Kyosho Ultima RB6 & RB6.6 Car Thread
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#4351
Tried that, but I didn't like the traction it gave up. It felt like it wouldn't lock in when I exited. Since I run stock 17.5 there us a fine line that I'm balancing on. The car is so good right now but now I want more, maybe what I'm looking for isn't obtainable.. But I have to keep searching
#4352
but you wont
#4353
From what I've read, the MR has the lower end shocks, and gear diff. I can live with the shocks, but having to mail order everything and "upgrade" to a ball diff is damn near a deal breaker. There aren't even enough people running it to get a good feel for what breaks/wears prematurely and what doesn't.
The K car needs nothing. The shocks are the cream of the crop, the turnbuckles are indestructible, the ball diff is one of the best in the business, and I have local parts support.
The K car needs nothing. The shocks are the cream of the crop, the turnbuckles are indestructible, the ball diff is one of the best in the business, and I have local parts support.
#4354
Tech Elite
iTrader: (43)
tr8tot are you running with shorty all the way forward. My style is similar to yours and found that I like shorty best with it all the way forward (base I started with epers setup on petit). I started tuning my setup from that and all thats left now is a little corner push to tune out, which can be fixed with holeshot fronts I think .
#4357
0 degree hubs = 3
.5 degree hubs = 3.5
1 degree hubs = 4
.5 degree hubs backwards = 2.5
1 degree hubs backwards = 2
#4358
That would be good to add to your new first post!!
#4359
anyone tried the MIP Super Diff for the RB6? I'm thinking about having a built up diff in the tool box ready to go ... for 40 bucks it seems like a good option
#4362
The one thing i am not sure about, is the fact that the MIP diff is imperial/standard, and not metric. What does that mean for the outdrive bearings? I assume that part of the diff is metric. Has anybody tried it yet?
#4363
Tech Regular
iTrader: (2)
Question - Do any of the pro Kyosho driver (Tebo, King), ever get on here to help answer questions from us mear mortals??
I know that pro's from other manufacturers like Durango, AE, Losi, cant do enough to help out.
Dont get me wrong, im Kyosho through & through, but to me some of the top Kyosho guys seem a little quiet.
I know that pro's from other manufacturers like Durango, AE, Losi, cant do enough to help out.
Dont get me wrong, im Kyosho through & through, but to me some of the top Kyosho guys seem a little quiet.
#4364
Question - Do any of the pro Kyosho driver (Tebo, King), ever get on here to help answer questions from us mear mortals??
I know that pro's from other manufacturers like Durango, AE, Losi, cant do enough to help out.
Dont get me wrong, im Kyosho through & through, but to me some of the top Kyosho guys seem a little quiet.
I know that pro's from other manufacturers like Durango, AE, Losi, cant do enough to help out.
Dont get me wrong, im Kyosho through & through, but to me some of the top Kyosho guys seem a little quiet.
#4365
Tech Elite
iTrader: (35)
They ARE quiet.. and it's been a topic of discussion more places than just RCtech. The only K Team driver I have seen hop on here and help out, is one of my buddies from T.R.C.R, team driver Ryan Matesa... He's not a pro (paid to drive), but even non-pro team drivers input can be pretty valuable... And Ryan is brutally fast. Iv only seen him come on a few times. Where you at, Ryan?
I am keeping my eye on the MIP stuff (have been for a year). Currently, I see no reason to move to the MIP Diff, unless the outdrives wear considerably slower. What I am waiting for, are MIP's swing shafts, in hopes they wear a lot slower than the kyosho swing shafts (the pins where they wear on the outdrives). If there is a noticeable improvement in wear, I will change diffs and axle/swingshafts to MIPs. The stock Kyosho pieces just wear too quickly.
The one thing i am not sure about, is the fact that the MIP diff is imperial/standard, and not metric. What does that mean for the outdrive bearings? I assume that part of the diff is metric. Has anybody tried it yet?
Has anybody successfully replaced the pins on the stock CVDs? I think I remember somebody saying that they were able to do it with the Hudy tool.