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Kyosho Ultima RB6 & RB6.6 Car Thread

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Old 12-21-2016, 08:46 AM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech ForumsThread Wiki: Kyosho Ultima RB6 & RB6.6 Car Thread
Please read: This is a community-maintained wiki post containing the most important information from this thread. You may edit the Wiki once you have been a member for 90 days and have made 90 posts.
 
Last edit by: tobamiester
RB6.6 Kyosho America Product Page: http://www.kyoshoamerica.com/ULTIMA-...T_p_24505.html

RB6.6 Manual http://www.kyosho.com/jpn/support/in...A_RB6_6_IM.pdf

RB6.6 Kyosho Youtube https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vW_sR667utY

MSRP $639 MAP $399.99

-------------------------------
New RB6.6 parts (compared exploded views, prices and links are Kyosho America):

Chassis:
  1. Main chassis - UM731 - $125.99
  2. Side guards - UM732 - $9.99

Battery Holder:
  1. Battery plate - UM733 - $8.99
  2. Battery foam - UM741 - $7.99

Rear Bulkheads:
  1. MM3 and Laydown - UM740 - $9.99
    • MM3 bulkhead
    • Laydown bulkhead
    • Swaybar Holders

3 Gear Transmission (MM and RM):
  1. Transmission - UM734 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • plastic FR & RR suspension hangers

  2. Gear Cover - UM735 - $6.99

Laydown Transmission (3 and 4 gear possible):
  1. Transmission - UM736 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • required extra hardware
    • pastic FR suspension hanger

  2. 40T idler - UM737 - $6.99
  3. Motor plate - UM738 - $18.99
  4. Gear cover - UM739 - $6.99

Body:
  1. Blade body - UMB05 - $27.99

Optional Parts:
  1. Lightweigt Blade body - UMB05LW - $31.99
  2. Aluminum FR suspension hanger - UMW705B - $28.99 (may be able to file UMW705 to fit)
  3. Brass FR suspension hanger - UMW725B - $30.99 (looks more different than UMW725..someone confirm?)

Typical Upgrades for new RB6.6 Buyers

UMW701 Aluminum Steering Plate (RB6)
UMW702 Aluminum Crank Arm (RB6)
UMW704-0 V2 Aluminum Rear Hub Set(0°/RB6)
UMW705B Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RF/RB6.6) or brass UMW725B
UMW707 Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RR-Mid)

Nice to have:

UMW723 Aluminum Front Sus Block (Type B/10g/RB6/RT6/SC6).


Aftermarket Parts:

Front Wing: https://www.prolineracing.com/perfor...mount-alum-rb6

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Old 11-19-2012, 08:55 PM
  #2686  
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Originally Posted by fastestwon
look at the thrust assembly
Checked the thrust assembly and it was fine. Any other ideas? Is it possible it might be a little tight and with a slow run on it, it will free up the tranny?
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Old 11-19-2012, 09:10 PM
  #2687  
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Picking mine up Friday!!!
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Old 11-19-2012, 09:19 PM
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Originally Posted by cnelson3
i'm kind of interested in the 2 hole piston idea. are you just running those in the rear or the front as well... what do they do in comparison to the 55's or k-55's?
Just on the rear. Comparing 55's w/27.5 to the 2 hole w/27.5 they feel about the same on the bench but the car recovers super quick on landings. When not landing perfect it just soaks it up and goes. The rear felt a little slow on the bench so I went to 25wt. It obviously has a little less pack but I still like it better. My new ones are 1.55 holes which I will try with 25 as well. At LHR it helps A LOT with the larger jumps. I dont feel it affected traction o.e way or the other compared to 55s.
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Old 11-19-2012, 09:26 PM
  #2689  
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Originally Posted by OnRDPassion
I am going through my car again and i noticed some gear grinding in the gear box. I thought that maybe I was a little heavy on grease on the gears so i pulled it apart and built it again. I then put it together three times now and I still have gear grinding. Has anyone else run into this or have any ideas of what it might be? I also checked the gears and cleaned all of them to make sure there was nothing stuck in the teeth.
For clarification, is it in the diff, like when you hold one outdrive and spin the other? Or is it something with the gears?
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Old 11-19-2012, 09:43 PM
  #2690  
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Originally Posted by OnRDPassion
Checked the thrust assembly and it was fine. Any other ideas? Is it possible it might be a little tight and with a slow run on it, it will free up the tranny?
another thing to look at is make sure you do not over tighten the transmission case screws . it can cause it to bind the gears
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Old 11-19-2012, 10:19 PM
  #2691  
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Originally Posted by CanyonCarverR1
For clarification, is it in the diff, like when you hold one outdrive and spin the other? Or is it something with the gears?
It is in the gears. The diff is totally fine and smooth as butter, btw one of the easiest diffs I have built. I made sure the transmission case screws ware not over tightened checked to make sure all the bearings were seated correctly. Totally stumping me.
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Old 11-19-2012, 10:38 PM
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Originally Posted by OnRDPassion
It is in the gears. The diff is totally fine and smooth as butter, btw one of the easiest diffs I have built. I made sure the transmission case screws ware not over tightened checked to make sure all the bearings were seated correctly. Totally stumping me.
When I first built my car, there was some flashing on the inside of the middle gear. When the bearing was pressed in, it deformed the gear enough to cause some resistance. I know you've already had your car running, and this is a new problem. But check that your bearings are in straight. Its a longshot but you never know.
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Old 11-20-2012, 12:04 AM
  #2693  
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What if you took the transmission apart, take the alu topshaft out, put the diff halves back together but dont screw em down, then spin the diff?

Then retry with the topshaft in/spur out

Then retry with all three in but not bolted down.
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Old 11-20-2012, 02:45 AM
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i found that a little bit of white gear dust is the norm for my kyosho tranny. everytime i have pulled one apart there seems to be a light dust coating thats why i usually just replace all the gears and bearings during a rebuild.
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Old 11-20-2012, 05:47 AM
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Questions?? pistons

Originally Posted by Yeti AS3
Just on the rear. Comparing 55's w/27.5 to the 2 hole w/27.5 they feel about the same on the bench but the car recovers super quick on landings. When not landing perfect it just soaks it up and goes. The rear felt a little slow on the bench so I went to 25wt. It obviously has a little less pack but I still like it better. My new ones are 1.55 holes which I will try with 25 as well. At LHR it helps A LOT with the larger jumps. I dont feel it affected traction o.e way or the other compared to 55s.
Would'nt just going with a smaller "56" piston in the rear have the same effect?
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Old 11-20-2012, 06:41 AM
  #2696  
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Originally Posted by Yeti AS3
Just on the rear. Comparing 55's w/27.5 to the 2 hole w/27.5 they feel about the same on the bench but the car recovers super quick on landings. When not landing perfect it just soaks it up and goes. The rear felt a little slow on the bench so I went to 25wt. It obviously has a little less pack but I still like it better. My new ones are 1.55 holes which I will try with 25 as well. At LHR it helps A LOT with the larger jumps. I dont feel it affected traction o.e way or the other compared to 55s.
Yeti, I noticed in your signature Leisure Hours. This past weekend was my first time running there, should be in town for the next year or so. I didn't notice any other Kyosho's. If you get the chance in the next few weekends PM me, I'd like to pick your brain, Ron.
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Old 11-20-2012, 08:49 AM
  #2697  
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I have a set of blanks I want to try something different with. Does it really matter how exact the hole spacings are? I know it can easily be done with a ruler. I just want to get these Losi pistons out of my car. Sour grapes for spending as much as I did on my 22 to only still have it suck for me? you betcha!
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Old 11-20-2012, 08:56 AM
  #2698  
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Originally Posted by jpcopeland1
I have a set of blanks I want to try something different with. Does it really matter how exact the hole spacings are? I know it can easily be done with a ruler. I just want to get these Losi pistons out of my car.
John,
The Kyosho blank pistons have 6 divots already in them, which are evenly spaced. Pick your hole(s) opposite each other and drill them out with a 1.3mm (#55) bit and you are set. I will be there tomorrow if you need any other assistance. R'Dub
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Old 11-20-2012, 09:52 AM
  #2699  
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Originally Posted by OnRDPassion
I am going through my car again and i noticed some gear grinding in the gear box. I thought that maybe I was a little heavy on grease on the gears so i pulled it apart and built it again. I then put it together three times now and I still have gear grinding. Has anyone else run into this or have any ideas of what it might be? I also checked the gears and cleaned all of them to make sure there was nothing stuck in the teeth.
A) You aren't supposed to run grease in your gearbox.
B) does this grinding sound happen with the gearbox out of the car? or only when a pinion is running against your spur?
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Old 11-20-2012, 11:03 AM
  #2700  
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Originally Posted by desertracerdad
John,
The Kyosho blank pistons have 6 divots already in them, which are evenly spaced. Pick your hole(s) opposite each other and drill them out with a 1.3mm (#55) bit and you are set. I will be there tomorrow if you need any other assistance. R'Dub
I will be there tomorrow as well. Want to go the 4 hole 1.3mm route.
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