Cpt.America

iTrader: (52)

Lookin good! And you're very welcome

This is your new bible:

http://users.telenet.be/elvo/

Cpt.America

iTrader: (52)

You either have a glaring setup issue, a static weight issue, or a tire/insert issue. Without looking at your car, tires and inserts, its impossible to tell. Post your complete setup, and make sure everything is true, even, measured, and accurate based on the setup sheet first. Then trade tire with another rb6 on the track to make sure you don't have a tire problem.

t8rtot

iTrader: (14)

When the weight transfers to the rear?

There are a few ways to fix this, it could come down to putting closed cell foams up front. This really tamed down the car for me.

Or making changes to your setup.

Give us more info, then we'll be glad to help you out.

HalfManHalfGod

I've read most of that but i'm not sure how to translate that to the setup sheet. For example ackerman:

More
(Bigger difference in steering angle
between the two font wheels) More Ackermann makes the steering more consistent, and smoother.
It just feels right, also at low speeds and in tight turns.
Less
(Smaller, or no difference in steering
angle between the two font wheels) Less Ackermann makes the steering more agressive at high speeds.
The car turns in more agressively.
It doesn't work well when either traction or cornering speeds are low.

Would putting shims on the ballstuds that attach to the ackerman give me more or less ackermann?

My track I would consider small with high traction clay that has 3 180degree hairpin turns. I want to be able to make as tight as a turn as I can and carry as much speed as possible.


Another stupid question: What is the easiest way to detach the turnbuckles from the ballstuds? I know i'm doing it completely wrong.

Just1More

iTrader: (11)

The losi is similar in color and is all aluminum, no plastic inserts. I had to drill the threads to fit the Kyo ballstud(I used a body reamer and just enlarged both sides), i put a 1mm shim behind the ballstud to make it very very close to OEM Kyosho offset and a nut on the backside. I know someone will ask so i'll post a pic asap

On a side note i won the A main tonight, but broke a ballcup off in a qualifier. It broke right where the turnbuckle ends inside it.

joeymdz

iTrader: (13)

Well worth the money!!!

http://www.teamassociated.com/news/l...ts_iPhone_App_

Jtipsy

iTrader: (11)

Guys to let you know Diggity Designs has some new carbon fiber parts for the Rb6 car.
http://www.diggitydesigns.com/ is a link to his site. Great guy to deal with also.

seth556

iTrader: (43)

It's the new Tebo CRCRC setup. During the day I put on the .5 hubs and it was only a little better, still the same main tendency to want to slide mid corner. Track is indoor, decent traction, and small.

t8rtot

iTrader: (14)

There's your issue, put the kit setup on it and let us know what you think.

And definately take out the limiter and put long ball ends on the rear and med. on the front shocks.

joeymdz

iTrader: (13)

Is it exactly tebos set up? Remember that track has tons of traction and it was huge! May e you should look at a different set up.. Brandon has a great one!! (shameless plug)

teeforb

iTrader: (94)

I've been using the for a while now. Handy app

fullsyzz

iTrader: (121)

Why does the Cody Turner setup call for um510-02 axles? I understand they are a different length but what's the reasoning behind using them?

desertracerdad

iTrader: (101)

I have had the same one on my RB5 WC & RB6, with another on my RT5 without any problems...

B00t13g

iTrader: (9)

They still have the same parts posted that they've had for a good while...

Jason.Dias

Hi fullsyzz,

The reason we're using these axles is because we are using the narrow suspension arm mounts (UMW511+UMW512), using these mounts narrows the rear end of the car by about 2mm, in order to counter act that we use the longer axle (UM510-02) with a 1mm axle washer(W0149GM) between the hub and the wheel hex.

Hope that helps.

__________________
Jason Dias
Team Kyosho