Kyosho Ultima RB6 & RB6.6 Car Thread
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#7246
Tech Master
iTrader: (21)
Only catch is the battery strap is about 1mm too short to fit under the motor guard and hold the batteries down (the mounting posts you shaved off would have held the back portion of the battery hold down, allowing the strap to fit under it). My solution was to buy the JConcepts CF battery strap for the B4.2 and dremel off the front portion of it, then shorten the length a bit. It looks great.
I noticed on Ty Tessman's MM RB6, which he ran saddle packs with when he won the World's warm up last weekend, that he didn't seem to be using a battery strap. I'm guessing he taped them or something. Based on the pic, it didn't look like he had just removed it while in the pits.
#7247
I assume a ZX6 since there was some photos of Tebo with a 4wd buggy with an aluminum chassis.
#7248
Tech Champion
iTrader: (226)
To expand... you need to purchase the Avid top shaft for the RB6 in order to use the Triad slipper.
#7249
Tech Master
Couldn't agree less mate. RB6 is easily the best and most consistent 2wd car I've run since the Ultima Pro around 1988!
If your car felt inconsistent then it must have been setup based, hardly touch mine now venue to venue. Love this car, wish I could do it justice!
If your car felt inconsistent then it must have been setup based, hardly touch mine now venue to venue. Love this car, wish I could do it justice!
#7250
For those who have run it mid motor, why does the track have to be super tight for it to work?
I think most people in the states are afraid of mid motor. If the car is loose, there are ways to mechanically fix that besides hanging a brick in back
Just got my rb-6 and building it today
I think most people in the states are afraid of mid motor. If the car is loose, there are ways to mechanically fix that besides hanging a brick in back
Just got my rb-6 and building it today
#7251
Tech Master
Great question. I'd like to hear the responses to as well.
#7252
Tech Elite
iTrader: (43)
hhaha I still have nightmares about my mid motor cougar. The rb6 was better but still lazy for me and with regards to us style tracks, the many hairpins just dont allow you to take the lines which are fastest with a mid motor. The track has marbles there so looser there. Better to follow the RM racing line but then you cannot pin the throttle fast enough in MM.
#7253
It dosent have to be super tight. it just excels better there in those conditions compared to the rm cars because the cornering speed is that much faster. On tight tracks races are usually won on the infield.
#7254
In my opinion, mid motor cars should be better in any hard pack track condition that isn't got tons of fluf. The car should also excel in stock where you need momentum that usually inertia of a mod motor generates. The car will just flat rotate better
#7255
Tech Elite
iTrader: (43)
The factory guys on our track use the pendulum effect of rm well to rotate on a dime on the tight hairpins (most are b4.2s). Our track has crazy grip, orange bar codes with no sauce can do wheelies on the straight with a mod motor. So gaining a few on fast sweepers negates the advantage of being faster on 3 tight hairpins.
#7256
Tech Apprentice
iTrader: (3)
I've preferred mid-motor everywhere indoors so far, five different tracks and eight different layouts in the SoCal area since I got the car a couple of months ago. Some were/are pretty loose surfaces and some were very high grip. Haven't raced it outdoors yet.
I'd also add that in MM config, I prefer the kit arms to the 521-1 arms when the grip is lower. I liked the 521-1's at OCRC and West Coast. But that's just me, YMMV.
I'd also add that in MM config, I prefer the kit arms to the 521-1 arms when the grip is lower. I liked the 521-1's at OCRC and West Coast. But that's just me, YMMV.
#7257
Tech Elite
iTrader: (14)
I've preferred mid-motor everywhere indoors so far, five different tracks and eight different layouts in the SoCal area since I got the car a couple of months ago. Some were/are pretty loose surfaces and some were very high grip. Haven't raced it outdoors yet.
I'd also add that in MM config, I prefer the kit arms to the 521-1 arms when the grip is lower. I liked the 521-1's at OCRC and West Coast. But that's just me, YMMV.
I'd also add that in MM config, I prefer the kit arms to the 521-1 arms when the grip is lower. I liked the 521-1's at OCRC and West Coast. But that's just me, YMMV.
#7258
I think he is saying the kit arms generate more traction
Can some one explain how much toe in it has in rear and what the differences are in the rf blocks?
Can some one explain how much toe in it has in rear and what the differences are in the rf blocks?