight to the rear defeat the purpose of switching to MM?
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Old 09-23-2013, 01:04 PM
  #8230  
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Originally Posted by nitroargi
I had a look at Tessmann's RB6 and the new battery layout seems interesting...I was wondering how he is keeping those saddles in place, glass tape maybe?
industrial strength velcro..seems weird,daniel at proline had it on his buggy.. it is really strong!!
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Old 09-23-2013, 01:33 PM
  #8231  
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What brass weight is Tebo using?
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Old 09-23-2013, 01:56 PM
  #8232  
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hay guys is there anything I should get with my kit or just run it in its stock form.

thanks
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Old 09-23-2013, 01:56 PM
  #8233  
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Originally Posted by E73
Doesn't adding weight to the rear defeat the purpose of switching to MM?
Still much farther forward, and much lighter than a motor.
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Old 09-23-2013, 09:44 PM
  #8234  
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Originally Posted by hairymuffin
industrial strength velcro..seems weird,daniel at proline had it on his buggy.. it is really strong!!
I can tell you guys from experience that certain Velcro is amazing and can be almost permanent. I use a certain Velcro from 3m to hold on banners on tractor trailers. Use banners instead of wraps bc it's quicker and cheaper for the customer. The Velcro really holds up though, haven't had one pull off or peel up a all. Pretty amazing stuff.

Thing I noticed was pl shocks instead of kyo ones😱
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Old 09-23-2013, 10:00 PM
  #8235  
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Did some sway bar testing with the MM rb6 tonight and tebo's flat arm setup. Had to customize some endlinks, but got to test a few bars. The 1.2 felt really good -- let me drive the car harder and made it a bit more predictable. The 1.3 seemed a bit too much for our track, and didn't feel as good as no bar on our twisty slow layout. 1.2 vs none is really going to come down to lap times. You can definitely hammer down better with it, and the car feels like a good 4wd but it loses a little in terms of the ability to really tip toe through some sections. On a high traction track, the 1.2 or 1.3 is the ticket, or at least something I would try.

I had 12mm of exposed bar after each endlink, hooked on the ball in the flat arms, custom "short" ball ends shaved a bit so they would go slightly closer together to live under the camber link.

Oh, and I could run more droop with the bars, both front and rear. Rear more than front, but honestly, it felt better with less droop, but it at least worked right with the bars on, unlike being an undrivable mess.
Attached Thumbnails Kyosho Ultima RB6 & RB6.6 Car Thread-image.jpg  
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