172LikesKyosho Ultima RB6 & RB6.6 Car Thread
12-21-2016, 08:46 AM - Wikipost
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10-15-2012, 08:27 PM
#1621
Use the black one. The white gear strips over time. You will have no problems with the black "sp" idle gear.
10-15-2012, 10:09 PM
#1625
The RB6... the game changer....
In short, I think this car is the absolute best of all the chassis out. It's durable like the 22, it turns on a dime like the B4, and it's stable and planted like the RB5. It's only downside, is it's cost. But with what we spend in gas and tires.. .what's an extra $100 for the kit? Nothing... totally worth it, and it's totally gorgeous.
10-16-2012, 01:42 AM
#1627
Hey Guys,
Got myself the RB6!! Now need some advise on a few things:-
I'm thinking of getting the following:-
1) For ESC: Vortex R10 Pro Brushless ESC (160A, 2-3S)
2) For Motor: Vortex VST PRO Modified 7.5
I'm slightly confuse on the ESC, they come in 90A and 160A. I started a thread asking about this and someone posted that if I'm using the modified motor I should go for the 160A esc. For those using Orion motor, what ESC are you guys using?
What other option parts I should get? Thinking of changing the rear hub to the alu one and maybe get the ceramic ball for the diff. Any advise appreciated.
sorry one more thing. Should I get the 150 or 110 mm sensor cable?
Got myself the RB6!! Now need some advise on a few things:-
I'm thinking of getting the following:-
1) For ESC: Vortex R10 Pro Brushless ESC (160A, 2-3S)
2) For Motor: Vortex VST PRO Modified 7.5
I'm slightly confuse on the ESC, they come in 90A and 160A. I started a thread asking about this and someone posted that if I'm using the modified motor I should go for the 160A esc. For those using Orion motor, what ESC are you guys using?
What other option parts I should get? Thinking of changing the rear hub to the alu one and maybe get the ceramic ball for the diff. Any advise appreciated.
sorry one more thing. Should I get the 150 or 110 mm sensor cable?
10-16-2012, 03:42 AM
#1628
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Get the larger amperage esc, aluminum rear hubs will drop in and are a good option, I would go with carbide balls in the diff and ceramic thrust balls, and the shorter the sensor wire the cleaner it will look. The 110 should be ok.
10-16-2012, 04:43 AM
#1630
Hey bro,
Thanks, nice to know that 110 sensor wire will fit in nicely. I will order that.
I don't quite understand this I would go with carbide balls in the diff and ceramic thrust balls. Are you saying I should mix the carbide and ceramic balls for the diff? Hope I'm not asking a stupid question.
Thanks, nice to know that 110 sensor wire will fit in nicely. I will order that.
I don't quite understand this I would go with carbide balls in the diff and ceramic thrust balls. Are you saying I should mix the carbide and ceramic balls for the diff? Hope I'm not asking a stupid question.
10-16-2012, 05:23 AM
#1631
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The carbide would be in the main diff in between the two rings. The ceramic would be in the thrust washer assembly on the outside of the rings. When looking at the manual it will make sense. No mixing!!! Lol
10-16-2012, 06:20 AM
#1633
Captain a while back I commented on the RB5 and asked how user friendly it would be for someone who's never built a car. Well the same question applies here? Is it build friendly? Can I run stock out of the box and have success? I'd rather spend the extra $$ on quality than just get by.
10-16-2012, 06:22 AM
#1634
K kits are as good as it gets quality wise. The manuals aren't the best, but they aren't bad either.
You've got us, and your LHS as good resources. The most important thing to remember is to not go crazy torquing down screws, as plastic does strip. Beyond that, just make sure everything moves freely (no binding, flashing, parts installed incorrectly, etc.).
You've got us, and your LHS as good resources. The most important thing to remember is to not go crazy torquing down screws, as plastic does strip. Beyond that, just make sure everything moves freely (no binding, flashing, parts installed incorrectly, etc.).
10-16-2012, 06:34 AM
#1635
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+1!