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Kyosho Ultima RB6 & RB6.6 Car Thread

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Kyosho Ultima RB6 & RB6.6 Car Thread

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Old 12-21-2016, 08:46 AM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech ForumsThread Wiki: Kyosho Ultima RB6 & RB6.6 Car Thread
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Last edit by: tobamiester
RB6.6 Kyosho America Product Page: http://www.kyoshoamerica.com/ULTIMA-...T_p_24505.html

RB6.6 Manual http://www.kyosho.com/jpn/support/in...A_RB6_6_IM.pdf

RB6.6 Kyosho Youtube https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vW_sR667utY

MSRP $639 MAP $399.99

-------------------------------
New RB6.6 parts (compared exploded views, prices and links are Kyosho America):

Chassis:
  1. Main chassis - UM731 - $125.99
  2. Side guards - UM732 - $9.99

Battery Holder:
  1. Battery plate - UM733 - $8.99
  2. Battery foam - UM741 - $7.99

Rear Bulkheads:
  1. MM3 and Laydown - UM740 - $9.99
    • MM3 bulkhead
    • Laydown bulkhead
    • Swaybar Holders

3 Gear Transmission (MM and RM):
  1. Transmission - UM734 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • plastic FR & RR suspension hangers

  2. Gear Cover - UM735 - $6.99

Laydown Transmission (3 and 4 gear possible):
  1. Transmission - UM736 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • required extra hardware
    • pastic FR suspension hanger

  2. 40T idler - UM737 - $6.99
  3. Motor plate - UM738 - $18.99
  4. Gear cover - UM739 - $6.99

Body:
  1. Blade body - UMB05 - $27.99

Optional Parts:
  1. Lightweigt Blade body - UMB05LW - $31.99
  2. Aluminum FR suspension hanger - UMW705B - $28.99 (may be able to file UMW705 to fit)
  3. Brass FR suspension hanger - UMW725B - $30.99 (looks more different than UMW725..someone confirm?)

Typical Upgrades for new RB6.6 Buyers

UMW701 Aluminum Steering Plate (RB6)
UMW702 Aluminum Crank Arm (RB6)
UMW704-0 V2 Aluminum Rear Hub Set(0°/RB6)
UMW705B Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RF/RB6.6) or brass UMW725B
UMW707 Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RR-Mid)

Nice to have:

UMW723 Aluminum Front Sus Block (Type B/10g/RB6/RT6/SC6).


Aftermarket Parts:

Front Wing: https://www.prolineracing.com/perfor...mount-alum-rb6

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Old 10-07-2012, 09:46 PM
  #1201  
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Originally Posted by jpcopeland1
they keep the rear of the car on the ground. I just think kyosho put the reds in the kit because that's what tebo, and we all have run since the big bore shocks came out on the RB5. everybody here switched to golds and everybody noticed improvement in some area of the driving experience of the car. mine was the rear end lifting off the ground slightly in the bumpy bits with the Japanese setup, and pretty thick oils.
Did you have to compensate up front for on power steering/added weight transfer?
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Old 10-07-2012, 10:03 PM
  #1202  
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Loving the car so far. I put it through the ringer this weekend on a tight technical track and a loose dry track outdoors. I did break the front toe block in the rear in practice the first couple times on the track but then put an aluminum one and no issues. My buddy broke a rear ball cup off in the main with his. Other than that a very good first impression of the buggy. The smoothest steering buggy I've driven so far. The jumping couldn't be easier. I wish I had some .5 hubs for the outdoor track as I was a little loose.

I used Kyo Pink springs front rear and loved it on the indoor technical track. The car was fantastic through every part I just never did every part fantastic in the same lap, lol. I drive on several "crappy" tracks so never is any buggy really "dialed" where we race but this one has all the potential one could hope for.
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Old 10-07-2012, 10:23 PM
  #1203  
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Wiring is done, paint is tomorrow and Tuesday, testing is Wednesday, Northwest Gold Cup is Fri-Sun. Can't wait.

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Old 10-07-2012, 11:21 PM
  #1204  
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Originally Posted by silvalis
Did you have to compensate up front for on power steering/added weight transfer?
No, just changed the springs. Did not change on-power steering from what I felt. Reds just feel too stiff on this car. I know the other drivers I know who have the car are testing the WTS Orion batteries in it now to find optimal balance. I have made one change from the Japanese setup that was suggested and that was to add another 1mm ball stud washer on the rear inner ball stud to lower the roll center. Will have to see what that does to it.
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Old 10-07-2012, 11:22 PM
  #1205  
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Originally Posted by Cpt.America
Wiring is done, paint is tomorrow and Tuesday, testing is Wednesday, Northwest Gold Cup is Fri-Sun. Can't wait.

Looking very nice there.
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Old 10-08-2012, 03:49 AM
  #1206  
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Originally Posted by fastestwon
raced today at cds second race on the car it was a lot better today with the shorty pack and some small changes i did with the setup . last week was TQ and won with a time of 23 in 7:11 and this week TQ and won with a time of 23 in 7:05 was a lot faster on rotation was great on the very tight track . will have the race video up soon . if anybody wants a good indoor clay tight track setup i can share .
here is the race video

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=c90cb...ature=youtu.be
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Old 10-08-2012, 06:11 AM
  #1207  
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Me and another local found that if you run 0's instead of .5's the car rotates better. And run the 1 hole rear rb5 arms and not the rb6 ones
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Old 10-08-2012, 06:13 AM
  #1208  
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Originally Posted by X God
About to order a RB6, Could someone give me as list of hop up parts needed or is the kit good out of the box. A local that has a RB6 put the um521-1 arms on it instead of the kit arms. Didn't get to ask him why.
Who did that Lou
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Old 10-08-2012, 06:38 AM
  #1209  
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Originally Posted by Nitronut3
Me and another local found that if you run 0's instead of .5's the car rotates better. And run the 1 hole rear rb5 arms and not the rb6 ones
has anyone run the 1hole RB6 arms? (flipped?)

in the 1st action shots you can see Tebo is running the car with them, i'm sure this is before he mounted the RB5 arms, i'm starting my car off this way.
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Old 10-08-2012, 07:48 AM
  #1210  
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Originally Posted by jpcopeland1
Have you tried Gold springs in the rear, or are you still running red? I noticed with Red springs in the rear the back of my car would actually hop just a tad off the track and lose contact in the more bumpy areas. Changed to gold and that went away and traction came back. Only change I have made to the car from the Kyosho Japan starting setup.
I found the same. I prefer the white springs over gold on a low/med bite track. The reds were too bouncy and the golds were too soft. What pistons are you using? I've only tired 5 hole Kyosho springs but plan on experimenting with some losi pistons this week.
I'll also mention during practice last week, we ran the track dry which was high bite, I put on yellow springs in the rear and 0 degree hubs; my car was unstoppable. I am very pleased with this car to say the least.
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Old 10-08-2012, 08:42 AM
  #1211  
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Originally Posted by Cpt.America
Wiring is done, paint is tomorrow and Tuesday, testing is Wednesday, Northwest Gold Cup is Fri-Sun. Can't wait.

Love the attention to detail.

I know the 22 and RB6 are 2 different animals, but I have been noticing folks have been mounting the battery (fullsize) a lot more forward than what can be done in the 22. The 22 wheelbase is 286mm and RB6 is 285mm.

Curious the results with this configuration. Lot of steering? Less traction?
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Old 10-08-2012, 08:46 AM
  #1212  
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Originally Posted by Entr0phy
I found the same. I prefer the white springs over gold on a low/med bite track. The reds were too bouncy and the golds were too soft. What pistons are you using? I've only tired 5 hole Kyosho springs but plan on experimenting with some losi pistons this week.
I'll also mention during practice last week, we ran the track dry which was high bite, I put on yellow springs in the rear and 0 degree hubs; my car was unstoppable. I am very pleased with this car to say the least.
Right now I have the stock K pistons on the car. Will also try Losi pistons as well with 32.5 front 30 rear losi oils. The Japanese setup sheets says to run either red/or yellow rear springs, might have to get a set of yellows and check them out. Saw something funny on the B4.1 thread. One guy said they were as good as the Kyosho's. Problem is I built a set of AE big bores and with them using the same O-rings they felt just as crappy and v2's with stock rings.... Can I laugh really hard right now? yes! LOL...... Will be a cold day in hell when any AE shock comes close to being as good as a kyosho shock.
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Old 10-08-2012, 08:55 AM
  #1213  
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Originally Posted by fastestwon
Still don't get after all these years people still like Losi cars, from that race is too blatant to be almost comical how much steering that car does not have. Setup? most likely, but still that 22 was all over that tight track.
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Old 10-08-2012, 08:56 AM
  #1214  
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Originally Posted by fastestwon
Still waiting on setup *hint*hint*
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Old 10-08-2012, 09:06 AM
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Originally Posted by jpcopeland1
Still don't get after all these years people still like Losi cars, from that race is too blatant to be almost comical how much steering that car does not have. Setup? most likely, but still that 22 was all over that tight track.
Just seen in your previous post that you want to try losi piston in your
K shocks but cant believe people like losi cars? If you want to run 55 pistons then buy the Kyosho blank pistons and custom drill them to 4 x 55 holes.

Part number for Kyosho blank pistons: W5303-08
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